will only push start and runs rough - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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will only push start and runs rough

Have a 05 660 that when I turn key on I get nothing. When I try to jump still nothing, no lights, will not crank. The only way it runs if it is push started and the it runs rough, big hesitation, sputters but seems to run "better" at higher RPM's. Noticed from time to time the engine comes on when its running but does not stay on. Battery is 6 months old and connection are clean and solid.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 01:25 PM
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Trickle charge it for a couple days, and look into adjusting the valves on your bike.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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more on original post. Quad has aftermarket exhaust, air box mod, jetted and the reverse limiter green/white ground, still has PB wire intact. Left camp at 4000' went to 8000' all was good going up but noticed sputtering etc. thought it was normal because the jetting I have is for lower elevation and the other carbed machines were acting the same way. On the way down did not get better, still ran rough, but started each time. Got back to camp had lunch, went to start and nothing no lights etc. hooked jumper cables and same nothing. Bumped started but ran like at 8000', sputter hesitation sometimes run good for couple seconds. Engine light would come on and off for 2 seconds never stay on. Each time I turned off would have to bump start. Would idle ok, a little rough sputter ect. while giving throttle and get "better" at higher rpm range. Have ridden there one time before and thought the jetting was off but nothing this bad.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 06:50 PM
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I agree, trickle/float charge for a few days more if possible. Adjust your valves, and check your main fuse for dirty/corroded connections.

2007 RAPTOR 700, SAND QUAD, 66HP @ OCP. CUERVO +1 HEAD, HDD 5050, 11:1 CP, +5 HR, PC5, DMC FORCE 4, +2 TB, FCI, LONE STAR XC +1, HD TIE RODS, CCP, WORKS, JOKERS +1 STEM, RDZ CHAIN TENSIONER, ASV, +2 1/2 FACTORY SWINGARM, +4 ALBA AXLE, +2 REAR HUBS, DR.D, ODI, 1 1/8 CARBON BARS, DG BUMPER. GYTR: BRAKE LEVER, SHIFT LEVER, NERF BARS, HEAL GUARDS. BILLET: GAS CAP, BRAKE COVER, THROTTLE LEVER, OIL DIPSTICK, BAR MOUNTS. LED LIGHTS, FLUIDYNE RADIATOR, GRIPPER SEAT, 3 OHM COIL, PLUG WIRE MOD. 1.6 CAP
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans View Post
Noticed from time to time the engine comes on when its running but does not stay on.
What does this mean?

The starter comes on when the engine is running?

2003 Limited Edition Raptor
Kenz 720cc 11:1 stroker, +1 valves, Mega Cycle X-4 Cam, Sparks 6x Big Core, Keihin 35mm FCR's. 158 mains, 52 pilots, fuel screws 2 turns out.

97 Banshee
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2016, 12:58 AM
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Fuse should have nothing to do with running once it's started.

Gonna guess the charging system has died. Get it running then measure battery voltage while well above idle.

If it's not at least 13.5 VDC either the stator, rec/reg or wiring between has an issue... or your battery has a multi cell short (not as likely).

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'02 Honda 400ex, DiamondJ +3 A-arm widener, Lonestar anti-vibe
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2016, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. Should I try the PB disconnect also. And not the starter but the engine light will come on then go off etc.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2016, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadManiac View Post
Fuse should have nothing to do with running once it's started.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
I agree, trickle/float charge for a few days more if possible. Adjust your valves, and check your main fuse for dirty/corroded connections.



My idea on the fuse being corroded or even loose could cause intermittent power when riding . It's a easy check, and eliminate it as a problem

I think we are all in a agreement that it's a battery/power problem. As said, charge your battery and use your meter to test it and your stator/ regulator charging system.

2007 RAPTOR 700, SAND QUAD, 66HP @ OCP. CUERVO +1 HEAD, HDD 5050, 11:1 CP, +5 HR, PC5, DMC FORCE 4, +2 TB, FCI, LONE STAR XC +1, HD TIE RODS, CCP, WORKS, JOKERS +1 STEM, RDZ CHAIN TENSIONER, ASV, +2 1/2 FACTORY SWINGARM, +4 ALBA AXLE, +2 REAR HUBS, DR.D, ODI, 1 1/8 CARBON BARS, DG BUMPER. GYTR: BRAKE LEVER, SHIFT LEVER, NERF BARS, HEAL GUARDS. BILLET: GAS CAP, BRAKE COVER, THROTTLE LEVER, OIL DIPSTICK, BAR MOUNTS. LED LIGHTS, FLUIDYNE RADIATOR, GRIPPER SEAT, 3 OHM COIL, PLUG WIRE MOD. 1.6 CAP

Last edited by DEZPERADO; 09-27-2016 at 05:06 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2016, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
My idea on the fuse being corroded or even loose could cause intermittent power when riding
Sure, check it... can't hurt. But it WON'T cause ANY issues while the engine is running.

Try it yourself, Dez - pull the fuse while the engine is running - nothing happens, engine still runs! It just won't start again once the engine has been stopped. If the engine is running and the charging system is working properly, 12V is supplied to the CDI from the Rec/Reg which is AFTER the fuse.

Measure the battery voltage while running as suggested, Cevans - this will tell us what's going on and what to check next. Also do what Cammy and Dez suggest and fully charge your battery with a plug-in charger - we have to eliminate a bad battery as a possibility (although it sure doesn't sound like the issue from your descriptions).

Also, there is no 'Engine' light - the over temp light is supposed to come on when you press the start button as a bulb check. Is this the light you are describing? This tells you that you have at least enough energy stored in your battery to light up the bulb (which doesn't need much).

The fact (from your symptom descriptions) that this problem got worse as you rode more points, to me, that the battery is not charging.

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'02 Honda 400ex, DiamondJ +3 A-arm widener, Lonestar anti-vibe
New Toy: '16 RZR XP4 1000 Turbo

Last edited by QuadManiac; 09-27-2016 at 06:03 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 12:54 AM
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I have delt with burnt up charging coils in a stator. You have a nice charged up battery everything is nice. Then as the day goes on depending on how much you start it, it keeps cranking slower and slower until it wont start on its own. You can still pull start it cause there is enough voltage to run the ignition system but it eventually wouldn't start on its own. The headlights gradually dimmed as the night went on.

Got the raptor home and did the test quadman described. Voltage was well below 13 volts while reving. Tooke the stator cover off to find burn up charging coils.

2003 Limited Edition Raptor
Kenz 720cc 11:1 stroker, +1 valves, Mega Cycle X-4 Cam, Sparks 6x Big Core, Keihin 35mm FCR's. 158 mains, 52 pilots, fuel screws 2 turns out.

97 Banshee
F.A.S.T. Dune Ported 4mill, CPI Inframes, Keihin PWK33's, Direct Drive Lockup. 158 mians, CEL needles second clip, #48 pilots, air scews 2.0 turns out.
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