660 timing chain tension adjustment - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-18-2011, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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660 timing chain tension adjustment

ok so i really need somebodys help here i just bought a 01 660 with 04 bottom end and it was claimed to have an 11:1 piston, new cam chain, stage 2cams, and valve spring kit. I rode first day and 4hrs into my ride i heard a rattle from the top end dicided to stop riding and check valve adjustment and was below factory spec adjusted it to hot cams stage 2 spec got worse decided to pull valve cover found no parts were aftermarket and chain was a sloppy mess so now am in process of replacing my big question here is how do i remove slack on the exhaust side of chain obviously intake slace is removed by tensioner but is there a step im missing because all the forums of read mention nothin of removing slack except with tensioner thanks for your help much needed
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2011, 06:08 PM
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remove the tensioner... turn the cam - both sides are now slack. Upon re-assembly, turn cam gear CW to take up slack on front - NOW verify that cam is properly timed to crank, then install tensioner (after bolting down head cover) to take up slack on back.

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Last edited by QuadManiac; 12-23-2011 at 06:15 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2011, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmaster02 View Post
ok so i really need somebody's help here i just bought a 01 660 with 04 bottom end and it was claimed to have an 11:1 piston, new cam chain, stage 2cams, and valve spring kit. I rode first day and 4hrs into my ride i heard a rattle from the top end decided to stop riding and check valve adjustment and was below factory spec adjusted it to hot cams stage 2 spec got worse decided to pull valve cover found no parts were aftermarket and chain was a sloppy mess so now am in process of replacing my big question here is how do i remove slack on the exhaust side of chain obviously intake slave is removed by tensioner but is there a step i'm missing because all the forums of read mention nothing of removing slack except with tensioner thanks for your help much needed
I'm not sure what you are asking for here, but chain tension is automatically adjusted by the chain tensioner located at the left lower part of the cylinder. This can be removed by removing the two fasteners and pull it out, if you want to see how far the tensioner is at, remove the big bolt and spring in the head of the tensioner previous to removing the tensioner.........


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 04:29 PM
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Mine is making the ticking noise also, if I take the self tensioner out, and check the notches, after checking, I can just but back in the same way with out making it of time.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 05:14 PM
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Mine is making the ticking noise also, if I take the self tensioner out, and check the notches, after checking, I can just but back in the same way with out making it of time.
Ther cam to crank timing shouldnt change unless you turn the engine over and force the chain to jump over the teeth on either gear, when this is possible, most likely you chain is worn out.............


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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 02:12 PM
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Ther cam to crank timing shouldnt change unless you turn the engine over and force the chain to jump over the teeth on either gear, when this is possible, most likely you chain is worn out.............
So i guess the tensioner does not brake or quit working usually willy?

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012, 03:29 PM
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So i guess the tensioner does not brake or quit working usually willy?
I have personal experience with a tensioner breaking under race conditions, engine rpms were between 6500 and 9000 rpm for extended periods of time.

The ratchet mechanism broke, the chain was tight when the engine was stopped but probalby wouldnt be that tight under run onditions, it was only the spring holding the chain tight............


686 three plugger with HV porting, 39 FCRS, Curtis Sparks exhaust, Dyna FS CDI
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 11:07 PM
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I replaced my timing chain, I found the rocker cover bolt torq specs, but is there a certain pattern they should be torq in? And since I just adjusted my valves two rides before doing this so I adjust them again when i get everything back together?

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MQ parking brake block off blake
Pro Taber bars, 7/8
Vito's performance jet kit
Boss a arm bushings
ODI hand grips
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Tusk Nerf Bars
Tusk Headlights
Yosi full exhaust
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2012, 11:08 PM
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I replaced my timing chain, I found the rocker cover bolt torq specs, but is there a certain pattern they should be torq in? And since I just adjusted my valves two rides before doing this so I adjust them again when i get everything back together?
Yes...............


686 three plugger with HV porting, 39 FCRS, Curtis Sparks exhaust, Dyna FS CDI
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 03:07 AM
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Ok yes on both, what is the pattern I should follow with torq down on cover?

K&N air filter
MQ parking brake block off blake
Pro Taber bars, 7/8
Vito's performance jet kit
Boss a arm bushings
ODI hand grips
Pro Design Case Saver
Tusk Handquards
L&A one way bearing kit
Tusk Nerf Bars
Tusk Headlights
Yosi full exhaust
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