Ive searched and cant find what i need.
I need a good place to start on Jet size, pilot size, and air screw settings for :
Stock 660, K/n filter, no snorkel, scorpion slip on, Stock needles at 3rd clip...at about 850-900ft ASL
I would guess i could bump the mains to about 155(R?)/160(L?) (mikuni sizes?), but i have NO clue about my pilot jets
And im also guessing 3 turns on the R, and 2.75 turns on the L air screws
Am i close?
ok, i got all my parts installed, but it spits and sputters at low rpm's. just starting out normal in 1st gear i dont notice it very much. but if i race someone and start out in 2nd, about half the time it will cut out when i drop the clutch. the engine will stay running, but i have no power. same goes if i am playing in the sand. if i slow down while in 2nd, then crack the throttle to spin around, if the engine is running slow, sometimes it will just sputter around. i installed a k&n/proflow filter setup, no airbox lid, and sparks big core. went with a gytr jet kit. installed 165/170 mains, 25 pilots, gytr needles with clip on 3rd (middle) notch. i couldnt get it to run worth a shit with the a/f screws out 2.5 -3 turns like everyone else under 3000 ft is doing. i ended up going all the way to 1.5 turns out on both carbs. seems to run fine now, other than the problems i just told you about. spark plug looks pretty good. mayyyybe a hair lean. also, on decel. it will backfire a little bit. not alot, but enough to bug a guy.
ANY SUGGESTIONS? do i need to bump up to 27.5 pilots and readjust the a/f screws? move the needle clips to a different notch on the needle?
2005 719 trail beater
Barker +4 crank/rod, 102mm 11:1 CP, Stage 3 Hotcam, KW springs, Ferrea valves, 39mm FCR's, ported by CSR
Monster dual exhaust ceramic coated black
Hinson clutch & billet basket
RPM Dominator II +4 axle, homemade +2 swinger, Elka shock & link customized by Wiigstyle Racing
ASR +2 a-arms, raptor 700 shocks
ITP SS112 wheels w/ Maxxis Razr II's
Trail Tech Vapor
Pro Aluminum nerfs
Pro Design shifter
PRM skid plates
6000K HIDs in stock headlights
Oregon coast. 165/170 mains,27.5 pilots,dyno jet needles third clip from top with factory washer and plastic spacer.2 1/2 out on fuel screws,This was on raptor with pro-flow intake no lid,Yosh full exhaust,big gun ignition,17 oz trail tech lightened flywheel and 12/43 gearing.Stock internals.
Location: Ashland, WI
Elevation: 823ft. ASL
Exhaust: Yoshimura RS3 Comp Full Exhaust with quiet core spark arrestor
Intake: Modquad pro-flow kit, K&N filter with Outerwears pre-filter, no lid
Jet kit: DynoJet Stage 2 kit - DJ springs and needles and mains
Needles: 3rd clip
Pilots: 27.5 (mikuni)
Mixture: 2.5 turns out
Runs great for me, I pulled out the quiet core and OMG!! What a difference in sound! I'm not sure If I need to do anything with the mixture screws with the core out. I have another quiet core, I think I'm going to chop it in half and see how that works. As much as I would love to run with the core out, I would be begging for a ticket.
2004 660R<br />Maxxis Razr2 Tires<br />ITP C-Series Sport Wheels<br />G-Force Extended Axle<br />Hydrodynamics USA +2 A-Arms<br />YFZ 450 Front Shocks<br />Streamline Front Brake Lines<br />Stainless Warning Labels<br />Acerbis Handguards<br />GYTR Chassis Skidplate<br />Yoshimura RS-3 Full Exhaust <br />Modquad Air Flow System with K&N Filte
I have a 2003 stock motor & I put a modquad with a K & N Filter, RS-3 full yoshi exhaust, and DJ Jets. I wanted to do the Clear Tube Method. I have read through MANY posts and really didn't see anything, but can anyone give me a good starting point for jets & Pilot? Should I rejet and then do the clear tube or is doing both at the same time fine?