660r smokes. - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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660r smokes.

I bought a 2003 yamaha raptor 660, the guy had it parked for at least 5 months, has a new engine rebuild with aprox 100 hrs on the rebuild. The carbs were all screwed up when I got it, I went through the carbs, and now have it running, but it smokes like insane. Blue smoke so its obviously oil. Is there any way it can get oil besides rings?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 08:32 PM
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Welcome to the forum!

Valve stem seals - a common oil entry point as they get older, BUT they should have been replaced at rebuild... does it smoke more when first started up after sitting for a while? That's the valve stem seals.

If it's smoking continuously and more with more throttle, most likely it's rings or scored cylinder.

Of course, cylinder, piston or head cracks can cause smoking too... hope that's NOT it!

Running too rich can sometimes generate dark smoke that mimics oil... and since you were just in the carbs this is a possibility. Open up the airbox a bit (or close the fuel petcock and ride as the carbs starve) to lean it out and see if the smoke decreases.

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Last edited by QuadManiac; 04-09-2019 at 08:39 PM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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It burnt through probably 1 quart of oil in 10 minutes, it was terrible smokey. And continuously. I'm a car mechanic, so I kinda know what burning oil smells like, just not real familiar with the atv world, so I figured it has to be rings, so I pulled the head and cylinder and the rings look fine, I can no longer see the honing Mark's on the cylinder wall, but it's not scored at all, from what I could see of the valve seals, they appear to be ok. Now what? No obvious problems to me. Now I noticed too that the connecting rod to crank has just a hair of flop up and down as well as when I grab the stator end of the engine, I can feel a hair as well, what is allowed, I dont wanna have to redo all that yet but will if I have too, what's your thought. Thanks.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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So I think I'm just gonna bore my cylinder out to 102 and then i found a big bore piston kit on ebay for 22$ it's a 10:1 compression, is that a good idea for a 686 or not? It's a lot cheaper than wiseco for 158. Wisseco would be a 11:1. What's your thoughts?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 04:30 PM
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I like the 11:1. Gives it a nice kick down low. I wouldnt put one on a factory rod though... I also wouldnt buy a $22 piston, lol.

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07' Raptor 700- 11:1, hotcam 3, Pro design intake with K&N, +3 throttle body, Monster big bore duals, MSD with cuervo timing, JOGACA shocks, trail tech VAPOR, GYTR heel guards & bumper & nerfs, .250 aluminum skids, TM case saver, folding anodized levers and shifter, powermadd hand guards

04' raptor 660-Hot rods crank, .5mm overbore, 11:1 wiseco piston, Stage 1 hotcam, Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, K&N filter with outerwears, open lid airbox, Dynojet stage 2 jet kit
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking I'll do the wisseco crank and rod. And if it's a factory yamaha piston, wouldn't that work? Seemed too cheap but it is a yamaha part supposedly.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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On a 11:1 piston with wiseco crank, will my stock cam be ok and will my stock carbs be ok. I dont wanna get more money into it.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryllynn View Post
I'm thinking I'll do the wisseco crank and rod. And if it's a factory yamaha piston, wouldn't that work? Seemed too cheap but it is a yamaha part supposedly.
Wiseco cranks dont have a good reputation in the raptor world. And a factory 660 piston is fine, but wont work once you bore your cylinder. And factory is only 9:1 so if its listed as a 10:1 then its clearly not oem. UNLESS, its actually an oem piston from a 2015+ raptor 700. In that case, i dont know if it would swap to a 660 or not, we need someone else to chime in on that

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07' Raptor 700- 11:1, hotcam 3, Pro design intake with K&N, +3 throttle body, Monster big bore duals, MSD with cuervo timing, JOGACA shocks, trail tech VAPOR, GYTR heel guards & bumper & nerfs, .250 aluminum skids, TM case saver, folding anodized levers and shifter, powermadd hand guards

04' raptor 660-Hot rods crank, .5mm overbore, 11:1 wiseco piston, Stage 1 hotcam, Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, K&N filter with outerwears, open lid airbox, Dynojet stage 2 jet kit
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna have the machine shop look at my cylinder, but I think its gonna need bored, and my rod bearing got just a hair of slop, would love to save it but what's your thought, just a hair up and down play as well as when I grab the stator end of the crank, I can feel a hair too, what lower end would you reccomend?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:17 PM
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Do you have the crank out? If so, hold the rod from the small end, the crank half's hanging. Then womp (hit, strike, or pound) the top of your hand with the other hand. If you feel a clunk (movement) then the big end bearing is bad. Side to side movement is OK, but check your manual for clearance.

I wouldn't buy a $25 piston either unless it's a discounted name brand.

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