Tps voltage - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Tps voltage

Recently installed a new TPS. my meter didn't go to two decimal points so I used an educated guess to get it between 0.63 and 0.73. It was showing 0.6 on my meter and flicking to 0.7. When I was zeroing my TPS on the power commander I noticed the voltage at idle was around 0.571 ish. Should I use the PCV software while manually moving my TPS to set the voltage voltage?

>Fast flex bars>Rox Antivibe>Pillow Soft Grips>A/C Front Bumper>PRM 6 Pack Rack>GYTR Nerfs >GYTR skids>Barker Duals>ARP Headstuds>CP 11.5:1 Tech Piston>FCI>PCV/Ignition/Autotune>DL700's Timing Curve>Stage 4 elkas triple rate LT>+2 houser LT>Speed sensor hack>15 T front sprocket>Clutch Plate Mod&HD springs>Cuervo +1 ported head>+3 TB>DL's 5050 cam>Elka Stage 4 Dual rate rear>+3 Swinger>Alba +4 axle>72.9 hp & 61.5 [email protected] front sprocket

Last edited by 700craptor; 10-10-2017 at 07:50 AM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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So the PCV soft ware worked great for setting the voltage on the TPS. No need to skin wires. You see what the ECU sees not the meter. Just used the TPS calibration in the power commander tool.
My voltage is now set at .667v for min and 4.17v for max.
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>Fast flex bars>Rox Antivibe>Pillow Soft Grips>A/C Front Bumper>PRM 6 Pack Rack>GYTR Nerfs >GYTR skids>Barker Duals>ARP Headstuds>CP 11.5:1 Tech Piston>FCI>PCV/Ignition/Autotune>DL700's Timing Curve>Stage 4 elkas triple rate LT>+2 houser LT>Speed sensor hack>15 T front sprocket>Clutch Plate Mod&HD springs>Cuervo +1 ported head>+3 TB>DL's 5050 cam>Elka Stage 4 Dual rate rear>+3 Swinger>Alba +4 axle>72.9 hp & 61.5 [email protected] front sprocket
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-19-2017, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Got out for a ride on the frozen creeks behind my town after I properly adjusting the by pass and idle screws and resetting all the powercammander software and TPS properly. First by warming it up. Shut it off. Backed out bypas screw until no tension on spring behind screw. Started it, turned idle screw out until it sounded like its about to stall. 900-800 rpm. Then turned by pass screw in until idle came up to 1500-1600 rpm. Then used the powercammander software to set the voltage of the TPS by manually moving the TPS until I saw the voltage on the screen between.63 and .73 volts. Tightened down TPS with final voltage of .67v. Reset the max and min throttle positions voltages in the calibration tool and done.
It doesn't go into a super high idle when cold starting. Just a little bit higher than normal when cold starting. Doesn't go back into high idle when restarted warm. Actually starts first push of the button not start and shut off after 10-15 secs. Then restart fine.
I think I got it.
In another thread I mentioned a guy played with my by pass screw trying to tell me it was the idle. 1200 buck later for a pile of new sensors and electronics and it was the air bypass screw.
I hope this helps other people. When installing those new throttle bodies you should follow this process. I'd even go a little lower on the idle before you turn the bypass screw in.

>Fast flex bars>Rox Antivibe>Pillow Soft Grips>A/C Front Bumper>PRM 6 Pack Rack>GYTR Nerfs >GYTR skids>Barker Duals>ARP Headstuds>CP 11.5:1 Tech Piston>FCI>PCV/Ignition/Autotune>DL700's Timing Curve>Stage 4 elkas triple rate LT>+2 houser LT>Speed sensor hack>15 T front sprocket>Clutch Plate Mod&HD springs>Cuervo +1 ported head>+3 TB>DL's 5050 cam>Elka Stage 4 Dual rate rear>+3 Swinger>Alba +4 axle>72.9 hp & 61.5 [email protected] front sprocket
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-19-2017, 03:43 PM
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-20-2017, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Almost a year to the week I've be chasing this. I did end up with a PCV and auto tune out of it. Lol. Witch did fix a problem if cutting out on hard jump landings and bumps problem and sputtering due to a faulty PCIII.

>Fast flex bars>Rox Antivibe>Pillow Soft Grips>A/C Front Bumper>PRM 6 Pack Rack>GYTR Nerfs >GYTR skids>Barker Duals>ARP Headstuds>CP 11.5:1 Tech Piston>FCI>PCV/Ignition/Autotune>DL700's Timing Curve>Stage 4 elkas triple rate LT>+2 houser LT>Speed sensor hack>15 T front sprocket>Clutch Plate Mod&HD springs>Cuervo +1 ported head>+3 TB>DL's 5050 cam>Elka Stage 4 Dual rate rear>+3 Swinger>Alba +4 axle>72.9 hp & 61.5 [email protected] front sprocket

Last edited by 700craptor; 11-20-2017 at 01:50 PM.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 12:12 PM
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Which screw are you referring to as the bypass screw? The one with the spring and Philip's head screw? Is the idle screw the one with the jam nut on it?
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