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2001 Raptor 660 spark

2K views 27 replies 5 participants last post by  Clifford Shull 
#1 ·
I've read the forums here and other places, lots of information out there but it seems geared towards folks who already know how to do the thing, which I do not.

I was riding my 660 and it just stopped going. It has no spark to the plug (my brother grabbed it to see if it did...)

I have changed:
Spark Plug
Coil/Wire
Rectifier/Regulator
Stator

My question:
I've seen folks just checking continuity on the switch but I've also seen posts where people are saying that you should be testing resistance, i'm not sure which wires to test though and what the resistance values should look like?

Basically, I gather I need to test the switch and the CDI, but I don't know how to do either of these. Anyone have a good write up on how to test these?
 
#3 ·
Hi,if you go to maintainance section,see sticky marked most common raptor 660 problems that should give you some things to check.Does the engine turn over ?
 
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#4 ·
Engine turns over, it's getting gas and doesn't seem to be flooding.

Also should probably mention i did the plug/unplug the rectifier test too, no spark either way.

I'll check the maintenance section for stickies, I didn't see them in general and didn't think to look in maintenance for whatever reason.
 
#5 ·
There are quite a few stickys,they have saved me loads of time and effort over last 2 weeks and my Rappy has been a pain to start for years.Spend a bit of time to check stickys and they should help.Electrics ain't my thing,Quadmaniac or Dezporado might be able to help better with that.good luck,i'm to bed ,past midnight here.
 
#6 ·
So in maintenance section for stickies I saw the one about common problems, and i've been through all of that stuff already.

It basically covers no spark but only for the stator winding problem, which I've replaced my stator... maybe there is some resistance/continuity testing I can do to verify my old stator was bad. I've got a multimeter but I am new to using the thing and don't have any experience chasing wires/diagnosing electrical issues really. I have the stator out on my table though so maybe that's useful for diagnosing even though I've already replaced it...

I saw the one as well about the CDI wiring differences between 01 and 02 but not a write up on how to actually test them, maybe it's a more difficult process than I'm giving it credit!
 
#7 ·
Be sure your battery is at least 13.6 volts. If low the cranking speed will be to low to create spark. Jump from a good battery from your wife's car.

Have you tried starter fluid or bump starting?

Tight intake valves will cause hard or no start.

I know you can unplug the stator or regulator, but I don't know which one. Same for testing 12 volts on I think the red wire on the CDI. Quadmaniac would have to verify this.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM.
 
#8 ·
Be sure your battery is at least 13.6 volts. If low the cranking speed will be to low to create spark. Jump from a good battery from your wife's car.
First, thanks for your response!

I'm honestly not sure the battery has ever registered more than 13.1 volts and I bought it new last summer. Interesting though, my charger is reading it at 13.1 after being on maintain all night, but my multimeter just bounces around a bunch and I can't get a good reading on it.

Have you tried starter fluid or bump starting?
Not sure if starter fluid will help since i'm positive it's a no spark condition. Didn't know what the term "bump starting" was but i'll try it and see how it goes.

Tight intake valves will cause hard or no start.
Is that something that would tighten up and then kill the bike mid ride? I was in 2nd gear down shifting and slowing down to stop(clutch in) and it just died on me, hasn't had spark since.

I know you can unplug the stator or regulator, but I don't know which one. Same for testing 12 volts on I think the red wire on the CDI. Quadmaniac would have to verify this.
Yeah, I've read a bunch of articles and seen youtube videos on this part. I've tested spark with regulator plugged in and unplugged and there is no change. I'll wait on someone to let me know which wires on the CDI to check for voltage or resistance.

Also curious if there is a way to test the stator with a multimeter if anyone knows.
 
#11 ·
You'll have to read between the lines of my last post. My comments are mixed with yours.

Another thought?! Have you checked your fuses?? There may be 2 at the solenoid, but one is a spare. Others may be under the back of the seat in a box with a flip top.
 
#12 ·
What does the battery read when cranking the motor?
 
#16 ·
there is just 1 fuse and 1 spare,and why didn't I think to tell you about manual,doh.sorry.
 
#18 ·
Correction, the service manual steps for ignition troubleshooting start on chapter 8 section 6 (8 - 6)

From the service manual:

Step 1 Fuse -> Looks good, has continuity
Step 2 Battery -> Currently at 13.76v, ~11.94 at lowest when cranking
Step 3 Spark plug -> Have tried 3 different plugs, gap set to .032 in, spec calls for .031 - .035 in
Step 4 Ignition spark gap -> I don't know what this is testing, but I can't do it because I don't have spark
Step 5 Spark plug cap resistance -> 11.16k spec calls for 10k <- Could this be the problem? It's new but not sure if it's OEM because I can't seem to tell when I order them.
Step 6 Ignition coil resistance ->
PRIMARY: Old one and new one both have .4, spec is .18-.28
SECONDARY: Old one has 8.07k and new one has 2.83k, spec is 6.32k ~ 9.48k
Step 7 Engine stop switch -> has continuity and .7 resistance
Step 8 Main switch -> has continuity and .4 resistance
Step 9 Pickup coil resistance -> .503, spec is .445 - .545
Step 10 .Charging/rotor rotation direction detection coil resistance -> .2, spec is 0.069 ~ 0.085

Based on the steps above, I'd say I bought a bad ignition coil and a bad stator...

I see in the manual there are no steps for testing the CDI, it just says if everything else is good and you go through all the wires, replace the CDI so I'm still up for hearing from someone who knows how to test that, but I'm going to start by looking for OEM stator and ignition coil. If you know of a good set that would be super helpful for me!
 
#19 ·
Based on the steps above, I'd say I bought a bad ignition coil and a bad stator...

I see in the manual there are no steps for testing the CDI, it just says if everything else is good and you go through all the wires, replace the CDI so I'm still up for hearing from someone who knows how to test that, but I'm going to start by looking for OEM stator and ignition coil. If you know of a good set that would be super helpful for me!
So I see Ricky Stator is a well liked place to get OEM parts, and they have the stator but not ignition coils. Does anyone know if the raptor or warrior 350 ignition coils are compatible? They carry those but not 660 coils...
 
#23 · (Edited)
Clifford do you know anybody who knows how to use an oscilloscope?

How did you test for spark?

Most consumer digital meters can not accurately read resistance below a couple of Ohms. Your measurement will always be higher by at least a half Ohm or so. So the resistance measurements you made all seem to be okay.
 
#24 ·
Clifford do you know anybody who knows how to use an oscilloscope?

How did you test for spark?
Don't have access to or know anyone with an oscilloscope, but once we couldn't get any spark we did the only thing we could do to be sure. My brother grabbed a hold of the spark plug and turned it over, it does not even tingle his fingers...

I don't recommend doing that if you are following along with this post, it hurts when you are wrong. For the record, note that I said my brother did that, because i'm too chicken :)

Most consumer digital meters can not accurately read resistance below a couple of Ohms. Your measurement will always be higher by at least a half Ohm or so. So the resistance measurements you made all seem to be okay.
Interesting, didn't know this. Mine's a $50 Klein MM400 so i'll just assume it falls into that category.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Yep, just put the meters leads together and measure resistance... I’ll bet you read at least 0.3 Ohms. Now subtract this from your measurements... seem a bit closer?

The oscilloscope is to look at signals that can’t be seen any other way like pulses and sine waves from the stator and short, 100volt pulses from the CDI to the coil. Without a scope you are just guessing what is / isn’t there and what is / isn’t working properly.

Test for spark by plugging a spark plug into the boot, grounding the spark plug body to the engine block and watch for continuous blue/yellow sparks jumping across the plug’s gap while cranking. Report back!
 
#26 ·
Yeah, he didnt grab ahold of the plug without checking that first. We started with the normal plug test like you mentioned, even closed off all light to make sure, it has no spark on the plug while cranking while grounded. That's when he grabbed the plug and cranked on it.

It's completely dead but I see what you mean. That only tells us no spark at the plug, but when and where the spark stops we cant be sure without and oscilloscope.
 
#27 ·
Just for kicks,and to rule out the new plug cap,unscrew the cap from the wire,cut a little off the end so it has nice new cut and get your bro to hang on it again while cranking..lmao. You can also unscrew the wire from the coil end and snip a bit off the wire so it has a fresh contact...when done put a little silicone around where the wire goes into the coil. The old wire will be glued in but comes out easy enough. I've always just slipped into a parts store and picked up a new NGK wire to use instead of the old stock one...for piece of mind.
 
#28 ·
If anyone comes across this, just note that good parts are better.

When I bought my stator, I didn't know how much one should cost, and I bought a $50 stator and $12 coil/wire with the same company called Caltric. Don't buy their stuff, its junk...

I didn't want to pay $350 for an actual Yamaha stator though, so I bought one from Ricky Stator for ~$130. I did buy a Yamaha coil/wire for ~$65. Both parts resistance tests were considerably lower than the Caltric parts and fixed my issue.

When I removed the Caltric coil, the spark plug boot literally fell apart meaning that the spring, contact and retainer clip fell out of it.

Anyway, thanks to all of you who contributed to this issue, she's running better than ever!
 
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