I wish the Oil Change topic could have been a sticky thread since I've seen numerous threads out there. For all those who might be confused about doing this maitenance, this should solve the problem.

On all Yamaha Raptor 660's

(1) Trust the manual, If you haven't purchased one you can download it from this forum.

(2) Remove both oil drain bolts, thats right there is TWO.
A. The First one is located next to the shifter linkage on the left hand side of the ATV. You should have to remove the engine skid plate. This bolt will allow the oil from the crank case to drain and should require a 17mm wrench or socket.
B. The Second one is located at the bottom of the oil tank. The oil tank is normally black in color and located in front of the engine attached to the frame. On the oil tank you will find the oil dip stick which is located on the top right side of the oil tank. This bolt will allow the oil from the oil tank to drain and should require a 15mm wrench or socket.

(3) After removing these Two bolts allow for the oil to drain completely. Rock it, roll it or just allow the ATV to drain on a level surface. After you are satisfied replace both bolts, I hand tighten them to my satisfaction but the manual will recommend 22ft lbs on the crank case bolt and 18ft lbs for the oil tank.

(4) If you are replacing the oil filter continue with this following step. If not skip and continue to step 5. The oil filter is located on the right side of the ATV. Most of the time you can hand remove these but an oil filter wrench will do the trick just fine. This filter is a bit smaller than normal car filters so an adjustable filter wrench is your best bet. Make sure the old filter gasket comes off with the old filter. Double gasketing a filter is very bad and could cause future problems. Not much oil will flow from this area since it only holds .2 US qts. When installing the new filter make sure the gasket is seated in the filter groove and apply a light coating of fresh oil to the gasket and tighten er' down. Again hand tightening is acceptable yet 12ft lbs is recommended.

(5) All the oil is out, Both bolts are replaced and tight, Oil Filter is replaced (maybe) and tightened down. Now to add oil. But you may have some questions. :3question:

A. How Much Oil? First off let me say that every engine is not the same! You will have to treat your ATV like an individual. They are all close but depending on how owners care for thier ATV's and just random variables can make these numbers change. You should purchase 3 US qts to be safe.
B. Which Oil Brand? You make the choice but YAMALUBE 4 is the easiest choice. I like the AMSOil but thats just my choice. :thumbsup:
C. Which Weight of OIL? Refering to the manual, 30degrees F to 120degrees F use 20W40, 10degrees F to 95degrees F use 10W30, Under 30degrees F use 5W30 but at this stage you should be running the SNOWMOBILE! Basically the hotter the weather the thicker the oil and the colder the weather the thinner the oil.

You add oil to only one place, the OIL Tank! Start with adding 1.75 US qts. You'll need more but this is your starting point. After adding this amount start er' up. Run it for 10 - 20 seconds giving it a few revs of the engine but be gentle. STOP the engine and allow the oil to settle. Air bubbles can give you a bad reading and since oil is thick, waiting a minute or so to check the oil level is the best bet. Don't RUSH! Check the dip stick and you may or may not find the oil level on the bottom ot the stick. Now here is the most challenging task of this maitenance action. I don't care if you add and check 10 times, it should only take 2-4 but keep the following thing in mind. After you add and start you must allow the oil to settle. The total addition of oil should be between 2 US qts and 2.5 US qts.

(6) Got the oil to the proper level, Good. Wipe down any oil spilt and replace the engine skid plate. The only other two things to watch out for is not to lose the o-ring on the oil tank dipstick and don't burn your arm on the exhaust, I did my first time. :unsure:

I hope this helps out. Check your oil every other ride and change when needed. Cheep and easy maitenance and will extend the life of your ATV. Happy Mudding! :thumbsup:

Where can you pick up the oil?

you can pick up the oil at any Yahama dealer parts department or you can pick up at any ATV performance shop.

excellent thread - should be sticky

Excellent write-up!

Also-make sure that you dont use automotive type engine oil...bad for oil bath clutches...

Use ATV specific engine oil..yamalube, amsoil, etc...

Thanks for thread sticky. Good write up. To add you can find 3/8 drive oil filter socket type deal for cheap 2-4bucks wallmart are parts store. also to add the oil filter by the book says to torque to 12lbs

If anybody is in need of some AMSoil please feel free to email me as I am an authorized dealer. Please email me at Branden@krzywonski.com and ill get it taken care of for you....

Great thread.
Funny because the first time I lost the "O" ring and this time I burned my fingers.

Also to add to this when checking the oil do not screw the dip stick in, simply place it onto where it would be screwed in and take a reading. I am not sure how much of a difference it makes though. Also if anyone is tired of buying yamaha oil filters for $16 a pop you can buy a different brand from Rocymountainatv.com for 4.99 a piece. Also I used a fram for awhile and it seemed to work fine. Any imputs on that?

Wanna know the shitty thing about 18ft lbs on the oil tank i striped off the hole cylinder thingy right off the tank today. but dont worry jbweld fixes the r, and beer fixed me, so now its all good.............i hope

You can also buy Wix oil filter from O'Reilly's or NAPA. For all who don't know Wix is one of the highest quality filters you can buy.

(1) Trust the manual, If you haven't purchased one you can download it from this forum.


I"m new to the site and i could not find the manual on the site. I was hoping someone could point me in the right way.\

thanks

(1) Trust the manual, If you haven't purchased one you can download it from this forum.


I"m new to the site and i could not find the manual on the site. I was hoping someone could point me in the right way.\

thanks


Read the stickies :thumbsup:

:) i got on today and found what i was looking for in about 5 minutes... I don't know how i overlooked it last night. *sigh* i'm just glad my boys are attached to me or i'd lose them too.

Glad you found what you were looking for.

Let us know if there's anything we can help with. :thumbsup:

K & N are doing replacement oil filters r these any good i normally use stock and stock only on most of my parts ? by the way i am no too bothered about price . .

when putting oil back in the bike you just put it in the black tank, not the crankcase? It won't blow up the motor will it?

thanks

No it will not blow up the motor.

That was a great write up! I swore that the manual did say though that the raptor 660 takes about 1.9 quarts and not the 2.5 that was writte. i could be wrong though, other than that, that write up is very much appreciated! youguys are awesome!

Thanks for the write up.. I printed it so I can take it with me when I actually do it. Could someone post the tools needed to complete the oil change? Like what is needed to take off the skid plate .. ect. My bike is stored in Glamis so I need to take the tools with me on my next trip.

Thanks again,
Jarred

That was a great write up! I swore that the manual did say though that the raptor 660 takes about 1.9 quarts and not the 2.5 that was writte. i could be wrong though, other than that, that write up is very much appreciated! youguys are awesome!


The manual uses Liters primarily for volume measurement so the first amount listed is 1.9 L but in the parentheses it has 2.06 Qt, although my raptor generally takes more than that. Also, you should warm your bike up a bit (thus warming up the oil) because it expands and thats how it should be measured.

Good write up!
I warm mine up, but I don't check it at it's hottest, liek after a big run, just reasonably warm.

I found the filter cross-reference on this site, and was happy that my personal detective work matched what I see here.

There are some in-depth discussions about oil filters all over the www.

Here's what I learned doing my research.
Fram's are down near the bottom of the barrel in quality and filtering ability.
Steer clear of them.

Purolator Pure 1's and the NAPA Gold series get very high ratings.
They contain more filtering media AND have superior flow, they do a better all-round job.

WIX makes NAPA. Put a "5" in front of a NAPA number and it is the WIX number.
NAPA 1356 = WIX 51356 ... pretty easy.

For my 2003 Raptor , I use the longer filters, 3.25" rather than 2.5"
I don't find the extra length gets in the way. Longer is supposed to give you a little more filtering capacity and will help with a small tidbit of extra oil cooling ability, since it has a larger surface area.

I personally use Purolator Pure 1, PL14610 or PL14620
The NAPA Gold 1356 would be my next choice.

If you have the Blue Raptor, the Pure 1 filters are a metallic blue, and almost match.
I have the blue frame paint, and the Pure 1's are really close to that color.
I take the labels off for that custom look. People ask: "Where did you get that Filter!"

The NAPA filters are black, (pretty sure).

The Specs on these replacement Raptor filters are:
Threads= 20 x 1.5mm
14psi by-pass valve
anti-drain back valve
2.3" O.D. gasket

My first post here, glad I found this place!

Heres the link to the sticky with the manual: http://www.raptorforum.com/index.php?topic=4.0

Also, to the guy who asked what hardware is needed - this is for my 2002 raptor which I think they are all the same:

You will need a 5mm allen wrench to take the skid plate bolts out.
You'll want a 3/8 inch drive ratchet with a 14 mm socket for the oil reservoir and a 17mm socket for the crankcase drain. Althought I found a 17mm open ended wrench was much easier for taking this drain plug out.
You might need an oil filter wrench to get the filter off if yours is really tight.
Your going to NEED a long skinny funnel to pour the oil into the reservior as its in a very invonvenient place. I would say the funnel should be at least 1 foot long, one of those funnels with a hose coming off the end would work perfect as you could feed the hose in there.
Oh and don't forget an oil pan =)

I also found that the reservior will OVERFLOW at exactly 2 quarts of oil if you do not start the engine after putting about a quart in.. you need to put about 1.25 quarts in and then replace the filler cap and let the engine run for 30 seconds or so to suck some of that oil up. I also found that if you do overflow the reservoir, and then try to start the engine without the filler cap on, it will shoot oil out like a geyser ... what I mess I made..


I also wanted to respond to the one persons comment about staying away from automotive oils - I just want to say this is pretty much an urban legend and there is no proof that automotive oils damage wet clutches due to "friction modifiers". This is widely debated over many forums but one thing you will never see is solid proof that running automotive oils will cause problems with wet clutches. This rumor is pretty common in the motorcycle world too but I have seen it to be false with my own vehicles, as have many others I've communicated with.
Just thought I'd throw that in there, if anyone was too scared by the hype to run regular (and much cheaper) oils - I choose not to pay $10 a quart for super duper ATV/motorcycle specific oils until I see some scientific proof about this rumor.

I have responded to this in other posts, but I do know that Friction Modiferis destroy clutches, I did it myself about 6 years ago, I used a 20W50 oil with Friction Modifiers in our 93 Warrior, and in less then 5 minutes the clutch was slipping badly, we dismantled the clutch, could not see any thing wrong, scuffed the plates and reassembled, with no luck, we replaced the friction plates and reassembled the clutch and drove it again, with in a half hour it was slipping again. I had recently purchased my 01 raptor and was reading through the owners manually when I read the section on engine oils and realized my mistake. We ran the engine with new oil to flush the old oil out, changed it to Amsoil 10 40, ran it for about a half hour, dismantled the clutch and installed all new plates, changed the oil again and finally the clutch worked great.

I read through the info from the other thread. Its all very interesting and I do now fear the friction modifiers - but the question still remains, which oils are high in friction modifiers that will damage wet clutches? They must be few and far between as I have run many different oils in many different wet clutch applications and never had any problems. I'm not doubting that these friction modifiers are dangerous, I'm now just looking for some info on how to tell an oil has a dangerous amount of them and which oils to avoid.

I should add that this Warrior is extremely modified, on dyno runs it was putting out 28.5 wheel hp, a stock engine was tested at 16 hp, and the clutch is still basically stock with the exception of the springs being a lot stronger.

I read through the info from the other thread. Its all very interesting and I do now fear the friction modifiers - but the question still remains, which oils are high in friction modifiers that will damage wet clutches? They must be few and far between as I have run many different oils in many different wet clutch applications and never had any problems. I'm not doubting that these friction modifiers are dangerous, I'm now just looking for some info on how to tell an oil has a dangerous amount of them and which oils to avoid.
All I can suggest is to use oil blended specially for the application concerned, I realize that oil is expensive and so are the repairs that are caused by using incorrect oil. I simply just pay the buck for proper oil, the career I am in has taught me to respect this, since I see lots of variance from this moto and the consumer usually pays in the end ten times over, in your case you seem to be using quality oil otherwise I am sure you would have experienced what I have with my Warrior's clutch.

I couldn't find a "what's he best kind of oil" thread to jump on, so I suppose this is second best. :grin_nod:

I've been using Castrol dinosaur oil in every bike I've owned since the early 70's. Not the synthetic stuff, just the off the shelf white bottle. Never had a clutch problem yet, so I suppose I'll continue to use it.

Great website- I got my '02 660 3 days ago, and I was looking for just such a place so I could read up a bit before diving in. Need to change oil & filter, then check the PBL, then the reverse gear fix... hadn't heard of it until now, so it may or mayu not apply to me, and may or may not have already been done. :thumbsup:

Most people on here use Rotella, Amsoil, or just Yamalube. If your Castrol oil has any Energy Conserving or API on it, it will eventually glaze your clutches. I dont know what your old bikes are, but the Raptor uses the same oil in the motor as it does in the clutch(yes I bet you knew this, not calling you a retard) and any type of friction modifiers will ruin the clutches.

Remember when you remove Parking Brake sensor to fill the end of the plug with some silicone or something.

Good Luck :thumbsup:

Huh? :3question: Did you say something?? Oh, are you talking to me?


Sorry, I got lost watching your avatar.

My last bike was a Kawasaki ZRX1100, and I traded it for the Raptor. It has 48,000 miles on it.

Thanks for the tip on the sensor, I hadn't yet deciphered if I had to jumper it or plug it up. :thumbsup:

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5292/p1010657xu5.jpg

If your Castrol oil has any Energy Conserving or API on it, it will eventually glaze your clutches. .... and any type of friction modifiers will ruin the clutches.


I have to disagree with this - it was only the old oils, 6,7 years ago and older, that had the wrong kind of molybdenums (friction modifiers) in them that were ruining friction plates. Modern synths all have a "wet clutch" safe friction modifier in them.

If your Castrol oil has any Energy Conserving or API on it, it will eventually glaze your clutches. .... and any type of friction modifiers will ruin the clutches.


I have to disagree with this - it was only the old oils, 6,7 years ago and older, that had the wrong kind of molybdenums (friction modifiers) in them that were ruining friction plates. Modern synths all have a "wet clutch" safe friction modifier in them.


Believe what you want.

If your Castrol oil has any Energy Conserving or API on it, it will eventually glaze your clutches. .... and any type of friction modifiers will ruin the clutches.


I have to disagree with this - it was only the old oils, 6,7 years ago and older, that had the wrong kind of molybdenums (friction modifiers) in them that were ruining friction plates. Modern synths all have a "wet clutch" safe friction modifier in them.


Some synthetics are wet clutch safe, others aren't. Some additives to the oils are safe for wet clutches, others aren't. I'm not a smart enough guy to know what they are and what chemicals/molecules/elements/etc are the cause, I rely on info from trustworthy people who are smarter than I.

If all moly is ok for wet clutches why would Honda still sell essentially the same oil in 2 different forms, one with moly one without? Would I also have to assume that Valvoline's 4 stroke oil is the same as the stuff that comes in the standard auto oil bottle?

this is great info. im gonna be changing mine for the first time on the raptor i just bought.

more great info considering im a raptor newbie :lol:

How often should I be changing the oil. I pretty much just do some trail riding, hardly ever reach 5th at high RPM's.
Thanks

Moly will not impregnate a clutch friction. It will impregnate the clutch steel but not the friction. If the wet clutch in the raptor was similar to a wet brake system where the "brake" had metal on metal plates that contacted each other to apply friction to stop this would be a problem. Moly is not a problem in a wet clutch.

Moly will not impregnate a clutch friction. It will impregnate the clutch steel but not the friction. If the wet clutch in the raptor was similar to a wet brake system where the "brake" had metal on metal plates that contacted each other to apply friction to stop this would be a problem. Moly is not a problem in a wet clutch.


So I sincerely ask, why make oils with and without? Is it a grand marketing scheme where all oils would be just fine and they're just repackaging and jacking up the price? Or is the with/without modifiers only applicable to certain clutch setups or certain types of machines? Like a different oil for every application?

Moly will not impregnate a clutch friction. It will impregnate the clutch steel but not the friction. If the wet clutch in the raptor was similar to a wet brake system where the "brake" had metal on metal plates that contacted each other to apply friction to stop this would be a problem. Moly is not a problem in a wet clutch.


So I sincerely ask, why make oils with and without? Is it a grand marketing scheme where all oils would be just fine and they're just repackaging and jacking up the price? Or is the with/without modifiers only applicable to certain clutch setups or certain types of machines? Like a different oil for every application?

[edit] Other additives
In addition to the viscosity index improvers, motor oil manufacturers often include other additives such as detergents and dispersants to help keep the engine clean by minimizing sludge buildup, corrosion inhibitors, and alkaline additives to neutralize acidic oxidation products of the oil. Most commercial oils have a minimal amount of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate as an anti-wear additive to protect contacting metal surfaces with zinc and other compounds in case of metal to metal contact. The quantity of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate is limited to minimize adverse effect on catalytic converters.

There are other additives available commercially which can be added to the oil by the user for purported additional benefit. Some of these additives include:

Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) additives, which typically also contain calcium, are available to consumers for additional protection under extreme-pressure conditions or in heavy duty performance situations. ZDDP and calcium additives are also added to protect motor oil from oxidative breakdown and to prevent the formation of sludge and varnish deposits.
In the 1980s and 1990s, additives with suspended PTFE particles were available to consumers to increase motor oil's ability to coat and protect metal surfaces. There is controversy as to the actual effectiveness of these products as they can solidify and clog the oil filters.
Some molybdenum disulfide containing additives to lubricating oils are claimed to reduce friction, bond to metal, or have anti-wear properties.
Various other extreme-pressure additives and antiwear additives

[edit] Synthetic oil and synthetic blends
Synthetic lubricants were first synthesized, or man-made, in significant quantities as replacements for mineral lubricants (and fuels) by German scientists in the late 1930s and early 1940s because of their lack of sufficient quantities of crude for their (primarily military) needs. A significant factor in its gain in popularity was the ability of synthetic-based lubricants to remain fluid in the sub-zero temperatures of the Eastern front in wintertime, temperatures which caused petroleum-based lubricants to solidify due to their higher wax content. The use of synthetic lubricants widened through the 1950s and 1960s due to a property at the other end of the temperature spectrum, the ability to lubricate aviation engines at temperatures that caused mineral-based lubricants to break down. In the mid 1970s, synthetic motor oils were formulated and commercially applied for the first time in automotive applications. The same SAE system for designating motor oil viscosity also applies to synthetic oils.

Instead of making motor oil with the conventional petroleum base, "true" synthetic oil base stocks are artificially synthesized. Synthetic oils are derived from either Group III mineral base oils, Group IV, or Group V non-mineral bases. True synthetics include classes of lubricants like synthetic esters as well as "others" like GTL (Methane Gas-to-Liquid) (Group V) and polyalpha-olefins (Group IV), although actual base oil content of finished blended motor oils is not a factor. Higher purity and therefore better property control theoretically means synthetic oil has good mechanical properties at extremes of high and low temperatures. The molecules are made large and "soft" enough to retain good viscosity at higher temperatures, yet branched molecular structures interfere with solidification and therefore allow flow at lower temperatures. Thus, although the viscosity still decreases as temperature increases, these synthetic motor oils have a much improved viscosity index over the traditional petroleum base. Their specially designed properties allow a wider temperature range at higher and lower temperatures and often include a lower pour point. With their improved viscosity index, true synthetic oils need little or no viscosity index improvers, which are the oil components most vulnerable to thermal and mechanical degradation as the oil ages, and thus they do not degrade as quickly as traditional motor oils.

Synthetic lubricants are designed for "long life" extended drain intervals, but most users rarely run them long enough to gain a cost-effective return. If a "synthetic" oil costs 2 to 3 times as much as a conventional oil, it would have to be used for 2 to 3 times longer than a conventional oil just to break even.

Today, synthetic lubricants are available for use in modern automobiles on nearly all lubricated components, allegedly with superior performance and longevity as compared to non-synthetic alternatives. Some tests[citation needed] have shown that fully synthetic oil is superior to conventional oil in many respects, providing better engine protection, performance, and better flow in cold starts than petroleum-based motor oil. These "tests" simply test the parameters of the oil itself and not really how well they work. Synthetics may offer little or no real-world benefit, as witnessed by the millions and millions of cars that lead long lives on plain motor oil. Generally, other components will fail long before the engine dies of an oil-related failure. Lab analysis of the wear metals contained in the used oil show identical or even lower wear with plain dino oils. Consumer Reports attempted[citation needed] to demonstrate the conventional vs synthetic advantages, but chose taxi cabs as a test-bed, which is actually a non-demanding application since the oil stays hot all the time, easily driving off accumulated water and fuels. This "test" in low-performance engines over a less-demanding driving cycle technically proved little about the subject.


Citation:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Other_additives

Moly will not impregnate a clutch friction. It will impregnate the clutch steel but not the friction. If the wet clutch in the raptor was similar to a wet brake system where the "brake" had metal on metal plates that contacted each other to apply friction to stop this would be a problem. Moly is not a problem in a wet clutch.


So I sincerely ask, why make oils with and without? Is it a grand marketing scheme where all oils would be just fine and they're just repackaging and jacking up the price? Or is the with/without modifiers only applicable to certain clutch setups or certain types of machines? Like a different oil for every application?


I think that there are certain oils/formulations for certain jobs. I found an oil, it is a 20-50 full synthetic made by Schaeffer oil company that contains moly, but has no "friction modifier" that will impregnate the clutch fibers. I chose this oil for the reason of having moly and it does not absorb alky as bad as other oils. The moly impregnates the metal reducing friction while not having to wory about clutch failure. I chose this oil after speaking with the rep, who is a friend, and found out he is running it in his street bike since it was new, now with over 10,000 miles and has had zero problems. He changes the oil about every 2000 miles and oil samples. So far the oil samples have came back perfect. He also has some local racers using it in their alky sprint and latemodel cars. :thumbsup:

I have been using castrol 4 cycle motorcyle oil as well. Could there be a problem with this? please let me know. There is nothing on the bottle that says wetclutch safe or friction modifiers. I dont want any future problems that i could have avoided.

-kyle

If you have been using it for a while with no problems you should be fine. If it is formulated for a motorcycle application it is probably wetclutch safe.

You can also buy Wix oil filter from O'Reilly's or NAPA. For all who don't know Wix is one of the highest quality filters you can buy.


Just throwing this out there for you guys!! I was chatting with my parts guy and he informed me that the Wix and Amsoil filters are either built identical or they are made by the same company. So either Wix makes filters for Amsoil or Amsoil makes Wix filters, I would imagin it is the first scenario. It may be a BS marketing scheme but I have heard it a few times. I guess either way your looking at a great filter from Wix :thumbsup:

Awsome, Everything you could want to know. Except one thing of course. WHERE do you put in the oil please? I just got a 2004 Rappy 660r and I don't want to put the oil in the wrong pipe. Ty, And I don't suppose anyone knows where the coolant opening is to put some in? Ad Can I just put in water?

Sorry if I sound frustrated but I have posted 4 question's on 3 forum's and apparently "The Pro's" don't know how to answer em.

Awsome, Everything you could want to know. Except one thing of course. WHERE do you put in the oil please? I just got a 2004 Rappy 660r and I don't want to put the oil in the wrong pipe. Ty, And I don't suppose anyone knows where the coolant opening is to put some in? Ad Can I just put in water?

Sorry if I sound frustrated but I have posted 4 question's on 3 forum's and apparently "The Pro's" don't know how to answer em.


Oil goes in the oil tank on the 660's. remove the dipstick from right side and put oil in there. to drain oil you must drain the oil tank and the crankcase. oiltank drain is just forward of lower oil line. Crankcase drains from left side of case, just below shifter. Coolant goes in the overflow bottle until it is at the cold mark. Remove front nose plastic and remove radiator cap, fill until radiator is full.

are these instructions the same on the 700? also what about the warrior 350? thanks guys

i use yamalube oil along with the NAPA 1356 filter and it works well on my
660:cool:. I read in quad magazine a couple issues back that using any synthetic oil with the energy conserving logo on the back will cause premature clutch problems. just throwing that out there hope it helps

i am also either blind or just plain dumb cuz i cant find the manual download for the 660 can someone help me out?

i am also either blind or just plain dumb cuz i cant find the manual download for the 660 can someone help me out?

If you look about 4 inches down from where this thread is you would have seen it. ;)

Factory Service Manual and Other Documentation

http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6

Thank you for the write up. i was unsure if you had to add oil to the oil tank and the crank case or just the oil tank and this cleared that up :D Thanks!!

Does this all apply to the '09 700 raptor as well. Thanks.

In theory yes, but the capacity is most likely different. If you need a manual for the 700R there is one stickied in one of the 700 sections.

I am just about to do my first change and I want to pick the oil I will be using for the life of my ride.

Synthetic or Just plain YAMALUBE 4

I need advice. I just paid over $15 a qt for racing oil. Days later, my clutch went bad. I am replacing with a Gytr unit. My question is, can I strain, with coffee filter, the oil and put it back in? Would this be any less than using new oil?

I read through the info from the other thread. Its all very interesting and I do now fear the friction modifiers - but the question still remains, which oils are high in friction modifiers that will damage wet clutches? They must be few and far between as I have run many different oils in many different wet clutch applications and never had any problems. I'm not doubting that these friction modifiers are dangerous, I'm now just looking for some info on how to tell an oil has a dangerous amount of them and which oils to avoid.

I just changed my oil with motorex synthetic. After a few days of riding here and there, my clutch went out. When I pulled cover off I discovered broken clutch pads. Coincidence? There has to be a way to be sure you wont ruin a clutch with oils that say there safe. Anybody?

I just changed my oil with motorex synthetic. After a few days of riding here and there, my clutch went out. When I pulled cover off I discovered broken clutch pads. Coincidence? There has to be a way to be sure you wont ruin a clutch with oils that say there safe. Anybody?

I have used Mobil 1 on all my bikes and quads over the years. Not the 4T, just the regular 10w30 for me. Many of the other synthetics are bad for the clutch as mentioned in here already. My local mechanic swears by it and I trust him.

But this is from Mobil 1's site:

Question:
Any Reason Not to Use Mobil 1 Extended Performance in Motorcycles with Wet Clutches
Is there any reason that Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 Gold Cap shouldn't be used in a motorcycle with a wet clutch? Some additives in automotive oils that reduce friction are bad for a wet clutch.
-- John Gardner, San Diego, CA

Answer:
ExxonMobil’s primary recommendation for wet clutch applications is Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oil which is specifically designed to minimize the effects of friction modifiers contained in typical engine oils. These are have been optimized for the performance experienced in motorcycles including those with wet clutches.


But the 4T motorcycle oil makes them more money too....hmmm. For no extra cost from their pocket. My mechanic is a 30 year BMW tech and has owned his own MX shop for 20 years. He said if you want the extra piece of mind to pay a little more for the 4T.:)

[QUOTE=ibleedgreen;592447]I have used Mobil 1 on all my bikes and quads over the years. Not the 4T, just the regular 10w30 for me.

Your not talking about the same kind we use in our car are you?

do not put anything synthetic in your motor unless it says its made for your quad because it will kill the clutch

quick question about the filters, i bought a filter from Yamaha, and its a paper one, doesn't have a metal case around it... does the paper part come out of my old filter and I just put the new one in, or did I get the wrong filter?

quick question about the filters, i bought a filter from Yamaha, and its a paper one, doesn't have a metal case around it... does the paper part come out of my old filter and I just put the new one in, or did I get the wrong filter?

You have the wrong filter.

Awesome site.
Newbie to ATV's, so I bought my friends 05 660 tonight and was looking for a nice place to visit. Just might want to stay.
Love oil threads, as they are the best place to see what kinds of brains are lurking at a site.
First question, kind of rhetorical, but here goes;
Are the clutches in my Raptor wet clutches? Are they any different than the wet clutches on the motorcycles I've owned since the early 80's? If not, I am going to continue to use Mobil 1, formerly 20-50 with the red cap, but now 15-50 with the gold cap. The one that DOESN'T say ENERGY CONSERVING in the small circle at the back of the bottle. ;-)

Yamalube 4R 10w-50 has been my choice since day 1.

WIX makes NAPA. Put a "5" in front of a NAPA number and it is the WIX number.
NAPA 1356 = WIX 51356 ... pretty easy.

I personally use Purolator Pure 1, PL14610 or PL14620
The NAPA Gold 1356 would be my next choice.

The NAPA filters are black, (pretty sure).

The Specs on these replacement Raptor filters are:
Threads= 20 x 1.5mm
14psi by-pass valve
anti-drain back valve
2.3" O.D. gasket



Just took off an old yamaha filter while changing to a new gytr clutch (I used mobil oil with friction modifiers in it and killed the clutch) and attempted to install the napa gold 1356.

Like you said it is black, it screws on even, but it bottoms out on the shank (where the nut looking part is after the threads) of the tube it screws onto. I took it apart and discovered that the top of the threaded portion of this filter is barely below the sealing surface of the filter, and therefore it cant screw on far enough to seal (hits shank). I of coarse inspected the tube and it appears that its never been off and isnt damaged or backed out. I then inspected the yamaha filter and discovered that its threaded portion is recessed deeper into the filter, allowing it to seal w/o hitting the shank.

I have read that some run this filter w/o probs, but I dont see how. I either got a bad filter (will see tomorrow when I go back to napa), they changed the design, or it just doesnt fit the 660's. I did try to force it a little further on with an oil filter wrench but that didnt get it. Its a very small (maybe 1/4"-3/16") amount off. I could modify/ grind the shank or filter to make it work, but Im not into getting metal shavings in the filter and oil, or modifying something that should work already. I have an 05 660r fyi.

Hope this saves someone else a headache. Any ideas? Thanks

how do u know when to change the oil and how often should you?

how do u know when to change the oil and how often should you?

Im sure its in the owners manual. Download it from the sticky thread about it above this one, or do a search for it. I do mine every 3 rides or 15 hours. DO NOT USE REGULAR OIL! Get some shell "rotella t" 15-40 truck oil or use oil thats made for atvs and bikes. If you use regular oil you will likely ruin your clutch as I just did.


Thanks to all the folks on here I changed mine out myself (never done it on a atv, or bike) using their instructions..

every 15 hours haha ill be doing a lot of oil changing i guess :) i just got the yamalube 4 stroke oil it's 10w-40, is that the right oil for this type of weather it goes from like -1 celcius to like -25 celcius here? is that to thick of oil or do you need it to be thick in winter... i have no idea haha ???

every 15 hours haha ill be doing a lot of oil changing i guess :) i just got the yamalube 4 stroke oil it's 10w-40, is that the right oil for this type of weather it goes from like -1 celcius to like -25 celcius here? is that to thick of oil or do you need it to be thick in winter... i have no idea haha ???


Hotter = need thicker. colder = need thinner. I live in texas so 15-40 is perfect for me as I ride in the heat and needed a spal fan just to keep it cool. If you live up north where it goes below 30 alot Id run some 5-30 or 5 -40 rotella t synthetic. Down south use the 15-40 regular blend of rotella t. Rotella t is $10 a gallon so changing it alot isnt that bad, and since I know nothing about removing the motor Ill spend my time changing the oil to keep it in good shape.

I'm confused Yamalube is under $5 a quart ($20 a gallon) and it is what Yamaha recommends for use in the 660. What is the benefit to running a more expensive synthetic? Also was wondering if you guys change your filter every oil change or if you are letting the filter stay for 1 oil change?

one note
when checking the oil level make sure the oil is hot
ie motor has been runing for a couple of min


when the oil is cold you will get a lower oil level reading

New to Raptor world, would someone please advise on the right oil for my 2001 raptor 660r stock. 55hrs aprox in florida.
thanks.

Check your manual, Yamalube is just fine.

Check your manual, Yamalube is just fine.

Hey Mike

Are your running the Yamalube in your rig? After much debate I decided to go w/ the Amsoil 0w-40 with a napa (wix) filter it's almost the same price. Did i choose wrong?

Amsoil is fine, and the wix filter will work too. Yamalube is a good quality oil and easy for most people to find, so it makes a good default for those that do now know what they wish to run.

:clap::clap::clap:

:rofl:

This goes to the synthetic oil users out there. I recieved my delux one way clutch today and in the instructions they recommend not using syn oil.

What say you?

(not starting a fight, just wondering)

*newbie* 03 limited, just bought it the other day... do i need to take anything off to fill the oil tank? or does a funnel work just fine, then dump in the oil? i havn't looked too much at the oil tank and im at work right now, just curious...

just the funnel and pour it in

thats what i thought, thanks for the quick reply

i know this has been asked several times, but no one seems to answer. i was wondering what the benefit is to synthetic oil? they have some yamalube full synthetic and semi synthetic but they are both more expensive.

more performance, better protection, cooler running engine,
mike

are there any downfalls to using fully synthetic (other than price)? i could be wrong, but i thought i had read on here to stay away from synthetic oils.

always use synthetic oil in everything. there is no downside except the upfront cost of it.
mike

Same thread... new question (or maybe I'm just blind and didn't see it - I accept that as a possibility). :cool::cool::cool:

What's the recommended frequency for oil changes? I don't have an OWNER's manual (still waiting for it from the guy I bought it from... ::sigh::), and I looked in the service manual and don't see the answer there.

I just did my first oil change on my raptor an very good instructions , rappy is nice an happy now !

Great instructions... just got around to giving the rappy a good service (wasn't too problematic thanks for super instructions, I'm a mechanical virgin). New spark plug, oil filter, oil change, clean out the air filter.... couple of blown bulbs I need to replace. Replaced a broken plastics mount too.

Just need to get the replacement solenoid then its all plain sailing. Looking forward to getting out next weekend on it.

iam a raptor newbie, i was just wondering what keeps the oil from flowing down from the tank to the engine? seems like the lower part of the engine would fill up with oil, before the oil tank. is there something that could break and let the engine fill up before the tank? the guy i got my raptor from said he just changed the oil, but when i got home i noticed it was about 2 1/2 qts low. it still runs good so far and the motor does not seem to knock, but it does seem a little noisey when i rev it up, is this normal? what all do you think may of gotton damaged by being that low on oil, i rode it for about 30mins in about 15 min intervals before i noticed it was that low on oil.
BTY when i had my warrior a few years ago i changed the oil about 2 months after i got it then put yamalube 4 in it and i rode about 1 or 2 hours a day, and after a year the oil was not even close to being black, it was getting about time to change it but it got stolen. thats all i plan on buying YAMALUBE

There is a spring loaded check valve between the oil reserve tank and the case built into the cases oil lines.This only opens when the engine is running and has oil pressure. Check the sticky on how to properly fill a rappy with oil.

iam a raptor newbie, i was just wondering what keeps the oil from flowing down from the tank to the engine? seems like the lower part of the engine would fill up with oil, before the oil tank. is there something that could break and let the engine fill up before the tank? the guy i got my raptor from said he just changed the oil, but when i got home i noticed it was about 2 1/2 qts low. it still runs good so far and the motor does not seem to knock, but it does seem a little noisey when i rev it up, is this normal? what all do you think may of gotton damaged by being that low on oil, i rode it for about 30mins in about 15 min intervals before i noticed it was that low on oil.
BTY when i had my warrior a few years ago i changed the oil about 2 months after i got it then put yamalube 4 in it and i rode about 1 or 2 hours a day, and after a year the oil was not even close to being black, it was getting about time to change it but it got stolen. thats all i plan on buying YAMALUBE

WHOA!!!!! a Raptor takes less than 2.5 qts when its empty. I would read the manuals here ASAP. Also I would consider changing your oil atleast every every 20 hours. 1 year with no riding is wayyyyy to long let alone riding a few hours a day. JMO

WHOA!!!!! a Raptor takes less than 2.5 qts when its empty. I would read the manuals here ASAP. Also I would consider changing your oil atleast every every 20 hours. 1 year with no riding is wayyyyy to long let alone riding a few hours a day. JMO

Maybe some are different but my last oil change with a new filter took exactly 88 ounces (2.75 quarts). I incrementally measured every additional drop of oil after the initial filling as outlined in this thread's procedure. What I mean by "incrementally" was the addition of oil after starting the bike and letting the air escape and refilling - repeating and repeating until reaching the full mark on the dipstick.

Now at least I know what I need to add instead of adding 6 or 8 ounces at a time not knowing how fast that will react to the level on the dipstick.

WHOA!!!!! a Raptor takes less than 2.5 qts when its empty. I would read the manuals here ASAP. Also I would consider changing your oil atleast every every 20 hours. 1 year with no riding is wayyyyy to long let alone riding a few hours a day. JMO

iam glad i didnt change it much on the warrior, it got stolen anyway, and when i got it back it was blown up ,haha. i dont think i would of got it back if it wouldnt of blown up, becase the di** that had it moved and left the warrior behind

OK, so I didn't know about the wet clutch issue, and used the regular motor oil in my Raptor. I went and got Valvoline wet clutch 4 stroke ATV oil and a new filter. Do i just do a regular oil change, or should i try to flush it with something, say diesel or gasoline? Brake cleaner? Or just drain it well and put the right stuff in?

I did the oil change about three weeks ago, then took it to Pismo and rode the dickens out of it.

It doesn't misbehave, if I really screwed it up and it starts to come back at me later, what should I be watching for?

OK, so I didn't know about the wet clutch issue, and used the regular motor oil in my Raptor. I went and got Valvoline wet clutch 4 stroke ATV oil and a new filter. Do i just do a regular oil change, or should i try to flush it with something, say diesel or gasoline? Brake cleaner? Or just drain it well and put the right stuff in?

I did the oil change about three weeks ago, then took it to Pismo and rode the dickens out of it.

It doesn't misbehave, if I really screwed it up and it starts to come back at me later, what should I be watching for?

Change the oil and watch for slipping clutch.

I'm confused. Is Rotella 15w40 just a heavy duty oil or is it a diesel oil that you guys are using? Or is it just a really thick oil and that's what a diesel engine needs, and it just happens to work really well in motorcycle engines with wet clutches...? I already have a couple of filters, and I'm looking at alternatives to $8/qt Yamalube. I searched here and only found 3 threads that talk about Rotella. No one seems to really not like it, but it just seems odd that if it's that good there are only 3 threads on it...

I got a question to. I picked up a 660 has a project rebuild and it hasn't been run in quite some time. I'm in the process of doing a one way on it. For its maiden start up I just wanna use cheapo oil in case something needs to be tore apart. Not to mention its been sitting so I'd like to run it for a bit w/ cheap oil then change it again in which case I'd pick up a good oil. Whats the cheapest option for me?

anythign designed for a wet clutch, not sure havnt checked prices on the cheap oil
mike

Anybody have any input on that Rotella question? I have been wondering the same thing.

From everything I've read, it looks like Rotella 5w40 is the way to go up north, and for people down in Florida like myself, the 15w40 is a tad bit better of a choice since I'll be changing the oil every few rides anyway. I'm just curious if it is a diesel oil, and if there are any differences besides weight in diesel vs reg oils.

Hey man thx for teaching me changin the oil, now I can go on my raptor looking at the AWESOME display of the blasting volcano here on Iceland... One of our glaisier is going off and ewerybody that has snomobiles and ATV are there.... Now I can join em...

ya im new to the raptor 66o i just bought a 02 and i went to change oil and i did every thing i was told and when i put the 1.75 quarts in the tank and started it up then went to check it the damn oil just poured out as soon as i removed the dipstick. i dont know what to do now, i pulled the plug at the bottom of motor and it was dry. oil pump bad? plugged line? i don't know i need some advise.

Don't open the oil tank when the motor is running. You need to shut it off first let it rest for 5 mins then check it.

ya, i know that but i let it sit and it still over flows i even let it sit over night and it still over flows out when i pull out the dip stick, does the hose coming out of the bottom of the tank haver some kind of check valve that could be stuck i thought i read some where that it could happen i just hom it aint the oil pump..

Hi all been reading all of these oil threads after looking for other threads on knocking sounds from my quad and causes. Just bought my first quad 660 2003.
Bloody hell you have to change the oil every 20 hours and filter, man I must of done over that in my first week! This is going to be an expensive toy/main vehichle. Might have to sell this. I sold my bmw and bought this because I thought that was expensive oil burner! I am tempted to go outside with a tourch and check my oil. :eek:
So many choices of oils and views. I live on one of the smaller Canary Islands will normal motorbike oil for wet clutch be ok as I doubt they have much choice here. The oil filters is just screw off and replace the whole thing like on a car. Or I thought i saw on ebay K&N where you just replace the inner filter and keep the casing. What are the limits of changing oil and filters?Thanks Oh yer and which oil 20/40? temp doesnt between 16c min and 30ish when I will be using it
How many tanks roughly of petrol is 20 hours

If you've read all the threads, you will have seen probably twice as many opinions.

The only thing that really matters is that you use a decent quality oil that is wet clutch compatible.

If you ride hard, then 20 hours is a good time to change. If you just cruise, you can double it or more without worryinig much. Just use common sense.

You can use filters made for Mazda Miata's - here in the states we can get them at Walmart for $2.50

Figure somewhere around 50 miles per tank, around 2 hours at average speeds.

Hard work finding some oil I got Castrol off road increased power new formula tri zone 4t sae 10w-40. I guess its ok as it has pictures of quads on it! 16 euros 20 dollars for one litre. This is going to be more expensive than my car:o
I needed to put 600ml to get it back to the max on the dipstick not the letter F but where the marking are. Do you think my engine is ruined:eek:
I think I will just buy this next time what do you reckon doing my head in reading about all these oils on the net
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270458133147&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3D R40%26_trksid%3Dp4712.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D27045813 3147%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

you should add the list of compatible/non yamaha oil filters you can use

has anyone used mobile 1 v-twin 20w-50 full synthetic? I live in the Ca desert and it gets up to 112 f. it says it is wet clutch approved. I bought some today at autozone but am having second thought about using it. Any input would be helpful.

mobil1 is at the bottom of the list for a synthetic oil. spend alot and get amsoil or spend alot less and get rotella, either way you will be very happy with those 2 choices.
and 20w50 is to thick of an oil for a raptor
mike

Just changed the oil today. Bought 3qt Yamalube 10W50 Semi-Synthetic and it's just fine. I got it for 16$ per quart. The engine took 2.5 qts and the oil is 3/4 on the dipstick but i won't fill anymore for about now. I'll check the level after the next ride and decide whether i should fill it to the "F" mark on the dipstick.

$16 a qt is way to much for yamajunk. where are you at. there has to be a better option for you.
mike

$16 a qt is way to much for yamajunk. where are you at. there has to be a better option for you.
mike

I believe he's in Bulgaria, in which case I have no idea what his oil options are but I'm sure the prices are much greater than what we pay in the states, just about everything we have costs more on the East side of the Atlantic.

that would make sence, i was wondering what BG was

If you've read all the threads, you will have seen probably twice as many opinions.

The only thing that really matters is that you use a decent quality oil that is wet clutch compatible.

If you ride hard, then 20 hours is a good time to change. If you just cruise, you can double it or more without worryinig much. Just use common sense.

You can use filters made for Mazda Miata's - here in the states we can get them at Walmart for $2.50

Figure somewhere around 50 miles per tank, around 2 hours at average speeds.

what year miata? i pay way to much for my filters

what year miata? i pay way to much for my filters

You can use a Honda Element (any year) oil filter aswell..:D

You got me, BG is Bulgaria yeah. Well I have pretty much choice between oil brands, and i was wondering between the oil i just filled the machine with (Yamalube), Motul Power Quad 10W40, Motul 300V 10W40, Castrol Power 1 Off Road 4T 10W40 & one more, but finally i choose Yamalube. I don't know if my choice is right, what would you say? I will change it after two months anyway, and then i hope I'll fill the machine with AMSOIL or sth else from these above... And the prices here are not low at all, 16$ are about 23 lev. The USD- BGN exchange rate is : 1USD = 1.53BGN. So i thought the price is high enough and thats one of the reasons I choose the Yamalube...

You can use a Honda Element (any year) oil filter aswell..:D

thanks man

baha your best bet if you can find it is rotella. in the states we get it at walmart cheap and is a top notch oil. with your prices you might like this as your best option.
mike

Is Rotella a Shell brand? Becouse i'm looking in google for rotella in bg and everything is related with Shell... I'm not sure about rotella, i heared not good stories about these lubricants... I decidet that the next change, i'm gonna use Amsoil or Motul 300V. What is your oppinion for these 2 and about the Motorex oil, if you have such in the states?

Is Rotella a Shell brand? Becouse i'm looking in google for rotella in bg and everything is related with Shell... I'm not sure about rotella, i heared not good stories about these lubricants... I decidet that the next change, i'm gonna use Amsoil or Motul 300V. What is your oppinion for these 2 and about the Motorex oil, if you have such in the states?

AMSoli is good stuff & so is Rotilla..IMO

the only 2 oils i will use is rotella and amsoil. i personally use amsoil all the time cause im a dealer but if i was in a pinch or ran out i would get rotella and nothing else.
mike

You can use a Honda Element (any year) oil filter aswell..:D

Tried this with no luck. While it fits and seems to be very similar, the filter would bottom out before the gasket made contact to the engine. I ordered for a 2004 element. I have a 2005 Raptor.

What about blenzol for 4 strokes? Is it safe?

You can also buy Wix oil filter from O'Reilly's or NAPA. For all who don't know Wix is one of the highest quality filters you can buy.

Search Results 2002 yamaha 660 Raptor
Part Part No. Engine
Air Filter 24298 YFM660 Raptor 660cc YFM660 Raptor
Oil Filter 51358 YFM660 Raptor 660cc YFM660 Raptor

I got a 2001 660 raptor.I really hope an oil change will give the thing some power.When I bought it,the guy said it had a bigger piston so I thought it would fly or at least would lift the front end when I really hit the gas.Iv replaced the spark plug took carb apart.

The jets wernt clogged.I made sure the valves were spaced properly.The front end still wont pop up.Maybe I aint lettin the clutch go fast enough?Got plenty of throttel.It bogs out in 3rd,4th and 5th.What is the problem?Can someone help me please?

Yes, someone probably can, but you need to make your own thread. This one is just for information on changing the oil.

Just bought a 03 raptor 660 needs an oil change dont know anything about them. can someone tell me just what kind of oil and oil filter i live in eastern ky so summers are around 75 to 95 deg. thanks

From the first post of this thread, which is from the manual.


C. Which Weight of OIL? Refering to the manual, 30degrees F to 120degrees F use 20W40, 10degrees F to 95degrees F use 10W30, Under 30degrees F use 5W30 but at this stage you should be running the SNOWMOBILE! Basically the hotter the weather the thicker the oil and the colder the weather the thinner the oil.

just bought rotella t 15w40 and fram PF6017a(advance auto $7).....less than $20 for everything.

I use Valvoline ATV 10w40 4stroke oil in my Kawasaki , and I plan to use that in my Raptor. They also both take the same filter , for that I use a NAPA # 1358 , same as Wix 51358