Output Shaft Fix - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
MRB
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Output Shaft Fix

Hi,
I have a 2001 Yamaha warrior 350. Yesterday when I was riding, the nut that holds the front sprocket came off, and after closer inspection I saw that the threads on the output shaft that holds the nut were stripped. They were stripped down to nothing. So I am wondering if I can just re tap this shaft for a slightly smaller nut, and call that good to hold the sprocket? I would much rather do this than to have to replace the entire shaft and take apart the engine. If I can do this, is there any specific thread type (coarse or fine, right hand, left hand, etc.) I should use? Or will this not work and I am best off replacing the whole shaft? Thanks for the help
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 09:22 AM
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I think you already know the answer..... sorry

07' Raptor 700- 11:1, hotcam 3, Pro design intake with K&N, +3 throttle body, Monster big bore duals, MSD with cuervo timing, JOGACA shocks, trail tech VAPOR, GYTR heel guards & bumper & nerfs, .250 aluminum skids, TM case saver, folding anodized levers and shifter, powermadd hand guards

04' raptor 660-Hot rods crank, .5mm overbore, 11:1 wiseco piston, Stage 1 hotcam, Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, K&N filter with outerwears, open lid airbox, Dynojet stage 2 jet kit
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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I am not quite sure. I am thinking that you are saying I should replace the whole thing. Why wouldn't re threading for a new nut work?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 4stroker4life View Post
I think you already know the answer..... sorry
If there are any threads left you may be able to clean it up with a metric thread file or a die of the same size. The shaft is hardened so cutting to a different size won't work. It's possible to weld the sprocket to get thru the riding season, then fix it in the winter. However, it may come loose again and leave you far from home.

2007 RAPTOR 700, SAND QUAD, 11:1 CP, +5 HR CRANK, PC3, +2 TB, LONE STAR XC +1, +1 A-ARMS, HD TIE RODS, JOGACA REAR SHOCK, ASV LEVERS, +4 REAR AXLE, DR.D REVERSE, ODI GRIPS, 1 1/8 CARBON BARS, DG BUMPER. BILLET: GAS CAP, BRAKE COVER, THROTTLE LEVER, BAR MOUNTS. LED LIGHTS'
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Oh that stinks. How difficult would it be to just replace the whole shaft myself?
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 12:19 PM
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I don't have a 350 but I would start with your manual and decide your capilibies.

2007 RAPTOR 700, SAND QUAD, 11:1 CP, +5 HR CRANK, PC3, +2 TB, LONE STAR XC +1, +1 A-ARMS, HD TIE RODS, JOGACA REAR SHOCK, ASV LEVERS, +4 REAR AXLE, DR.D REVERSE, ODI GRIPS, 1 1/8 CARBON BARS, DG BUMPER. BILLET: GAS CAP, BRAKE COVER, THROTTLE LEVER, BAR MOUNTS. LED LIGHTS'
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 12:21 PM
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You need to open the bottom end to do it. If your confident in that, then its not that bad. If youve never tore that far into one it may be a little intimidating. Just depends on your ability and confidence really.

07' Raptor 700- 11:1, hotcam 3, Pro design intake with K&N, +3 throttle body, Monster big bore duals, MSD with cuervo timing, JOGACA shocks, trail tech VAPOR, GYTR heel guards & bumper & nerfs, .250 aluminum skids, TM case saver, folding anodized levers and shifter, powermadd hand guards

04' raptor 660-Hot rods crank, .5mm overbore, 11:1 wiseco piston, Stage 1 hotcam, Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, K&N filter with outerwears, open lid airbox, Dynojet stage 2 jet kit
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I have never torn into an engine before, so it is abit intimidating. I don't wanna screw anything up and now have a non working machine
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 01:49 PM
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Check with your riding friends for some help. You may find one that has experience with this. We all have to start like you.
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2007 RAPTOR 700, SAND QUAD, 11:1 CP, +5 HR CRANK, PC3, +2 TB, LONE STAR XC +1, +1 A-ARMS, HD TIE RODS, JOGACA REAR SHOCK, ASV LEVERS, +4 REAR AXLE, DR.D REVERSE, ODI GRIPS, 1 1/8 CARBON BARS, DG BUMPER. BILLET: GAS CAP, BRAKE COVER, THROTTLE LEVER, BAR MOUNTS. LED LIGHTS'
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Can I do this Fix while the engine is still mounted on the frame, or will I have to pull the whole thing?
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