Raptor 660 Wont start up - Page 12 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #111 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 06:56 PM
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This is really one of the best forums out there for bike specific help. I have been to a lot of them before calling this home with all the great help and new found far off friends. The other one I am consistently on that provides great help for dirt bike specific is Thumpertalk, but not for atv help, lol.
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[U]2006 raptor 700

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post #112 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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SO the cylinder and new piston came today. The piston is a wiseco racing piston they charged me 160 for it? See image attached.

My new tool also came to get the piston pin out, HOWEVER, this broke on the 5th turn on attempting to pull the pin out. It literally just cracked and went in, ( see picture attached )

OK NOW this is my 4th/5th DAY of fighting with the pin, i think its not coming out using anyway. I am going to go get a metal drill bit tomorrow as shops are closed now and try drilling it out?

So this will mean i will need a new rod? If this is the case instead of me taking the pin out, shall i just take the whole engine out and take it to a nearby motorcycle shop so they can replace the rod??

OR shall i drill the pin out But question is , will the rod be reuseable?

I dont want to split the bottom half myself, rather a shop do it as iv had enough with this bike

ALSO, this new piston is different shaped etc than my oem one, is this fine?
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Yamaha Raptor 660R Special Edition
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post #113 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
SO the cylinder and new piston came today. The piston is a wiseco racing piston they charged me 160 for it? See image attached.

My new tool also came to get the piston pin out, HOWEVER, this broke on the 5th turn on attempting to pull the pin out. It literally just cracked and went in, ( see picture attached )

OK NOW this is my 4th/5th DAY of fighting with the pin, i think its not coming out using anyway. I am going to go get a metal drill bit tomorrow as shops are closed now and try drilling it out?

So this will mean i will need a new rod? If this is the case instead of me taking the pin out, shall i just take the whole engine out and take it to a nearby motorcycle shop so they can replace the rod??

OR shall i drill the pin out But question is , will the rod be reuseable?

I dont want to split the bottom half myself, rather a shop do it as iv had enough with this bike

ALSO, this new piston is different shaped etc than my oem one, is this fine?
Most bike shops wont replace just the rod, they will replace the entire crank assembly. If you want to rebuild your crank, youd likely have to send it off to a specialist. Here in the U.S. there are a few places that do it, i dont know about over there. Your new piston is a different shape because its a high compression piston. The extra metal takes up space in the cylinder, thereby boosting compression. You need to run premium fuel with that piston because of compression

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07' Raptor 700- 11:1, hotcam 3, Pro design intake with K&N, +3 throttle body, Monster big bore duals, MSD with cuervo timing, JOGACA shocks, trail tech VAPOR, GYTR heel guards & bumper & nerfs, .250 aluminum skids, TM case saver, folding anodized levers and shifter, powermadd hand guards

04' raptor 660-Hot rods crank, .5mm overbore, 11:1 wiseco piston, Stage 1 hotcam, Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, K&N filter with outerwears, open lid airbox, Dynojet stage 2 jet kit
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post #114 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-24-2019, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
SO the cylinder and new piston came today. The piston is a wiseco racing piston they charged me 160 for it? See image attached.

My new tool also came to get the piston pin out, HOWEVER, this broke on the 5th turn on attempting to pull the pin out. It literally just cracked and went in, ( see picture attached )

OK NOW this is my 4th/5th DAY of fighting with the pin, i think its not coming out using anyway. I am going to go get a metal drill bit tomorrow as shops are closed now and try drilling it out?

So this will mean i will need a new rod? If this is the case instead of me taking the pin out, shall i just take the whole engine out and take it to a nearby motorcycle shop so they can replace the rod??

OR shall i drill the pin out But question is , will the rod be reuseable?

I dont want to split the bottom half myself, rather a shop do it as iv had enough with this bike

ALSO, this new piston is different shaped etc than my oem one, is this fine?
As 4 stroker said, the piston is a improved design and as long as the box says 11:1 compression ratio it is OK. Any aftermarket piston is called a "racing" piston. Your new piston should have come with a new pin and retainers.

And as said, you may need a new/used crank and rod 'assembly'. You can start looking on your local ebay for one. I don't know if the 660 has a bushing but it may be able to be replaced. If no bushing it is important to not do any more damage so it can be evaluated. The pin is hard and drilling won't be easy, that's why I recommend cobalt drill bits. Drilling thru the pin may break the bond loose from the rod, but be careful not to drill of center in the rod, or spin the pin anymore then necessary. If you drill thru the top of the piston on each side you could put round screwdrivers or similar for leverage. Once broke loose the pin will still need to be removed, but should be easier once loose. Can you warranty your broken pin removal tools?

I'm still hoping that the rod isn't damaged so much that it can't be used.

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post #115 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-24-2019, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
As 4 stroker said, the piston is a improved design and as long as the box says 11:1 compression ratio it is OK. Any aftermarket piston is called a "racing" piston. Your new piston should have come with a new pin and retainers.

And as said, you may need a new/used crank and rod 'assembly'. You can start looking on your local ebay for one. I don't know if the 660 has a bushing but it may be able to be replaced. If no bushing it is important to not do any more damage so it can be evaluated. The pin is hard and drilling won't be easy, that's why I recommend cobalt drill bits. Drilling thru the pin may break the bond loose from the rod, but be careful not to drill of center in the rod, or spin the pin anymore then necessary. If you drill thru the top of the piston on each side you could put round screwdrivers or similar for leverage. Once broke loose the pin will still need to be removed, but should be easier once loose. Can you warranty your broken pin removal tools?

I'm still hoping that the rod isn't damaged so much that it can't be used.
HI, i triied today and no luck with the drilling, The whole piston and rod just viabrates like crazy and drill wont stay still.

DO you think its the crank and rod because the main problem with the bike was that it was making a knocking sound when you started it up and then died out after you leave start button?

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post #116 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Hello, so i found raptor 660 which the guy states had a valve dropped and the engine seized up, its listed on Ebay as Spares and Repairs.

It inlcudes the whole engine including a assembled bottom end with the crank and rod etc. I messaged this seller and asked if the bottom end was fine and he said [I]" Providing nothing went down the bottom when the valve dropped yes,i cant guarantee it but,i was going to rebuild the top end but i got hold of an r1 engine and im sending it away to get fitted,postage is fine,where would it be going? "[/I]

Now is there any possabilty that the bottom end is bad after a valve dropping?

This is the advert discription " Raptor parts The quad dropped a valve and i stripped it for a rebuild,the head looks fine so does the barrel the bottom end is still free all casings fine starter motor and gearbox should be fine like before it blew,there is cams and bolts etc in bags carbs aswell. I am willing to post at the buyers cost,no returns this is Engine Parts . Condition is For parts.thanks for looking ".

I dont want to buy it , then put the bike together with all my new parts and then the crank / bottom end be knackerd? So can someone please advise me

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post #117 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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ok i am going ahead and buying the parts. Its his old engine just took all apart.

Comes with everything so i can use them as spares in future.

I asked about the crank bottom end and he said that theres no damage / bits in there, and it turns over fine. He also said he was going to rebuild it himeself if he dident buy a new engine...

I will replace my bottom end with this one and then rebuild the top end?

Shall i just give my bike a fresh spray paint job whilst its all apart? some joints etc are rusty

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post #118 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 12:42 PM
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It's possible the rod and crank caused the origional problem, but also the timing chain that you said was kinked.

Dropping a valve would contact the piston, putting stress on the crank and rod. As I asked you originally, ask the seller about rod tightness and side clearance. Beware if it is a 2001, as some transmission parts are different and have caused problems.

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post #119 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
It's possible the rod and crank caused the origional problem, but also the timing chain that you said was kinked.

Dropping a valve would contact the piston, putting stress on the crank and rod. As I asked you originally, ask the seller about rod tightness and side clearance. Beware if it is a 2001, as some transmission parts are different and have caused problems.

Hi, yes it could have been as my timing chain was very very stiff, it woud not bent it self unless pushed to bend...

The parts are off a raptor 2005 660 , The seller said the bottom end is fine and it turns over etc...

I paid 325 for all the parts will be coming next week.. Its cheaper than buying a engine or replacing the crank at a shop - plus i will have all these spare parts incase.

I will build the engine whilst its out of the bike using the new bottom end and then fit it all in at once?

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post #120 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
Hi, yes it could have been as my timing chain was very very stiff, it woud not bent it self unless pushed to bend...

The parts are off a raptor 2005 660 , The seller said the bottom end is fine and it turns over etc...

I paid 325 for all the parts will be coming next week.. Its cheaper than buying a engine or replacing the crank at a shop - plus i will have all these spare parts incase.

I will build the engine whilst its out of the bike using the new bottom end and then fit it all in at once?
That sounds like a good plan. Be aware that a complete motor will be heavy and a helper may be necessary during instillation back in the frame. I use a tie strap with hooks, around my neck, and hooks in the motor.

Taking your bad one apart will give you experience and confidence to do additional repairs in the future. We all have to start somewhere and learn as we go. As I said before, your doing a fine job with perseverance with one problem after another and the frustrations involved.

Be sure to wash your cylinder till clean, dry well, and oil to prevent rust.
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