More Top Speed - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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More Top Speed

Im back at it again... I have Raptor with 686 bore, 11:1 comp, stage 2 hot cam, open metal air box with UNI filter, LRD full exhaust, jetted. My sprocket set up is 14 front and 40 rear, with 20 rear tires and 23 in the front. Well I used the GPS speedometer on my phone and it topped out at 78 which is pretty week compared to my Quadzilla that was able to tackle 91 and still was pulling but I ran out of room. I'm trying to at least get my Raptor into mid to high 80s. It seemed to pull pretty good until I went to 5th and it just died down. What would be the best sprocket setup to achieve that goal? What other mods could I get? Would a K&N filter be better than the UNI?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 07:33 PM
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I would go 15 front 38 rear. When u say it died in 5th do you mean it bogged down?
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, it just stopped picking up and wouldnt gain any speed.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 07:45 PM
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Is there a 5th gear speed limiter on the 660 like the 700, IDK?

2007 RAPTOR 700, SAND QUAD, 66HP @ OCP. CUERVO +1 HEAD, HDD 5050, 11:1 CP, +5 HR, PC5, DMC FORCE 4, +2 TB, FCI, LONE STAR XC +1, HD TIE RODS, CCP, WORKS, JOKERS +1 STEM, RDZ CHAIN TENSIONER, ASV, +2 1/2 FACTORY SWINGARM, +4 ALBA AXLE, +2 REAR HUBS, DR.D, ODI, 1 1/8 CARBON BARS, DG BUMPER. GYTR: BRAKE LEVER, SHIFT LEVER, NERF BARS, HEAL GUARDS. BILLET: GAS CAP, BRAKE COVER, THROTTLE LEVER, OIL DIPSTICK, BAR MOUNTS. LED LIGHTS, FLUIDYNE RADIATOR, GRIPPER SEAT, 3 OHM COIL, PLUG WIRE MOD. 1.6 CAP
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 08:34 PM
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Grind every other tooth of the tone wheel that the speed sensor reads. The raptor has a top speed limiter.

2003 Limited Edition Raptor
Kenz 720cc 11:1 stroker, +1 valves, Mega Cycle X-4 Cam, Sparks 6x Big Core, Keihin 35mm FCR's. 158 mains, 52 pilots, fuel screws 2 turns out.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Damn, I never knew that. Do I have to take the clutch cover off to get to it? Wish I could just unplug the crap.

Last edited by marcman804; 03-22-2016 at 06:01 AM.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcman804 View Post
Damn, I never knew that. Do I have to take the clutch cover off to get to it? Wish I could just unplug the crap.
You need to remove the clutch cover. The reluctor wheel is attached to the output shaft. I always removed all the teeth except two 180 degrees apart. You can not just unplug it. You will lose power by unplugging it. Removing the teeth fools the CDI into thinking you are driving slower then you really are and you will gain lots of top speed.


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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Man I wish I would have known this sooner, I just had my clutch replaced last month. If I were to do this myself where would I find instructions on getting this done? Do I just pull the clutch cover off, remove the relucter, grind them down and then put it back?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 01:59 PM
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I doubt you have the power to reach the 90's even if you had the gearing.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm sure it has a lot more in it the way it was pulling up until 5th gear, felt like I had stop pushing the throttle. Not saying it would hit 90 but sheesh, should have more potential than what it maxed out at.

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I doubt you have the power to reach the 90's even if you had the gearing.
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