Oil Change *For the last time* - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-16-2006, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Oil Change *For the last time*

I wish the Oil Change topic could have been a sticky thread since I've seen numerous threads out there. For all those who might be confused about doing this maitenance, this should solve the problem.

On all Yamaha Raptor 660's

(1) Trust the manual, If you haven't purchased one you can download it from this forum.

(2) Remove both oil drain bolts, thats right there is TWO.
A. The First one is located next to the shifter linkage on the left hand side of the ATV. You should have to remove the engine skid plate. This bolt will allow the oil from the crank case to drain and should require a 17mm wrench or socket.
B. The Second one is located at the bottom of the oil tank. The oil tank is normally black in color and located in front of the engine attached to the frame. On the oil tank you will find the oil dip stick which is located on the top right side of the oil tank. This bolt will allow the oil from the oil tank to drain and should require a 15mm wrench or socket.

(3) After removing these Two bolts allow for the oil to drain completely. Rock it, roll it or just allow the ATV to drain on a level surface. After you are satisfied replace both bolts, I hand tighten them to my satisfaction but the manual will recommend 22ft lbs on the crank case bolt and 18ft lbs for the oil tank.

(4) If you are replacing the oil filter continue with this following step. If not skip and continue to step 5. The oil filter is located on the right side of the ATV. Most of the time you can hand remove these but an oil filter wrench will do the trick just fine. This filter is a bit smaller than normal car filters so an adjustable filter wrench is your best bet. Make sure the old filter gasket comes off with the old filter. Double gasketing a filter is very bad and could cause future problems. Not much oil will flow from this area since it only holds .2 US qts. When installing the new filter make sure the gasket is seated in the filter groove and apply a light coating of fresh oil to the gasket and tighten er' down. Again hand tightening is acceptable yet 12ft lbs is recommended.

(5) All the oil is out, Both bolts are replaced and tight, Oil Filter is replaced (maybe) and tightened down. Now to add oil. But you may have some questions.

A. How Much Oil? First off let me say that every engine is not the same! You will have to treat your ATV like an individual. They are all close but depending on how owners care for thier ATV's and just random variables can make these numbers change. You should purchase 3 US qts to be safe.
B. Which Oil Brand? You make the choice but YAMALUBE 4 is the easiest choice. I like the AMSOil but thats just my choice.
C. Which Weight of OIL? Refering to the manual, 30degrees F to 120degrees F use 20W40, 10degrees F to 95degrees F use 10W30, Under 30degrees F use 5W30 but at this stage you should be running the SNOWMOBILE! Basically the hotter the weather the thicker the oil and the colder the weather the thinner the oil.

You add oil to only one place, the OIL Tank! Start with adding 1.75 US qts. You'll need more but this is your starting point. After adding this amount start er' up. Run it for 10 - 20 seconds giving it a few revs of the engine but be gentle. STOP the engine and allow the oil to settle. Air bubbles can give you a bad reading and since oil is thick, waiting a minute or so to check the oil level is the best bet. Don't RUSH! Check the dip stick and you may or may not find the oil level on the bottom ot the stick. Now here is the most challenging task of this maitenance action. I don't care if you add and check 10 times, it should only take 2-4 but keep the following thing in mind. After you add and start you must allow the oil to settle. The total addition of oil should be between 2 US qts and 2.5 US qts.

(6) Got the oil to the proper level, Good. Wipe down any oil spilt and replace the engine skid plate. The only other two things to watch out for is not to lose the o-ring on the oil tank dipstick and don't burn your arm on the exhaust, I did my first time.

I hope this helps out. Check your oil every other ride and change when needed. Cheep and easy maitenance and will extend the life of your ATV. Happy Mudding!
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J C Merk<br /><br />2001 Raptor 660<br />2001 SkiDoo Mach Z Tech Plus<br /><br />Take time to thread lock all your Mods, having to replace them instead of investing in something new just sucks!
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post #2 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 10:25 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Where can you pick up the oil?

-Paul<br /><br />01 Raptor 660<br />-k&amp;n pro intake<br />-27.5 Pilots 160/165 Mains<br />05 Raptor 660
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post #3 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-15-2006, 08:53 AM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

you can pick up the oil at any Yahama dealer parts department or you can pick up at any ATV performance shop.

excellent thread - should be sticky

2005 Raptor 660<br />Trinity Stage IV exhaust<br />DynoJet jet kit<br />ProDesigns air box<br />Barnett Dirt Claw Clutch<br />12t front sprocket<br />One Industries Graphics w/ seat cover<br />AC Racing Front Bumper<br />Billet plates, handlebar clamp, gas cap, &amp; more
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post #4 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006, 06:47 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Excellent write-up!

Also-make sure that you dont use automotive type engine oil...bad for oil bath clutches...

Use ATV specific engine oil..yamalube, amsoil, etc...

'02 660&nbsp; +2 stock swinger, 12 tooth front, k&amp;n, !lid, GYTR carbon fiber slip on, AC bumper &amp; nerfs.
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post #5 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006, 09:33 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Thanks for thread sticky. Good write up. To add you can find 3/8 drive oil filter socket type deal for cheap 2-4bucks wallmart are parts store. also to add the oil filter by the book says to torque to 12lbs
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post #6 of 144 (permalink) Old 02-08-2007, 10:11 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

If anybody is in need of some AMSoil please feel free to email me as I am an authorized dealer. Please email me at Branden@krzywonski.com and ill get it taken care of for you....

Elka shocks front and rear<br />LTE duel exhaust<br />Armadillo rear skid plate<br />AC pro nerf bars<br />six pack rack<br />billet led tail light<br />DG front bumper<br />tusk racing clutch<br />trail tech fat bars<br />trail tech billet clamp with raptor logo and dash<br />trailtech endurance computor<br />barkbusters<br />inline radiator coo
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post #7 of 144 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 10:31 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Great thread.
Funny because the first time I lost the "O" ring and this time I burned my fingers.

Also to add to this when checking the oil do not screw the dip stick in, simply place it onto where it would be screwed in and take a reading. I am not sure how much of a difference it makes though. Also if anyone is tired of buying yamaha oil filters for $16 a pop you can buy a different brand from Rocymountainatv.com for 4.99 a piece. Also I used a fram for awhile and it seemed to work fine. Any imputs on that?

2001 Raptor 660<br />2004 Honda 250EX<br />2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x4<br />1992 Mustang GT
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post #8 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-20-2007, 11:28 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Wanna know the shitty thing about 18ft lbs on the oil tank i striped off the hole cylinder thingy right off the tank today. but dont worry jbweld fixes the r, and beer fixed me, so now its all good.............i hope

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post #9 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-16-2007, 10:09 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

You can also buy Wix oil filter from O'Reilly's or NAPA. For all who don't know Wix is one of the highest quality filters you can buy.
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post #10 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-27-2007, 12:28 AM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Originally Posted by IronCityGuy
(1) Trust the manual, If you haven't purchased one you can download it from this forum.
I"m new to the site and i could not find the manual on the site. I was hoping someone could point me in the right way.\

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