Wheel offset? - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Wheel offset?

I'm doing a frame up rebuild on an 05 660.
I started with a frame, engine, lots of parts...and no wheels.
I want to run stock size tires, front and rear.
I'll be using an adjustable axle.
I trail ride, and only want to be +1" per side.
The axle will do that fine.
For the front, I was planning on 1" wheel spacers.
My question is; can I buy front wheels that are offset/sit out 1" wider, and eliminate the need for a spacer?
Could anyone post the stock front/rear wheel sizes and offsets please?
I have a Yamaha service manual, but that info isn't listed anywhere.
I also haven't been able to find the info on the forum.
Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 12:38 PM
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Yes you can get just about any off set wheel size you could need. Factory off set is 3/2. 3" on the inside 2" on the outside for a grand total of a 5" wide front rim. You can also flip the factory wheels if you want to install a flush valve stem. That way when its on the inside of the rim it doesn't hit or get tore off by the brake caliper. They are not real handy for filling tires up but you could always drill a new hole on the new outside part and install a regular valve stem. Then you would just be using the flush mount valve stem to plug the hole.

The down side to adding width outside of the spindle is it gives rocks, roots, and ruts more leverage back on your steering system. Much like using a long piece of pipe on a wrench / breaker bar on a tight bolt. This will increase the force required to turn the bars, and also give you stronger jolts back in on the bars when you hit bumps, ruts, roots, and rocks. This is called bump steer. This is why you see a lot of racers use a 4/1 off set wheel. It puts more tire on the inside so there is less leverage on the steering system. Then they usually make up the extra narrow width with 3+ a arms instead of +2's.

In my opinion the best cheapest way to gain width would be a wideing kit. It bolts on to the factory suspension mounts and moves all the new mounting points farther out. If your dead set on only going +1 and buying new wheels you could also take advantage of the 4/1 off set and get a +2" wide kit then bring the width down to a +1 by using the 4/1 off set wheel.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 02:14 PM
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03 has good advice. I would advise against any wheel that goes out 4in. I just went thru that with 1/4 offset. It was hard to steer a straight line and lots of bump steer. I now have 2/3 and it's much better. AM arms or A-Arm extenders would be your best choice.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, and I understand bump steer.
The widening kit isn't what I'm looking for.
I have new tie rods, ends, ball joints, and Ricky Stator adjustable stock length upper A-arms. +2" A-arms aren't in my plans right now either.
I think I'll just use stock size wheel and 1" spacer, or maybe the 2/3 offset (opposite stock).
If I had stock wheels, I'de flip the fronts.
I remember doing that on the Warriors(2nd valve stem).
Do you know the stock rear wheel size?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 07:40 AM
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Stock rims are about 1.5" / 3" in. I run 2" out 3". Didn't see much difference. Dontvrun spacers on front. Your bump steer starts to get very bad. Go wider, not sure why people are scared to go more then an inch per side. I'm 50" wide and fit in right stuff. If you put on 400ex rear hubs you can get your rear end about 46" or so I'm stock axle. Yfz450 front shocks will lower your front a little for a wider foot print.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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My friend's 700 is +3, and I can scrape through the trails on it.
I'm not against going wider, and +2" overall is where I want to be.
I already have yfz 450 shocks on the front.
This set also does Not lower the front.
I had read that the 04-06 or 08 450 shocks are shorter. Not these.
Identical length as stock 660 front shocks.
The stock rear link was also symetrical, meaning it couldn't be flipped and lowered.
I bought an adjustable link.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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I also understand bump steer, and I've never seen it be a problem with +1" per side.
Even junk shock Warriors with the front wheels flipped aren't bad.
If the rest of the alignment is good, and tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings aren't worn, then +1" is ok for me.
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