2001 Raptor 660 spark - Page 3 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
I know you can unplug the stator or regulator, but I don't know which one. Same for testing 12 volts on I think the red wire on the CDI. Quadmaniac would have to verify this.
I'm almost 100% positive about having 12 volts on a red wide at the CDI. If there is a red wire it won't hurt to check. Pierce the wire with a sharp safety pin to put your meter lead on, other to ground. Check the wiring diagram to verify.

Also, check all connectors and connections for corrosion or looseness.

Ricky stator used to be good, then sold out and became Ricks and quality dropped. I haven't kept track lately.

Quadmaniac usually pops in every few days and would be a lot more help them me. If you can wait, he can prolly diagnose it and save you money on parts.

2007 RAPTOR 700, SAND QUAD, 11:1 CP, +5 HR CRANK, PC3, +2 TB, LONE STAR XC +1, +1 A-ARMS, HD TIE RODS, JOGACA REAR SHOCK, ASV LEVERS, +4 REAR AXLE, DR.D REVERSE, ODI GRIPS, 1 1/8 CARBON BARS, DG BUMPER. BILLET: GAS CAP, BRAKE COVER, THROTTLE LEVER, BAR MOUNTS. LED LIGHTS'
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 03:15 PM
I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!

 
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Originally Posted by Clifford Shull View Post
Nevermind, I called the local yamaha house and bought one there, won't be in until next week though.
Perhaps you could take your CDI, stator and coil to your local "stealership" and have them tested.

2007 RAPTOR 700, SAND QUAD, 11:1 CP, +5 HR CRANK, PC3, +2 TB, LONE STAR XC +1, +1 A-ARMS, HD TIE RODS, JOGACA REAR SHOCK, ASV LEVERS, +4 REAR AXLE, DR.D REVERSE, ODI GRIPS, 1 1/8 CARBON BARS, DG BUMPER. BILLET: GAS CAP, BRAKE COVER, THROTTLE LEVER, BAR MOUNTS. LED LIGHTS'
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 01:20 AM
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Clifford do you know anybody who knows how to use an oscilloscope?

How did you test for spark?

Most consumer digital meters can not accurately read resistance below a couple of Ohms. Your measurement will always be higher by at least a half Ohm or so. So the resistance measurements you made all seem to be okay.
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'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
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'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by QuadManiac View Post
Clifford do you know anybody who knows how to use an oscilloscope?

How did you test for spark?
Don't have access to or know anyone with an oscilloscope, but once we couldn't get any spark we did the only thing we could do to be sure. My brother grabbed a hold of the spark plug and turned it over, it does not even tingle his fingers...

I don't recommend doing that if you are following along with this post, it hurts when you are wrong. For the record, note that I said my brother did that, because i'm too chicken

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Originally Posted by QuadManiac View Post
Most consumer digital meters can not accurately read resistance below a couple of Ohms. Your measurement will always be higher by at least a half Ohm or so. So the resistance measurements you made all seem to be okay.
Interesting, didn't know this. Mine's a $50 Klein MM400 so i'll just assume it falls into that category.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 01:29 AM
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Yep, just put the meters leads together and measure resistance... I’ll bet you read at least 0.3 Ohms. Now subtract this from your measurements... seem a bit closer?

The oscilloscope is to look at signals that can’t be seen any other way like pulses and sine waves from the stator and short, 100volt pulses from the CDI to the coil. Without a scope you are just guessing what is / isn’t there and what is / isn’t working properly.

Test for spark by plugging a spark plug into the boot, grounding the spark plug body to the engine block and watch for continuous blue/yellow sparks jumping across the plug’s gap while cranking. Report back!

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
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'16 RZR XP4 1000 Turbo

Last edited by QuadManiac; 04-22-2019 at 01:34 AM.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by QuadManiac View Post
Yep, just put the meters leads together and measure resistance... I’ll bet you read at least 0.3 Ohms. Now subtract this from your measurements... seem a bit closer?

The oscilloscope is to look at signals that can’t be seen any other way like pulses and sine waves from the stator and short, 100volt pulses from the CDI to the coil. Without a scope you are just guessing what is / isn’t there and what is / isn’t working properly.

Test for spark by plugging a spark plug into the boot, grounding the spark plug body to the engine block and watch for continuous blue/yellow sparks jumping across the plug’s gap while cranking. Report back!
Yeah, he didnt grab ahold of the plug without checking that first. We started with the normal plug test like you mentioned, even closed off all light to make sure, it has no spark on the plug while cranking while grounded. That's when he grabbed the plug and cranked on it.

It's completely dead but I see what you mean. That only tells us no spark at the plug, but when and where the spark stops we cant be sure without and oscilloscope.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 11:43 AM
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Just for kicks,and to rule out the new plug cap,unscrew the cap from the wire,cut a little off the end so it has nice new cut and get your bro to hang on it again while cranking..lmao. You can also unscrew the wire from the coil end and snip a bit off the wire so it has a fresh contact...when done put a little silicone around where the wire goes into the coil. The old wire will be glued in but comes out easy enough. I've always just slipped into a parts store and picked up a new NGK wire to use instead of the old stock one...for piece of mind.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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If anyone comes across this, just note that good parts are better.

When I bought my stator, I didn't know how much one should cost, and I bought a $50 stator and $12 coil/wire with the same company called Caltric. Don't buy their stuff, its junk...

I didn't want to pay $350 for an actual Yamaha stator though, so I bought one from Ricky Stator for ~$130. I did buy a Yamaha coil/wire for ~$65. Both parts resistance tests were considerably lower than the Caltric parts and fixed my issue.

When I removed the Caltric coil, the spark plug boot literally fell apart meaning that the spring, contact and retainer clip fell out of it.

Anyway, thanks to all of you who contributed to this issue, she's running better than ever!
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