lonestar swingarm bearings, and help identifying stroker crank - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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lonestar swingarm bearings, and help identifying stroker crank

hi everybody, I am new to the forum but I have been reading alot of posts and I'm happy to be finally part of the group...

so I have a few things that I need to figure out, and I have been searching for weeks and reading through countless posts, but I cannot find the answers that I need...

I picked up a lone star +4 swingarm for my 01 660 that I was hoping to be able to install this next week, but I need to know if I can use a stock bearing kit (not the carrier bearing just the pivot) or will I have to get them from LSR? because as far I can tell the LSR set comes with bearings only, and I would have to get a stock kit for the seals etc anyways, or maybe I will get one of each if they fit and put double bearings in since there is room for that... this is my main concern

my other issue is that I also picked up an unidentified stroker crank, and again after weeks and hour's worth of sifting through posts I have come up with absolutely squat besides one picture that look similar... I believe it is a Barker +4 and I will post pictures as soon as I have a chance, but the guy I bought it from said it is a +4 and that was all he knew

so that is my dilemma, I would love to be able to slap that crank in and bore my spare cylinder to 102 mm and throw a high-compression piston in and make it a 720 beast, but I really need to know what I'm dealing with because if I need a special piston (like with the hotrods stroker crank) or if the crank won't clear the case (please correct me if I'm wrong) if I remember right anything more than +4mm needs case modifications for it to clear?

again I'm glad to finally be a member of the group, and any insight or pictures that would help me would be greatly appreciated!!!

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-31-2019, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys so I took some pictures of that crank today... the crank has '5903 660 rap' scratched into it, and the rod is stamped with 22812 and the bottom looks to be ground down possibly to clear the case? and the crank looks like it's been balanced? But honestly I have no idea, I'm really hoping somebody here can tell me something... I tried to measure the rod height difference next to a stock crank but I couldn't get a good enough measurement.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-31-2019, 09:52 PM
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Welcome to the forum, I have no words of wisdom concerning your questions other than just hang in there for answers to these questions. Especially around a holiday weekend.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 01:49 AM
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Factory or aftermarket pivot bearings will fit your swingarm.

The crank is a little more complicated. It may be a longer stroke with a shorter rod and use a stock piston. Or, longer stroke and stock length rod and require a stroker piston OR a spacer plate under the cylinder and longer timing chain. You would have to compare the factory crank to the Barker, maybe even mock up the crank in a case half, cylinder and piston. AND, check the bottom of the cases to see if some trenching (machining) is necessary. That said, I don't like the grinder marks on the rod!

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome thanks for the info! I'm excited lol definitely gonna order some bearings ASAP so I can get that swingarm put on...

And as far as the crank, IDK why I didn't think of that, I have enough parts laying around I can mock it up and check the clearances etc...

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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But do you think the grinding on the rod is going to affect it? Strength and durability wise I mean?

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Elliot Taylor View Post
But do you think the grinding on the rod is going to affect it? Strength and durability wise I mean?

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It's hard to tell from the picture if it would cause a problem. The majority of force isn't at the bottom of the rod. In other situations I would dress the scratches to be polished and re-leave stress. But, in this case it may weaken it more. You might seek advice from a local machinist

On your swingarm, idk if the 660 is the same as the 700, but... The 700 pivot bearing kit will come with one bearing and one bushing per side. BUT, there is room for a third bearing or bushing per side. It may be possible to use some from your old swingarm for additional support.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Factory or aftermarket pivot bearings will fit your swingarm.



The crank is a little more complicated. It may be a longer stroke with a shorter rod and use a stock piston. Or, longer stroke and stock length rod and require a stroker piston OR a spacer plate under the cylinder and longer timing chain. You would have to compare the factory crank to the Barker, maybe even mock up the crank in a case half, cylinder and piston. AND, check the bottom of the cases to see if some trenching (machining) is necessary. That said, I don't like the grinder marks on the rod!



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just a quick question about all this... when I mock up the stroker crank vs the stock crank, everything else being equal on both, and provided it is a stock length rod I should be able to measure the difference in TDC to tell me the added stroke correct?

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 02:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Taylor View Post
just a quick question about all this... when I mock up the stroker crank vs the stock crank, everything else being equal on both, and provided it is a stock length rod I should be able to measure the difference in TDC to tell me the added stroke correct?

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You would see the difference in the stroker pin being offset in the crank half's. But, be aware that a 4mm stroker will have the pin only 2mm difference. At BDC (bottom dead center) the piston is 2mm lower, and then at TDC (top dead center) the piston is 2mm higher, total of 4mm additional stroke. When mocked up with the stroker crank, stock piston and cylinder you'll want to check that the piston is at or slightly below deck height. If so, no spacer or extended timing chain is needed. Before final assembly it would be a good idea to 'clay' the valves to verify piston to valve clearance.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
You would see the difference in the stroker pin being offset in the crank half's. But, be aware that a 4mm stroker will have the pin only 2mm difference. At BDC (bottom dead center) the piston is 2mm lower, and then at TDC (top dead center) the piston is 2mm higher, total of 4mm additional stroke. When mocked up with the stroker crank, stock piston and cylinder you'll want to check that the piston is at or slightly below deck height. If so, no spacer or extended timing chain is needed. Before final assembly it would be a good idea to 'clay' the valves to verify piston to valve clearance.
ok yeah I'll have to throw some of my parts together and see what I can find... another question though, what will the compression increase over stock be with say 4mm stroke?

I currently have a 100.5mm wiseco 10.5:1 HC piston, although I looked to see what they had for 102mm and I see they only make an 11:1 ratio? I'll have to double check my piston I still have the one I replaced and the box it came in but im 75% sure it was a 10.5:1 lol...

Anyways will I be able to run an 11:1 102mm with a stroker crank like that without worrying about octane? I run 93 only as it is anyways, is this safe? thanks again for all the help

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