01' 660 Clutch Issues - Yamaha Raptor Forum
 

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Old 12-08-2012, 09:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 01' 660 Clutch Issues

I just finished replacing my clutch using a "tusk" kit with heavy springs. Everything is together except being filled with coolant and oil. I put the quad in first gear and I'm capable of just pushing the quad with minimal wheel lock. My clutch lever is also very loose as well.

To counteract the possibility of it being a cable adjustment issue I pulled the cable off while the bike is still in gear and it still can roll while in first with minimal effort.

Possible problem...

1. When tightening my clutch springs to the desired 5.8-6ft lbs, I basically had to screw them all the way in. On photos of clutch replacement threads, they didn't look like they needed to be screwed in that far.

Could screwing in your springs to far cause your clutch to never grab.



Praying I don't have to try and take this crankcase off again. What a pain.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZGILBERT93 View Post
I just finished replacing my clutch using a "tusk" kit with heavy springs. Everything is together except being filled with coolant and oil. I put the quad in first gear and I'm capable of just pushing the quad with minimal wheel lock. My clutch lever is also very loose as well.

To counteract the possibility of it being a cable adjustment issue I pulled the cable off while the bike is still in gear and it still can roll while in first with minimal effort.

Possible problem...

1. When tightening my clutch springs to the desired 5.8-6ft lbs, I basically had to screw them all the way in. On photos of clutch replacement threads, they didn't look like they needed to be screwed in that far.

Could screwing in your springs to far cause your clutch to never grab.



Praying I don't have to try and take this crankcase off again. What a pain.
If you tightened the clutch spring bolts the way you did, you should be fine.................
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Did you put in the same amount of disc and plates as you took out? Is there 1/8 or less freeplay at the case lever. If there is more freeplay it sounds like there is a disc or plate missing. Or both. Or the clutch basket is grooved enough to hold the clutch released.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Did you put in the same amount of disc and plates as you took out? Is there 1/8 or less freeplay at the case lever. If there is more freeplay it sounds like there is a disc or plate missing. Or both. Or the clutch basket is grooved enough to hold the clutch released.
Didn't really take notice to the count, but I started with one of the 2 thinner frictions and ended with the other thinner friction and used up all of my steels.

Case lever meaning the plunger that goes down into the case?
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
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When using a Tusk kit, do I have to have the 2 thinner plates in a specific order? I also didn't use the cushion plate which shouldn't be a problem. I'll tear off the cover again tomorrow and get some pictures up.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You must alternate, disk/plate/disk/plate, the 2 smaller ones must keep the same sequence. If you haven't pulled the cover yet, check the lever for play. You want to have about 1/8 in. Lots more or none indicate a problem. Also the springs must have tension when you tighten them. You did use new HD springs? Follow the instillation in the shop manual. Availabe from this forum.

Last edited by DEZPERADO; 12-11-2012 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
You must alternate, disk/plate/disk/plate, the 2 smaller ones must keep the same sequence. If you haven't pulled the cover yet, check the lever for play. You want to have about 1/8 in. Lots more or none indicate a problem. Also the springs must have tension when you tighten them. You did use new HD springs? Follow the instillation in the shop manual. Availabe from this forum.
I'm aware of the sequence, I've already replaced a clutch on my yz, but this is my first time with a raptor. I used the new hd springs, but it seems they need to be tightened close to all the way in for my wrench to click at 6lbs.

Any clue where the smaller ones go? I know 1 small is used for the last fiber, but I'm not sure about the other.
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Compare your old springs with your new springs. The new should be the same length or longer. Then push down on each with your thumb. The HD should be stiffer. I haven't been in a 660 clutch, just general knowledge. That's why I sugest the shop manual. Maybe even U-tube.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Compare your old springs with your new springs. The new should be the same length or longer. Then push down on each with your thumb. The HD should be stiffer. I haven't been in a 660 clutch, just general knowledge. That's why I sugest the shop manual. Maybe even U-tube.
I found out one of the problems. There should only be 1 small fiber included in the kit and RockyMTN included 2. I replace one of the smaller fibers with one of my oem's that were in decent shape. Now everything is in the correct order ending with the smaller/thinner fiber.

My clutch pull is still way to light with minimal return pressure. I'll go back and check spring lengths to compare.







EDIT: Here are 2 videos of what I think the problem could be. Any advice is appreciated!




Last edited by ZGILBERT93; 12-11-2012 at 05:18 PM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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DOOOHHH!!!!!

I didn't fully read how to install the clutch shaft. Basically I completely installed it wrong, along with not lining up the pressure plate with the grove in the hub. Looks like I'll hopefully be taking this thing apart for the last time
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