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Old 02-17-2013, 03:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Who's done their own P&P?

How many of you have done your own port & polish work? In trying to save some coin I have decided to do my own on my XX. It may not flow as much as an expensive cnc job from a pro, but I got to tell ya that I'm glad I'm doing it. Its a lot of fun! I'm using a dremel with the flex shaft attachment. Remove some material, then stick my finger in to feel the contour. Then continue on. Lots of fingering!
A lot of it is common sense, but if anyone wants to share pointers or tips feel free.
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2008 Honda TRX710XX ~SOLD~
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This might help... I cant imagine it being much different.

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2009 Raptor 700R SE - Mods: Runkind light covers and speed limiter blue wire cut

Can now provide most manuals for most makes and models and years. Send me an email at fufner75@gmail.com BE SPECIFIC: YEAR/MAKE/MODEL add Hiya Frenchie in your email so i know your from this forum. My manuals galore thread http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=95852
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I wouldn't attempt it.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Heres another thread discussion i read:

Did you polish the intake side?

-No ive just honed it, your not ment to polish it past were the injectors shoot into the head as the rough surface is meant to incourage turbulance which inturn mixes the fuel with air.....so im told.

Did you port match the intake and exhaust manifolds, and knife edge the ports there is a whole list of shit you can do.. but make everything matched and you should see some decent gains.

-Ive been reading the book on engine blueprinting and alsoo cylinder head porting principles so inspired me to do my own..its not really ported out i was just looking to improve the efficiency of the ports not sure wether ive said it already but it was saying that turbo cars respond better to smaller faster velocity ports so i didnt want to remove too much material. Heres what ive done so far..ive picked up another head too which im going to measure the caspacity of the ports and use latex to check port shape..will do a write up soon

step one: basic degrease of the head..valves removed, cleaned using 'gunk'

step two: hard to remove deposits were removed with a dremel and a pannel flap..also 80 gritt paper proved pretty useful on the end of the finger.

step three: once the majority of the crap was removed from the exhaust ports i just started honing them out with the pannel flap wheel..moving in and out radiusing the port..removing obsticles in the way. The ridge between the port opening and the valve has been smoothed-turning a kink into a smooth semi circle to improve gas flow. its suprising how much material i did remove judging by wat was left on the desk..lol

step four: well the dremel with the sanding wheel gave a good enough finish but for the exhaust ports to prevent carbon build up i thought it was a good idea to mirror polish the runners..excessive i know but because im learning i though why not as i was beginning to feel more confident with the tool. from 250-400-800-1000-1500 i rubbed the ports smooth by hand..took a month of saturdays lol..you know when they good as they become super smooth and a dull satin shine.

step five: autosol!! wicked polishing product..loaded up on a polishing wheel on the dremel mirrors the ports quickly and then buffed by hand.

Warning; i used masking tape wrapped tightly around the chuck of the rotary tool to prevent damaging the valve seats when cleaning the bowls..pannel flap wheel was ideal for this again, slowly massaging the runners with the tool with a steady pressure.

I wasnt to bothered about removing loads of material and didnt want to go into the water channels so by following the runners shape has stayed uniform

once ive chosen my manis il do a better write up with port matching and also replacing the valve stem seals.

Im confused im also in the process of pnp my d15b2 head and still debating on what is better if i should match the intake manifold side and port and polish it but have also read not to polish the intake sideso whats best?

Dont polish the intake manifold side the goal is to have mirror smooth exhaust ports a polished combustion chamber and just a ported intake ports like he said it helps keep the fuel mixed with the air.


Hope all this helps you out!
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2009 Raptor 700R SE - Mods: Runkind light covers and speed limiter blue wire cut

Can now provide most manuals for most makes and models and years. Send me an email at fufner75@gmail.com BE SPECIFIC: YEAR/MAKE/MODEL add Hiya Frenchie in your email so i know your from this forum. My manuals galore thread http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=95852
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easystreet View Post
How many of you have done your own port & polish work? In trying to save some coin I have decided to do my own on my XX. It may not flow as much as an expensive cnc job from a pro, but I got to tell ya that I'm glad I'm doing it. Its a lot of fun! I'm using a dremel with the flex shaft attachment. Remove some material, then stick my finger in to feel the contour. Then continue on. Lots of fingering!
A lot of it is common sense, but if anyone wants to share pointers or tips feel free.
I do my own porting and polishing, I use sandpaper........
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by willykiller View Post
I do my own porting and polishing, I use sandpaper........
By hand with paper, or sandpaper on a mandrel or drum wheel?

I started out using a grinding stone, but it clogged quickly with aluminum. Have done the rest with the dremel sanding drum. The tight nooks I used a small carbide cutter to just take off the flash mainly. I have been working the bit around the port which leaves a perpendicular scrape to direction of flow. When I think I have the desired contour I then go in by hand with sand paper and stroke in and out. It polishes the surface and shows any humps or divets real well. Then I correct those. Once I got where I wanted, I went back in with a finer sand drum and did perpendicular runs again on the intake to prevent fuel condensation. Have yet to do the exhaust, but I'm gonna do it to a polished surface.
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2009 Raptor 727 ~SOLD~
+5mm stroker,CP 11:1, Hotcam #3, P&P,+3 Throttle body,FCI intake,Barker duals ,PCV,Bill Ballance nerfs ,GYTR heel guards,Pro Armor bumper,ITP Sand Star fronts,Skat Trak Extremes,Dyno tuned 62.5hp

2008 Honda TRX710XX ~SOLD~
CCP stabailizer,ProArmor nerfs,Kenda Kutters,+3 stroker, CP 11:1, Velocity intake, P&P, HC3, Barker pipe, PCV, Motowoz shocks

2013 Polaris Sportsman 850 Touring
2007 Yamaha Raptor
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I wouldn't attempt it.
I used to think this was a job for an expert and still would if I was competing or felt the need to squeeze out every ounce. Wanted to try it myself on my trail bike. Very fun to do. Not sure why builders charge so much for it.
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2009 Raptor 727 ~SOLD~
+5mm stroker,CP 11:1, Hotcam #3, P&P,+3 Throttle body,FCI intake,Barker duals ,PCV,Bill Ballance nerfs ,GYTR heel guards,Pro Armor bumper,ITP Sand Star fronts,Skat Trak Extremes,Dyno tuned 62.5hp

2008 Honda TRX710XX ~SOLD~
CCP stabailizer,ProArmor nerfs,Kenda Kutters,+3 stroker, CP 11:1, Velocity intake, P&P, HC3, Barker pipe, PCV, Motowoz shocks

2013 Polaris Sportsman 850 Touring
2007 Yamaha Raptor
ITP GNCC tires on ITP SS112 wheels, GYTR pipe
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the links Frenchie. I had found some similar on youtube that were also done on car motors. Not to much available on a single cylinder quad head, especially the XX.

By design I think Honda did a good flow for the intake side. Its fairly large and direct. The exhaust side on the other hand is terrible. Its very tight, small, and one of the valves has a strong angle to get out. They also merge instead of being dual port. I have a feeling that the exhaust side of the head is the biggest limiter on this motor.

Would be awesome if somebody would mill an entire different head for these to over come that flaw.
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2009 Raptor 727 ~SOLD~
+5mm stroker,CP 11:1, Hotcam #3, P&P,+3 Throttle body,FCI intake,Barker duals ,PCV,Bill Ballance nerfs ,GYTR heel guards,Pro Armor bumper,ITP Sand Star fronts,Skat Trak Extremes,Dyno tuned 62.5hp

2008 Honda TRX710XX ~SOLD~
CCP stabailizer,ProArmor nerfs,Kenda Kutters,+3 stroker, CP 11:1, Velocity intake, P&P, HC3, Barker pipe, PCV, Motowoz shocks

2013 Polaris Sportsman 850 Touring
2007 Yamaha Raptor
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It can be done but can you imagine the cost of something like that and hours of cnc with codes and codes entered. I say it can be done but the price alone would sway you.
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2009 Raptor 700R SE - Mods: Runkind light covers and speed limiter blue wire cut

Can now provide most manuals for most makes and models and years. Send me an email at fufner75@gmail.com BE SPECIFIC: YEAR/MAKE/MODEL add Hiya Frenchie in your email so i know your from this forum. My manuals galore thread http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=95852
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easystreet View Post
By hand with paper, or sandpaper on a mandrel or drum wheel?
I use a long reach, air powered, die grinder, with a 1/4 inch long reach shank using emery clotch, I rough cut sligtly, and I mean slightly with a carbide burr designed to cut aluminum. I remove roughly 50% of what I want with the burr and the rest with emery cloth. I also sometimes use my mill to rough cut the port......
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