Raptor 660 Wont start up - Page 10 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #91 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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No luck at all, from what i can see the piston moves side to side a little from where i took the clips off to remove the piston pin, but when im looking from below i can see that the piston is moving and not the actual pin, this means its jammed onto the rod end itself. I tried heating it the rod yesterday and it still did not move, i also tried a g clamp, and it ended up snapping the g clamp in half.

What shall i do?

the E-Z thing, i dont have that tool
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post #92 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Can i ask how important it is to have all the crankcase bolts securly fasted tight?


When i changed the timing chain, i put the case back on and 2 bolts did not seem to tight for some reason, they was just spinning, although all the others are very tight and the crankcase is solid.

Is it important to get replacements ? or can i run it without them ? Dont see no issue as there is not pressure really buiding up inside that casing is there ?

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post #93 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 09:01 PM
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[QUOTE=YamahaSpecial;3454149]No luck at all, from what i can see the piston moves side to side a little from where i took the clips off to remove the piston pin, but when im looking from below i can see that the piston is moving and not the actual pin, this means its jammed onto the rod end itself. I tried heating it the rod yesterday and it still did not move, i also tried a g clamp, and it ended up snapping the g clamp in half.

What shall i do?

the E-Z thing, i dont have that tool[/QUOTE

A "EZ Out" is a tool that removed something that is striped with a existing or drilled hole, it has sharp corners, teeth or spiral edges to bight into and remove or turn a stuck bolt, or in this case a wrist pin. That's a brand name in the US, you may have something similar over there.

BUT, that's not the worst. Early on, I tried to impress on the importance of the crank being good. Now with the wrist pin being stuck in the top of the rod there is a good chance the rod is bad. My only idea now is to get some quality drill bits, like "Cobalt" and try to drill the center of the pin till it's thin enough or breaks free to be removed, but not damage the rod. You might have to use some rotary burs to grind away the piston. Be sure the crankcase is well covered, maybe even taped to keep chips out.

Striped threads can be repaired with "heli coil" or "time-sert, a oversize threaded insert that restores the correct size. If the bad threads are on the bottom or side by side they could allow some leakage in or out. But, first, take something thin, like a pipe cleaner, knitting needle, or thin wire and find out how deep the holes are, then get longer screws for each. There may be good threads deeper in.

I would hold off on everything until you get the wrist pin out and inspect the rod.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #94 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 11:18 PM
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Be sure to soak the pin with a penetrating oil. You might also drill thru the outer edge of the piston top, thru the wrist pin. Then stick a round screwdriver thru and try to break it loose.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #95 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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[quote=DEZPERADO;3454165]
Quote:
Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
No luck at all, from what i can see the piston moves side to side a little from where i took the clips off to remove the piston pin, but when im looking from below i can see that the piston is moving and not the actual pin, this means its jammed onto the rod end itself. I tried heating it the rod yesterday and it still did not move, i also tried a g clamp, and it ended up snapping the g clamp in half.

What shall i do?

the E-Z thing, i dont have that tool[/QUOTE

A "EZ Out" is a tool that removed something that is striped with a existing or drilled hole, it has sharp corners, teeth or spiral edges to bight into and remove or turn a stuck bolt, or in this case a wrist pin. That's a brand name in the US, you may have something similar over there.

BUT, that's not the worst. Early on, I tried to impress on the importance of the crank being good. Now with the wrist pin being stuck in the top of the rod there is a good chance the rod is bad. My only idea now is to get some quality drill bits, like "Cobalt" and try to drill the center of the pin till it's thin enough or breaks free to be removed, but not damage the rod. You might have to use some rotary burs to grind away the piston. Be sure the crankcase is well covered, maybe even taped to keep chips out.

Striped threads can be repaired with "heli coil" or "time-sert, a oversize threaded insert that restores the correct size. If the bad threads are on the bottom or side by side they could allow some leakage in or out. But, first, take something thin, like a pipe cleaner, knitting needle, or thin wire and find out how deep the holes are, then get longer screws for each. There may be good threads deeper in.

I would hold off on everything until you get the wrist pin out and inspect the rod.

Ok thanks for that, the E-Z tools are not thick enough to fit in the pin snug as i had these to try get off that bolt i had issues with earlier.

Also, is there not a specific tool you can use to push out the pin? The piston pin puller i used did not actually work as the allen key bolts they supplied was not long enough to go into the piston pin and come out the other side ( picture of the tool attached). I have also attached a picture of another tool i saw online ( orange one ) - shall i order this an try this? I would rather do it this way than drill it out and potentially damage something else or get anything in the crank.

So if the piston pin is stuck does that mean the rod is bad only or can it be the crank? I have tried hammering the pin out after heating the rod end so i hope this hasn't bent the crank bearing etc?

This has to be the most frustrating build ever that i have done, i should of just paid 1000's at the shop to get it fixed, but were half way through so ill finish it

THanks
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post #96 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 12:47 PM
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The gold tool pictured is similar to what I use, and is easily fabricated. Get 2 sockets, one large the pin would fit inside, one small that will fit the pin hole. Then a strong bolt or threaded rod, as big as possible to fit thru both sockets and the pin. Run the bolt thru the pin and sockets and pull the smaller socket thru with the pin into the bigger socket on the opposite end. Some washers may be necessary for support.

Once the pin is out we can evaluate the damage. When hammering on the pin did you support the other side of the piston?

Even if you had the shop do the work, they would have inflated the price once the new problems were found.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #97 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 01:07 PM
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Anyone else watching/reading this thread? Your help would be appreciated.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #98 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Anyone else watching/reading this thread? Your help would be appreciated.
I have been following along DEZ, to me it sounds as if you have been covering the bases needed. When it comes to dealing with more than the top end, I have no suggestions as I have not attempted that task.

Those cir-clips holding the piston on have been removed correct?

[U]2006 raptor 700

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post #99 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 01:28 PM
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I read that you did remove those clips. Still very surprised it has been so tough to get out.

[U]2006 raptor 700

DMC Force 4's, FCI W/box, Dynatek Fusion,
CP 11:1 piston, BaMotorsports porting, HC3
RacersEdge +3TB
YFZ 450 fronts & reworked rear by JOGACA
Trailtech 1 1/8 xbar w/vapor dash & Vapor installed
ODI Rogue grips & ASV pro pack levers
Fastway steering stabilizer
68HP 49TQ

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post #100 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Anyone else watching/reading this thread? Your help would be appreciated.
Im here. Just didnt want to pee on anyones party if i didnt have to. Ive never had a piston pin be such a bear and cant really think of any tricks to get it out that wouldnt damage the rod or rod bearing. You already mentioned penetrating oil in the pin oiling hole. Only other thing i would know to do is get the bottom end out, support it and set it up on a hydraulic press. But in my opinion, if the pin is seized in the rod then the rod is probly toast. That would leave you with the option of having your crank rebuilt or getting a new one. Case splitting time. Hope im wrong about that, for your sake

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04' raptor 660-Hot rods crank, .5mm overbore, 11:1 wiseco piston, Stage 1 hotcam, Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, K&N filter with outerwears, open lid airbox, Dynojet stage 2 jet kit
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