Raptor 660 Wont start up - Page 11 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #101 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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[quote=DEZPERADO;3454165]
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Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
No luck at all, from what i can see the piston moves side to side a little from where i took the clips off to remove the piston pin, but when im looking from below i can see that the piston is moving and not the actual pin, this means its jammed onto the rod end itself. I tried heating it the rod yesterday and it still did not move, i also tried a g clamp, and it ended up snapping the g clamp in half.

What shall i do?

the E-Z thing, i dont have that tool[/QUOTE

A "EZ Out" is a tool that removed something that is striped with a existing or drilled hole, it has sharp corners, teeth or spiral edges to bight into and remove or turn a stuck bolt, or in this case a wrist pin. That's a brand name in the US, you may have something similar over there.

BUT, that's not the worst. Early on, I tried to impress on the importance of the crank being good. Now with the wrist pin being stuck in the top of the rod there is a good chance the rod is bad. My only idea now is to get some quality drill bits, like "Cobalt" and try to drill the center of the pin till it's thin enough or breaks free to be removed, but not damage the rod. You might have to use some rotary burs to grind away the piston. Be sure the crankcase is well covered, maybe even taped to keep chips out.

Striped threads can be repaired with "heli coil" or "time-sert, a oversize threaded insert that restores the correct size. If the bad threads are on the bottom or side by side they could allow some leakage in or out. But, first, take something thin, like a pipe cleaner, knitting needle, or thin wire and find out how deep the holes are, then get longer screws for each. There may be good threads deeper in.

I would hold off on everything until you get the wrist pin out and inspect the rod.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
The gold tool pictured is similar to what I use, and is easily fabricated. Get 2 sockets, one large the pin would fit inside, one small that will fit the pin hole. Then a strong bolt or threaded rod, as big as possible to fit thru both sockets and the pin. Run the bolt thru the pin and sockets and pull the smaller socket thru with the pin into the bigger socket on the opposite end. Some washers may be necessary for support.

Once the pin is out we can evaluate the damage. When hammering on the pin did you support the other side of the piston?

Even if you had the shop do the work, they would have inflated the price once the new problems were found.
I have tried making my own version but cant find a bolt long enough, i have been to all my tool shops and no one has one that long , so in this case i will just order that tool and try that.

When i was hammering it lightly i pushed against the piston so its to one side and not wobbling and then gave it a few taps after i heated it and no luck.

I will order that tool tonight and see how it goes. I hope its not a bad rod as that will mean ill need more tools etc to rebuild the crank or replace it.

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post #102 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by morphrider View Post
I read that you did remove those clips. Still very surprised it has been so tough to get out.

Hi, Yes the clips are already removed. I can see the piston move side to side so its not stuck on the piston but its on the rod. I will order the tool i showed earlier and see what happens next

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post #103 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 4stroker4life View Post
Im here. Just didnt want to pee on anyones party if i didnt have to. Ive never had a piston pin be such a bear and cant really think of any tricks to get it out that wouldnt damage the rod or rod bearing. You already mentioned penetrating oil in the pin oiling hole. Only other thing i would know to do is get the bottom end out, support it and set it up on a hydraulic press. But in my opinion, if the pin is seized in the rod then the rod is probly toast. That would leave you with the option of having your crank rebuilt or getting a new one. Case splitting time. Hope im wrong about that, for your sake

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Hi, yes i will order that new tool to remove the pin which will hopefully work, i have tried penetrating oil etc.

I really hope the crank is not bad, the guy has literally sold me this f**cked up bike then knowing its on its last legs. He started it and it sounded fine at his house but it dident go forward or back as it cut out on the rev.

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post #104 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
Hi, yes i will order that new tool to remove the pin which will hopefully work, i have tried penetrating oil etc.

I really hope the crank is not bad, the guy has literally sold me this f**cked up bike then knowing its on its last legs. He started it and it sounded fine at his house but it dident go forward or back as it cut out on the rev.
I'm hoping not to split the cases as I'm not familiar with the 660. It could be real easy, I just don't know.

As for your seller there was no way he would know the pin was frozen to the rod, unless he had it apart. Being 13? years old it could have had poor or no maintenance.

Over here we have "all thread" or "ready rod", a long length of threaded rod, so with nuts it would be a very long bolt.

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post #105 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 05:22 PM
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You could turn the whole quad up on it's side and support it to stay. Then, with support under the piston, drill thru the piston and pin as explained above with little chance of metal going in the rest of the motor.

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post #106 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
You could turn the whole quad up on it's side and support it to stay. Then, with support under the piston, drill thru the piston and pin as explained above with little chance of metal going in the rest of the motor.

The seller must of know its history and what it's been through, he listed it as a ' flat battery ' and as its my first every quad bike i thought it was that.

Never mind, i Have ordered the new tool to use for taking out the pin so hopefully that should work. Should arrive in a couple of days and then ill keep you guys posted. !
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post #107 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
I'm hoping not to split the cases as I'm not familiar with the 660. It could be real easy, I just don't know.

Its really not much different than the 700. Just one less counterbalancer

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post #108 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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You could turn the whole quad up on it's side and support it to stay. Then, with support under the piston, drill thru the piston and pin as explained above with little chance of metal going in the rest of the motor.

Hi, the cylinder is done and they are posting it to me tomorrow.

I checked all the valves today but taking off the springs with a compressor. I removed each one , the valve stems was all a little dry but they was all straight. I placed them on a flat surface, All the seals were also good.

When replacing them all i put oil on the valve stem and they was sliding smoothly when tested and i assembled them back together.


Waiting for my new piston pin remover then i will update on how i take out the pin..


)
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post #109 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 06:16 PM
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Grab a good 6 pack to drink and take your time.

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post #110 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Grab a good 6 pack to drink and take your time.
if the bike gets working again i think ill have to buy everyone who helped a 6 pack haha ! couldent have got this far without any of your guys help
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