So I was tooling around and decided to defile my raptors butt by poking around the exhaust hole. I never actually had a good look at it until now. I thought I had a quiet core in it! I was pretty aggravated because never thought to check it big guns just stuck one in it for no reason. But on closer inspection, it's a conical insert from what I can tell.
So I looked up on their website and I can't even find the same core if I wanted to replace it. All I find are flow through designs. Their ad says it produces more sound? Wouldn't the tube design do that better with more performance? Anyway. I need to repack because I'm sure all the insulation was burned out when I was shooting blue flames last summer. And I do have a lot of hours on it. So I'm gonna try to talk to them tomorrow about getting a normal dang insert and packing it. The cone can't be the best performance insert is it?
So I Yanked out the core. Probably not a grand idea since I don't have the stuff to repack. But apparently this is what passes as a high performance muffler. Those conical baffles are supposed to "increase sound" I don't doubt that it gives it a deeper tone. But wtf. The replacement cores don't have that crap in the tubes. So I'm gonna get on the phone with big.guns and let them know about a thing or two and see if I can't get some free packing or at least some free expedited shipping. Obviously they quit using that design because it didn't work out or something. They basically just tacked a couple little beads of weld holding it in otherwise the core is still in good shape so instead of buying a new one. I'm just gonna try to rip the guts out of this and repack it accordingly.
I believe that's your spark arrestor. A quiet core would be a plate across the opening, with a tube welded in the center. They are easily made if you have tin snips and a welder.
What really grinds my gears is that I know it's causing some major flow problems because when I pulled the core out, only 3/4s of the insulation came out. The rest looked like burnt rats nest. The other stuff near the end still was in good shape
That's what I'll do then if I can't get big guns to foot the bill. I mean I almost don't want to change it because of how loud it already is but what is the point of spending 700 bucks on a full exhaust if it's flowing barely any better than stock?
No, no, don't go to sleep!! The boogeyman is under your bed!! AND, there's another one in your closet. And, have you verified your wife is the same person you married?? You better keep the lights on all night long. Hahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!
Haha. The packing wasn't gone. It's was just burnt at the beginning of that baffle from the turbulence it caused I'm guessing because the rest was fine. Honestly though after all this. I don't believe I'll recommend this exhaust. First off to put it on the bike is like a 2 man job no matter what angle you go at it. The tolerances between the frame and pipe is too small of a gap. I do believe what everyone was saying about the exos not performing how they should. Probably because of the dang insert. I mean build quality is fine and it isn't rusting. But it's all aluminum and stainless. I don't even understand why they offer a quiet core with the exo. It's got one built in that's welded in place!
Well I called big guns a minute ago. The guy confirmed with me that it was a baffling system and tried telling me it makes it louder and give it more power. I didn't have the heart to tell him how dumb that sounded.
My EVO R's are not designed that way at all. They are a flow through design without the silencers. The actual silencers are about 3" long and also flow through design but do have perforated holes made out of heavy guage material, not coned like what you have. The spark arrestors are exactly as you pictured and do come with that extra washer to put in place when I do not run the QC units. Those QC's sit in my tool box on the occasion I notice ranger activity, so for the most part its all straight through design with the exception of spark arrestors.
Lol Yeah I Live in the middle of nowhere so I don't really have to worry about noise unless I'm stabbing throttle in town for no reason. I Put it all back together, Sounds louder and deeper and I did notice a little more mid to top end. Autotuner backed my theory up about restrictive flow as well. So to the guys at bigguns, you can shove your "test proven" results up your bum.
The cone system in the core, no matter how they're shaped, restricts flow and diverts exhaust to have to run through the grates and into the packing. Like I understand that they probably did it to modify the sound and to meet standards. But you can't really sell an exhaust like that under the free flowing performance category when everyone else is an actual flow through design.
Annnnd On top of that, you can't just get on their website and order that specific core, you have to call them for it which is 30 bucks, then they charge 35 bucks for their "special designed" packing material. And however much the shipping is. I just went to the local dealer and picked up 4 stroke fmf repacking kit for 10 bucks. Works just as well.
They still market quiet cores for that design. Like you'd basically have 2 quiet cores in your muffler. Might as well shove a dang potato in the exhaust.
Odd that there was a fitment issue for those. The EVO R series was super easy, great fitment with zero issues. That EXO series is their newest in the line up isn't it?
My Auto tune changes some parameters. But It won't drastic enough to be needed. It does open it up more. And it's definitely good a more bassy exhaust note now
Like I said just be careful when prying and hammering. The stainless core is pretty tough, so if you bend it, you can bend it back. It just makes it harder to line back up.
It definitely makes a meaner sound now. Like I said before. When you go to hammer it out, take your time and use a flat head to get between the insert. It's all pretty durable metal but it will bend if you pry against it too hard.
It's pretty tight spot. And I don't think a dremel is long enough to get in where the spot welds are. If anything, you could just use a metal drill bit and drill out the spot welds
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