Willy any suggestions for a new/better spark plug wire and coil or should I stick with oem? Either way I think im going to replace it since its 9 years old.
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2004 719 11:1 in progress: WK ported head, CT Pipe/jets, Stage 2 Hotcam and springs, Proflow foam filter and Outerwear, 12/39 sidewinder titanium sprockets and smart chain, barnett clutch, hinson basket,+4 axle, +2 arms, adjustable rear link, braided brake lines, Renthal bars, and some big F'in TEETH!
Willy any suggestions for a new/better spark plug wire and coil or should I stick with oem? Either way I think im going to replace it since its 9 years old.
Stock works great.
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686 three plugger with HV porting, 39 FCRS, Curtis Sparks exhaust, Dyna FS CDI
Well since this seems to be a bit of a collective build thread thus far, I hope the OP doesn't mind that I get in on the action with a similar rebuild with a slightly lower budget (Geared toward the reliability crowd more than big power crowd). I'll wait to post my specs and plans before I do a full on thread hijack though.
However, I would like to ask a couple questions right off the bat....
Concerning the Kibblewhite valves, they are obviously much easier to get a hold of compared to Ferrea valves. However, I have heard many horror stories about Kibblewhite valves.
Supposedly they are not a true 1 piece valve, but rather starts as 2 pieces which are friction welded together and machined. The Suzuki crowd seems to have been hit the worst with issues from KW valves based on my reading, but they apparently are known to break right at that friction weld, which is on the transition from straight stem to the flare outward to the head of the valve. Another thing that worries me is the stellite tip coating, how much good does it really do, and will there be any special break in procedures needed that could negatively affect the break in of the rest of the engine? (like running at a very high idle for X amount of minutes, etc.).
This really discourages me from purchasing KW valves, considering my budget, I really can't afford to have a valve break and shred my top end. However, considering they are similar in price to Ferrea valves, is it really worth the ease of obtaining KW valves to go with them vs. Ferrea? Or are the horror stories I have read about KW valves limited to a select few models and generally considered good for the 660? Anyone here have personal experience with KW valves in their 660?
My next concern is I have an 11:1 CP piston and a 102mm bored cylinder to match, but I've read this leaves the stock sleeve pretty thin around the base. For a mild build (this will not be some 60HP monster drag bike/duner), am I likely to ever have much of an issue because of this, or am I just over thinking things a bit?
My background is more in the full size four wheeling arena, trucks/buggies/etc., land of the often overbuilt, and mentality of "If it can break, it will break/if it's not on 1 tons or built 9''s, it's no good", so I tend to over think things that need not be over thought. I'm all about reliability without too much filler/bs/things I don't need involved whenever possible. I am not a newbie to mechanical things, and I am not the slightest bit intimidated by a complete rebuild of this quad engine, even though I've never messed with one before. I just don't know what's good and what sucks in the ATV aftermarket.
Well since this seems to be a bit of a collective build thread thus far, I hope the OP doesn't mind that I get in on the action with a similar rebuild with a slightly lower budget (Geared toward the reliability crowd more than big power crowd). I'll wait to post my specs and plans before I do a full on thread hijack though.
However, I would like to ask a couple questions right off the bat....
Concerning the Kibblewhite valves, they are obviously much easier to get a hold of compared to Ferrea valves. However, I have heard many horror stories about Kibblewhite valves.
Supposedly they are not a true 1 piece valve, but rather starts as 2 pieces which are friction welded together and machined. The Suzuki crowd seems to have been hit the worst with issues from KW valves based on my reading, but they apparently are known to break right at that friction weld, which is on the transition from straight stem to the flare outward to the head of the valve. Another thing that worries me is the stellite tip coating, how much good does it really do, and will there be any special break in procedures needed that could negatively affect the break in of the rest of the engine? (like running at a very high idle for X amount of minutes, etc.).
This really discourages me from purchasing KW valves, considering my budget, I really can't afford to have a valve break and shred my top end. However, considering they are similar in price to Ferrea valves, is it really worth the ease of obtaining KW valves to go with them vs. Ferrea? Or are the horror stories I have read about KW valves limited to a select few models and generally considered good for the 660? Anyone here have personal experience with KW valves in their 660?
My next concern is I have an 11:1 CP piston and a 102mm bored cylinder to match, but I've read this leaves the stock sleeve pretty thin around the base. For a mild build (this will not be some 60HP monster drag bike/duner), am I likely to ever have much of an issue because of this, or am I just over thinking things a bit?
My background is more in the full size four wheeling arena, trucks/buggies/etc., land of the often overbuilt, and mentality of "If it can break, it will break/if it's not on 1 tons or built 9''s, it's no good", so I tend to over think things that need not be over thought. I'm all about reliability without too much filler/bs/things I don't need involved whenever possible. I am not a newbie to mechanical things, and I am not the slightest bit intimidated by a complete rebuild of this quad engine, even though I've never messed with one before. I just don't know what's good and what sucks in the ATV aftermarket.
Ill make a few suggestions...
Use ferrea valves, I had a KW valve break and it destroyed the engine, I can post pictures if you want........
Use my oil mod.............
Use a better then stock rod......Hot rod connecting rod is good..........
Dont use a Hot Rod stroker crank...........There are lots that broke..........
Use OEM clutch plates with heavy duty springs and aftermarket basket....
Use a three plug head..........
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686 three plugger with HV porting, 39 FCRS, Curtis Sparks exhaust, Dyna FS CDI
Ill make a few suggestions...
Use ferrea valves, I had a KW valve break and it destroyed the engine, I can post pictures if you want........
Use my oil mod.............
Use a better then stock rod......Hot rod connecting rod is good..........
Dont use a Hot Rod stroker crank...........There are lots that broke..........
Use OEM clutch plates with heavy duty springs and aftermarket basket....
Use a three plug head..........
+1..
__________________ 01 Raptor 686R, Willykiller 3 Pluger...2nd build under construction
Yup, stick with WK's suggestions & you should do pretty well.
Supposedly the hotrods crank issues were all fixed, but mine was only 30 hours old when it let go.
I was lucky it didn't destroy the entire engine.
The bill to rebuild is up to $2k & climbing though!
will be stock stroke/carillo rod/105mm, crank & counter-ballancer fully trued/ballanced/welded ................
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2003 Raptor 660LE
719cc
HR +4 Crank with Kenz 102mm 13.5:1 piston
X-4 cam & no decomp
39mm FCR's
HV ported Willykiller 3-Plug head
Ferrea SS Valves
Custom In-Frame Duals
GYTR Clutch
Faast Flexx Bars
Custom +3+1 A-Arms
CCP Steering Damper (I must post a thread on how to....)
450 Front Calipers
+2 Extended Swingarm
G-Force Axle & Hubs.
Axis Pro-Air Shocks
Tusk Nerfs
01 Raptor 686R, Willykiller 3 Pluger...2nd build under construction
Linear Mode
