Toy hauler - Page 3 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 04:03 PM
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Elcid - Check caulking yearly, over time it shrinks. I need to do that on my 2015 as well. Dicor is preferred for the roofs. Word of caution, they do have a 1 year shelf life and do not state date on individual tubes but they do on the cases they come in. Either ask to see the case box they came in or buy from Dicor direct. My Father in law found this tidbit out last summer doing his truck trailer.

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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by elcid View Post
Dezperado: My toy hauler is a 2015, when do I need to get it re caulk? yearly ? etc? I should start thinking about that
As soon as you can get it warmed and dried out. If you're good with a caulk gun and silicone caulk, do it yourself. Or any RV shop can do it for a fee. Some shops will pressurize the inside, spray the outside protrusions with soap water and look for air bubbles. Most manufactures won't warranty any water damage if not scraped and resealed every year. In the mean time, don't store it level. Drop or raise the tongue, or tilt side to side to allow rain runoff. Where T-Web in Oregon, and I live in Washington it's basically Rain Forest condition and lots of moisture. You may have the same conditions on your side of the border.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Most that are doing fiberglass walls are doing "vacuum bonded". A plastic bag as such is laid out on a big bench, a length of Filon (fiberglass) is laid on top, then the foam insulation with wood or aluminum framing around window, door, awning wire runs and other mounting areas, (Not all manufactures do framing), then the inner wall paneling is laid on top, (or bottom if reversed). A moisture activated adhesive is added between layers. Then the bag is sealed over the whole assembly and a vacuum is pulled and everything is cured as a complete assembly. This makes a very strong and structural wall. Windows, doors, and other holes are routed out. Aluminum siding is usually stapled to wood framing with fiberglass batting insulation in the walls. I like Filon walls as being better built, although heavier, however aluminum is easier to repair if damaged. You can Google Filon, vacuum bonded and stick framing for info.
The being easier to repair when damaged is what’s got me thinking aluminum. Even with my parents trailer being re-caulked every other year and the roof re-sealed after 5 years, they still ended up having a pretty major leak problem which resulted in rebuilding half the side of the trailer.

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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by morphrider View Post
Elcid - Check caulking yearly, over time it shrinks. I need to do that on my 2015 as well. Dicor is preferred for the roofs. Word of caution, they do have a 1 year shelf life and do not state date on individual tubes but they do on the cases they come in. Either ask to see the case box they came in or buy from Dicor direct. My Father in law found this tidbit out last summer doing his truck trailer.
My son tells me there is another caulk that's better then silicone, but I don't know the name. For any roof Dicor is good and I haven't had trouble with shelf life as long as it's not a open tube. I also like #5504 roof sealant by Schnee Morehead. Be forewarned, they are both runny, but easily spread with a throw away cheap paint brush.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by t web2007 View Post
The being easier to repair when damaged is what’s got me thinking aluminum. Even with my parents trailer being re-caulked every other year and the roof re-sealed after 5 years, they still ended up having a pretty major leak problem which resulted in rebuilding half the side of the trailer.
5 years is way to long for a roof. Was the leak caused because of the slide out or roof. With Filon, aluminum structure and foam insulation the only wood is interior paneling. If the paneling is damaged, it can be replaced without side wall damage. With stick and aluminum the wood and fiberglass insulation gets wet and everything needs replacement. The Filon is more resistant to damage then even a lawn chair against aluminum.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
5 years is way to long for a roof. Was the leak caused because of the slide out or roof. With Filon, aluminum structure and foam insulation the only wood is interior paneling. If the paneling is damaged, it can be replaced without side wall damage. With stick and aluminum the wood and fiberglass insulation gets wet and everything needs replacement. The Filon is more resistant to damage then even a lawn chair against aluminum.
They believe it was from the slide out. Like you said, it wicked quite a ways. Ended up having to cut away a majority of the fiberglass from the slide forward to replace the wood underneath.

2015 700Rse
Fci, PC5F/I, monster exhaust, +2 Cuervo head, HDD5150, 54mm throttle body, 105.5 14:1, +8 swingarm.
08 yfz450se
Sparks big core, k&n no lid, yz needle, yz timing mod, +4 swingarm.
“Peepshow”
Cuervo 870, lectron, msd, monster megs, single a-arm lightened chasis, +14 swingarm.
”Monarchy”
Cuervo 930, lectron, msd, db fab titanium chasis.
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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
My son tells me there is another caulk that's better then silicone, but I don't know the name. For any roof Dicor is good and I haven't had trouble with shelf life as long as it's not a open tube. I also like #5504 roof sealant by Schnee Morehead. Be forewarned, they are both runny, but easily spread with a throw away cheap paint brush.
thanks for the tip! you are wealth of info! your input is much appreciated!
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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 05:08 PM
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thanks for the tip! you are wealth of info! your input is much appreciated!
Lol, I've forgotten more then most people will ever know. But I'm old too!

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by morphrider View Post
Elcid - Check caulking yearly, over time it shrinks. I need to do that on my 2015 as well. Dicor is preferred for the roofs. Word of caution, they do have a 1 year shelf life and do not state date on individual tubes but they do on the cases they come in. Either ask to see the case box they came in or buy from Dicor direct. My Father in law found this tidbit out last summer doing his truck trailer.
I guess I better start watching youtube videos on how to do this! boy, this hobby sure takes time! once it stops raining here, I guess I better do it. I am guessing I need to peel off the old stuff before putting the new stuffs in?


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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 05:36 PM
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WELCOME TO THE FORUM Mitch.

Are you planning on going to the NW Raptor Rally, May 17 - 20, Winchester Bay, Or??
Thanks! I'm not sure if i'll make that or not. Ill let you know!
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