YFZ 450 R1 build - Page 3 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #21 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 05:28 PM
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Dude this is gonna be a BAD bike! I cant wait to see it finished. Keep the pics coming! Its looking good

11:1 Wiseco Piston,102mm Bore, Barker 3 Plughead w/ HV port, Ferrea +1 Valves, Barker Duals, X4 Cam, 39mm FCR's, Twin-air Power-flo, Dynatek Programmable Ignition, L&A Oneway, Driveline Clutch w/Kenz Lockout, YFZ Calipers, YFZ shocks, ASV F3 Pro Levers, Flex Bars, 12/41 Renthal Sprockets, Gytr Heel guards, Gytr Frame Guards, Full Gytr skid plates, Tusk Nerfs, Power shifter, Oversized Aluminum Oil Tank, Oversized Radiator, CV4 Blue hoses,
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post #22 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo7hundo View Post
I can't tell....are u attaching the frame, engine, and swinger all on the same mount? I can't tell where the back engine mount is
Took a picture so you could see


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post #23 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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got the rest of the bottom tube done

decided not to get the tubing bent (no one in my area does mandrel bending) so I just angled it in there and I think it looks good


Last edited by richardmata; 02-10-2012 at 07:12 PM.
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post #24 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 11:13 PM
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anymore updates on this build? im about to start a raptor street bike build. have you read much about the motor sprocket placement?


Bone stock for now
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post #25 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnss View Post
anymore updates on this build? im about to start a raptor street bike build. have you read much about the motor sprocket placement?
I haven't gotten the chance to get much more done, work has picked up and I came down with the flu at the same time... as far as the sprocket placement goes you want the drive sprocket on the motor as close to the swing arm pivot as possible and 1"-1 1/2" above it
If you mock it up similar to this with a laser or chain on your sprockets you can make sure your sprockets are perfectly aligned (NOTE* I took this picture for fun and as you can see the drive sprocket is sitting to high and in reality would need to be lowered into that 1"-1 1/2" range)


Last edited by richardmata; 02-25-2012 at 12:38 PM.
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post #26 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Gotboost View Post
An o-ring will last longer but you'll lose 3-4hp using one.
You're #'s are way off. I've actually tested a conventional chain vs. X-ring and it showed a .3 HP difference. The O and X-ring has more resistance than a conventional chain, but once the O and X-ring chains heat up they have less drag than a conventional chain. My testing was done with both chains at room temp so the #'s will change even more (equalling less power loss in favor of very small gain) once the chain reaches operating temp.

'08 700SE
PCV w/Timing
DMC Force 4 Duals
Monster Flow Intake
K&N Air Filter
Outerware Pre Filter
Pro Tec lid
Dynatek Ignition Coil
Moose Dual Gasser Throttle
Urethane A-Arm Bushings
T.M. Designworks Case Saver
Alba Pro Elite Steering Stabilizer
Alba Front Spacers
Pirelli Race Rail XC (front)
Duro Berm Raider (rear)
Oury Grips
All Balls Wheel Bearings
Blue Wire Mod
RK 520EXW Gold XW-RING Chain
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post #27 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 07:12 PM
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Cool build, can't wait to see this done

'08 700SE
PCV w/Timing
DMC Force 4 Duals
Monster Flow Intake
K&N Air Filter
Outerware Pre Filter
Pro Tec lid
Dynatek Ignition Coil
Moose Dual Gasser Throttle
Urethane A-Arm Bushings
T.M. Designworks Case Saver
Alba Pro Elite Steering Stabilizer
Alba Front Spacers
Pirelli Race Rail XC (front)
Duro Berm Raider (rear)
Oury Grips
All Balls Wheel Bearings
Blue Wire Mod
RK 520EXW Gold XW-RING Chain
Graphics Delete
15/38
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post #28 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAVA View Post
You're #'s are way off. I've actually tested a conventional chain vs. X-ring and it showed a .3 HP difference. The O and X-ring has more resistance than a conventional chain, but once the O and X-ring chains heat up they have less drag than a conventional chain. My testing was done with both chains at room temp so the #'s will change even more (equalling less power loss in favor of very small gain) once the chain reaches operating temp.
good info, I wasn't thinking that there was that much power loss either

Did a little more work to finish up the bottom of the frame
* the cardboard represents a gusset I will make that'll wrap all the way around that tube like what was there on the stock frame


Last edited by richardmata; 02-26-2012 at 01:05 AM.
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post #29 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-27-2012, 11:29 PM
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Nice work so far.looks like your building this with a 07-08 r1 motor? or am i wrong? I was planning on keeping my sprocket in the same location as the factory 700 sprocket. i know the motor will sit a bit closer to the front of the bike than the 700 motor did. but i'm hoping to keep it about the stock height or as close as possible.


Bone stock for now
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post #30 of 83 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 01:17 AM
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shizzle.....youa re using the stock sprocket carrier/hub with the bigger sprocket? I couldn't get mine off the stock axle. kinda pissed me off. i think I'm gonna do some more work on mine tomorrow. I've been a bit busy with work and kinda las=zy lol

Slo7hundo

2006 yammy raptor 700r (currently) boasting a Hot Rods stroker cam, high compression pistons, and port polished heads with exhaust and k&n filter. pc5, fuel injection is a beautiful thing!


in progress: 2005 ZX10 engine install
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