Hi all the other link in the stickied thread didn't work so here is a link on very detailed instructions on checking your valve clearance: http://raptor.popolz.com/adjust.html
If your raptor is sort of hard to start I would defiantly check into this. I should have done a before and after video on the way mine started and starts now. Its night and day difference. Good luck!
__________________ 2001 660 Yoshi RS-3 full, K&N Pro Flow, jetted,Dr.D Reverse, maxis rears, nerfs,shock covers,YFZ 450 Fronts,G-force extended hubs,GYTR Bumper
2003 CBR 600rr, scorpion pipe, flush mounts, etc..= FUN
I don't recall seeing a valve clearance sticky but it is outlined in the factory service manual. I may have seen that link posted here before but not recently, thanks for the link.
One thing overlooked in this link (and in the manual):
They both state that if a feeler gauge won't fit in the intake valves, you are on the wrong stroke and should turn the crankshaft one more turn. This is correct, as long as the valves have not worn tight, which is common with the Raptor. In some cases the intake valves have worn so tight that there is NO clearance, and the bike has begun to lose compression when cold - making it hard to start when cold.
Instead of using this method to determine TDC compression, I watch the exhaust valves until they are nearly closed and at the same time the intake valves until they JUST start to open - you should see (or just have seen) the I in the inspection window. I then turn a full turn until the I comes up again, and there's been no valve motion for the last half turn (Willy likes to rock the crankshaft back and forth at this point to verify there's no valve motion).
This guarantees that you are at TDC compression stroke - the proper place to adjust valves.
__________________ '01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'02 Honda 400ex, DiamondJ +3 A-arm widener, Lonestar anti-vibe
3 scooters - 150, 180, 250
'73 Yamaha CT3-175 Enduro (currently under restoration)
'08 Can-Am Spyder SE5 - my Baby!
And the newest toy destined to suck up all my spare time and money: 2000 Jaguar XJ8
Last edited by QuadManiac; 02-24-2010 at 11:48 PM.
One thing overlooked in this link (and in the manual):
They both state that if a feeler gauge won't fit in the intake valves, you are on the wrong stroke and should turn the crankshaft one more turn. This is correct, as long as the valves have not worn tight, which is common with the Raptor. In some cases the intake valves have worn so tight that there is NO clearance, and the bike has begun to lose compression when cold - making it hard to start when cold.
Instead of using this method to determine TDC compression, I watch the exhaust valves until they are nearly closed and at the same time the intake valves until they JUST start to open - you should see (or just have seen) the I in the inspection window. I then turn a full turn until the I comes up again, and there's been no valve motion for the last half turn (Willy likes to rock the crankshaft back and forth at this point to verify there's no valve motion).
This guarantees that you are at TDC compression stroke - the proper place to adjust valves.
I just love setting up valves, years ago when I did a fair amount of ATV pulling, we had to have a stock engine, which of course I didn't, one thing they checked for was aftermarket cams, and as most people know, they have a rather loud ticking noise, I set my valves at about .002'' intake and the exhaust at about .0035'', this kept the valve trains noise to none existant levels, I got to have my big cam and noone knew..........
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686 three plugger with HV porting, 39 FCRS, Curtis Sparks exhaust, Dyna FS CDI
How to: Check valve clearance
Linear Mode
