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Working with Plastics: Sanding/Polishing

9K views 37 replies 8 participants last post by  DEZPERADO 
#1 · (Edited)
Plastic Work: Repairs/Sanding/Polishing

I have been thinking about sprucing up my Raptor lately. The front fenders have a little paint over spray and scratches that have been on for years. I was thinking of getting 2000 grit paper, sanding my plastics, and then buffing them to get a better, cleaner shine.

I have seen many people recommend to use SC1. My question is after I am done sanding, would I only use SC1? or buff them with a polishing compound and THEN use the SC1 to finish?

Also, My left rear fender is a little saggy from being tipped. Is there any way to strengthen/lift the fender so it's not as saggy? Would heat on the underside do anything?

Looking for advice from the more experienced plastic care guys haha. Appreciate all the help! Thanks!! :thumbsup:
 
#2 ·
I just typed up a long explanation and lost it. I'll pm my number if you want to call me late morning or later.
 
#4 ·
I am going to pay attention to this thread! My Black Plastic is already scratched to hell and back :p
 
#5 ·
Dez, If you feel like re typing that long explanation I'd like to read it too. I'm trying to get some scratches out myself, and if I bring home anymore, buffing compounds, brake cleen, wd40, or cans of spray paint I'm gonna need a divorce attorney.
 
#7 ·
Here goes again!! But I'll do it in installments.


First, don't buy any buffing compound, you won't need it.


For deep scratches, get a NEW single edge razor blade or utility knife blade. Stand the blade up on the scratch, and draw in the direction of the scratch. Sometimes a slight forward angle works. If it's deep, you'll need to blend it so it's not a big gouge in one area. Be cautious with the edges of the blades so they don't dig in.
 
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#9 ·
Now is the time to fix any missing or loose tabs. If they are missing, you'll have to make some. I know everyone saved their old damaged plastic that was replaced. If not, you'll need to find some to use. Like under the seat or tool box area, etc. Make a pattern and cut some tabs. Loose tabs are easy, but you'll have to line up the missing tabs carefully and hold on the outside with masking tape. Lay the fenders, hood, tank cover, etc on a bench, good side down. use a towel for protection and clamp firmly, but loose. You'll notice the tabs are offset in from the main piece. Use cardboard or similar for a spacer.


Now you need heat, and there are two kinds. Harbor Fright has a plastic welder for $10-$15. Not the one that uses air, but more of a soldering iron type. It also comes with some metal screen, cut about 1/4 by 1in long. Lay this on the repair tab, and then heat with the iron, and imbed the screen in the plastic. I use the side of the iron, not the triangle base. Let it cool, and you're done.


Or you can use a small butane or propane torch. You'll also need a small 1/4in wide hose clamp. Straighten the threaded area and cut about 1in off. Hold in the center with cheap or lifetime needle nose pliers. Heat with the torch to cherry red, then imbed in the plastic. Work fast, as it cools fast.


The purpose of the screen or hose clamp is to hold both pieces together. The plastic squishes thru the holes/slots. Trim as necessary, and walah.
 
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#11 ·
Sorry, I have none. I'd have to take my bike appart to get some. We'll see what I can do.
 
#13 ·
If you're using a torch, use a hose clamp. The screen material won't hold the heat. The clamp method is stronger, but harder to do. It's best to have 2 people. One with the torch, one ready to push down on each end.
 
#17 ·
Yeah, get the SC1, but don't put it on now. I think I bought it for $10-$12 a can. It's a silicone base, like tire shine or Armor All, only better. Use it sparingly. Beware, you can't paint it.

Get it at your local motorcycle shop.
 
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#18 · (Edited)
Yeah, get the SC1, but don't put it on now. I think I bought it for $10-$12 a can. It's a silicone base, like tire shine or Armor All, only better. Use it sparingly. Beware, you can't paint it.
Yeah that is why I am trying to clean up the plastics before I do any applying of the SC1.

So what would be the proper steps to getting the plastics shiny as new?

My plastics aren't too bad, just a couple kick marks on the rear fenders and a little over-spray on front right fender. I want to go over with a Scotch Brite or fine grit paper and clean it up, then I would like to give them a proper shine that will last a while and not be dull after the first wash.
 
#22 ·
This time was a tablet, last time was a lap top.
 
#25 ·
Yeah, I know, but sometimes life gets in the way. I was gonna continue today, but that won't happen. Mostly since I don't type well. What takes some only a short time is a long time for me. Thats prolly why I've had some time out and get lost.
 
#26 ·
I can type like a Banshee.. No, a Banshee isn't fast enough.. I can type like a Raptor! But with that being said, when I am doing a long write-up I will create a
new text document on my desktop and type and proof read and edit in the text document (remembering to frequently save) and then when I am ready I will
cut and paste into the forums.
 
#31 ·
I can understand wanting to make your rappy look spiffy but I like the look of battle scars add character to my rappy........but then again some may thing with all the scratches i tend to crash a lot......hmmm imma keep this thread in mind
 
#32 ·
I am just glad they are white haha. If not, they would probably look a lot worse!

For the most part they have a nice shine with the usual scratches, they are harder to notice but I just wanna get some shine back on the parts of the front fender that were sanded to remove small amount of paint over-spray.

Plus, I figured this would be a good thread to gather info on restoring plastics for those who have earned more than enough battle scars throughout the years and do not want to spend $300-500 to get new ones. I think I will try Dezperado's tips on fixing broken tabs!
 
#33 ·
Soooo, I'm back, sorry for the delay.


Tabs are repaired, gouges are scraped and we're ready for sanding. Start with a kitchen sponge with a scotch pad on one side. Or 1000 grit wet-dry paper soaked in water and dish soap. 'Dawn" works good. Always use a backing like a 1/2in or 3/4in sponge or folded rag. Sand against the scratches. If that doesn't work, you may need courser paper like 600. Use progressively finer grit till smooth. If you're replacing graphics, you'll need to work extra on the old shadow lines till gone.


Now you're ready for the hardest part. PATIENCE!! You'll need a propane torch. Not Oxy/Acc, not a brush burner, but a small bottle, propane torch. If you have some plastic like a milk bottle, or yellow kitty litter bin you should practice. You want to QUICKLY dust the torch over the dull, sanded spots. DON'T STAY IN ONE SPOT. You want to melt the tops of the fine scratches to even out the grooves. Once again, QUICKLY. This where you will ruin your plastic if you go to slow. After a few swipes, let the plastic cool 5-10min. Then repeat several times as needed. Then blend in with the un-sanded areas. Don't get anything to hot, go fast. I can't emphise that to much.


If your fenders are out of shape, twisted, or bent, you can pull it back in shape. Heat a wide area in the direction you want to pull the plastic. Heat the inside to pull towards the frame. Heat the outside to pull away from the frame. Again, don't heat to hot and do a little at a time. It will take 5-10min to cool down, then check. Repeat several times as needed.


Do you have stress marks?? Do the same with the torch. Quick swipes. Cool down, repeat as necessary.


Then, install your graphics or paint. I don't like painting full fenders because they flex and chip or peel. Hoods and tail lite under cover are OK as long as cables are dressed so they don't rub. Gas tank covers may have gas spilled on them and damage paint.


That's all for now. IF YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND, STOP!! Ask questions BEFORE you ruin your plastic!!


Next time, I'll explain trimming/race cutting your fenders.
 
#34 ·
Oh yeah. Graphics and paint.


Allow paint to 'gas off' several days or more before graphics. Otherwise the paint and graphics may blister.


Its best to install graphics with soapy water or glass cleaner. NO AMMONIA!! They will slide in position, then squeegee the water out. Allow several days to dry before use. NO PRESSURE WASHERS.


After all this, now is the time for SC1. It is basically 'silicone', so nothing will stick to it. Paint, graphics, etc. Spray lightly to cover the plastic completely. Let set for as long as possible, then before your next ride, wipe it off and polish to a shine.
 
#35 ·
Thanks Dezperado! I appreciate you taking the time out of your day to do these write ups. I knew I would be able to gain more knowledge from an experienced RF member, rather than trying to 'trial and error' on my own. I know the write ups you have provided will be able to help others also in need of plastics tips. Thanks again!
 
#36 ·
Bumping this write up, strictly because DEZ has some good points. Will prolly make a sticky as well when back on my computer. I will take my daughters 350 plastics off for the winter, post before and after pics as I brush up on what DEZ has instructed.

Thanks DEZ!
 
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#37 ·
I repaired scratched and oxidized plastics with a new razor blade. Gently sliding in one direction with blade at a 90 degree angle with plastic. Quickly removes the bad plastic without the sand lines. It does take an artist touch like the torch. Then to finish it up, I've used wipe new on the plastics. Makes it look like brand new.
 
#38 ·
The razor blade makes fast work on deep scratches, but be sure to blend into the rest of the plastic. You can heat a hacksaw blade center cherry red and pull the straight side across the plastic and melt it in the depressions. Be sure to scrub all the dirt off first.

The torch isn't for the faint of heard. Practice first on a piece that can be throne away.
 
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