Raptor 660 Wont start up - Page 21 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #201 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-25-2019, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Are the carb bodies leaking or out the vent hose? Check the rubber "O" rings in the carbs and replace any that are cracking or bloated. A common problem. Be sure the floats move freely and check the adjusted. There is a "sticky" on the clear tube float adjustment.

Good job on the bad fuse.

Hot battery connections is usually caused by a low battery, dirty connections or corroded cables. A good battery should read around 13.5 volts. Try jumping from another vehicle battery. If you have a VOM you can check the cables for voltage drop. Be sure to keep the battery on the trickle charger.
The vent hose is leaking, not the bodies.

I will take the spark plug out and check for a spark and also i will jump start it off my car to see if it works then?

Is it safe to start whilst fuel is dripping out the carb Just want to get it started up first

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post #202 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-25-2019, 11:52 AM
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[QUOTE=YamahaSpecial;3455407]
Quote:
Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Are the carb bodies leaking or out the vent hose? Check the rubber "O" rings in the carbs and replace any that are cracking or bloated. A common problem. Be sure the floats move freely and check

The vent hose is leaking, not the bodies.

I will take the spark plug out and check for a spark and also i will jump start it off my car to see if it works then?

Is it safe to start whilst fuel is dripping out the carb[IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.raptorforum.com/forums/images/smilies/huh.gif[/IMG] Just want to get it started up first
Leaking overflow usually is the float adjustment or bad needle and seat leaking.

Is it safe to start? Well.... You could fill the carbs with gas and close off the valve. Then start and if it runs turn the valve on and off to keep it running without the carburetor leaking.

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post #203 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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[quote=DEZPERADO;3455411]
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Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post

Leaking overflow usually is the float adjustment or bad needle and seat leaking.

Is it safe to start? Well.... You could fill the carbs with gas and close off the valve. Then start and if it runs turn the valve on and off to keep it running without the carburetor leaking.
Sooo..

Put on solenoid back on, connected jumper cables from the car to the bike and started it up.

The bike started and sounded perfect( i hope ) , i turned the fuel on and off before to get some in the carbs as they are still leaking.

Checked oil level after start up and was empty so topped it up and then started again, oil must of pumped around the bike.

Now heres a video of it started up https://youtu.be/yRIUmA2LW2w , there seems to be alot of smoke coming out the exhaust pipe area seen in the video after about 30 seconds and exhaust is really hot. ( is this normal? does it look like i bolted the exhaust on right??

Also i unscrewed the screw in the top part of the head ( picture attached ) to check if oil was going into there, and it seems to be empty even after the start up.. is the normal?
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post #204 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 05:40 PM
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[quote=YamahaSpecial;3455435]
Quote:
Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post

Sooo..

Put on solenoid back on, connected jumper cables from the car to the bike and started it up.

The bike started and sounded perfect( i hope ) , i turned the fuel on and off before to get some in the carbs as they are still leaking.

Checked oil level after start up and was empty so topped it up and then started again, oil must of pumped around the bike.

Now heres a video of it started up https://youtu.be/yRIUmA2LW2w , there seems to be alot of smoke coming out the exhaust pipe area seen in the video after about 30 seconds and exhaust is really hot. ( is this normal? does it look like i bolted the exhaust on right??

Also i unscrewed the screw in the top part of the head ( picture attached ) to check if oil was going into there, and it seems to be empty even after the start up.. is the normal?

WooHoo, YOU did it, CONGRATULATION!!

You'll have to charge your battery some more, but you might need a replacement.

Be careful of adding to much oil. I believe it's a dry sump, Meaning the motor doesn't store oil when running, it pumps the oil into the overflow tank then back to the motor. When the motor is turned off , the oil self levels between the motor and tank. Check your owners manual for the correct amount and procedure for checking the level.

I don't know about bleeding the oil on a 660. The 700 has a oil line going to the head, loosen the fitting and check for oil flow when it's running. Again, check your manual for the 660.

The exhaust looks installed properly, and yes, it will get hot. The exhaust smoke is oils from assembly burning off and is normal till the oil from your hands burns off and the rings seat in.

It doesn't take long for the rings to seat. "BUT", don't let it idle to long, start it next time and get out and ride it. Very the RPM's and don't lug for the first 1/2 to 1 hour. Your rings should be seated by then, want to get pressure behind the rings at the mid to higher RPM's.

Again, WooHoo!!
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'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #205 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 05:42 PM
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I think you'll sleep better tonight. WooHoo!!

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #206 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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I think you'll sleep better tonight. WooHoo!!

YES very happy, all that work and troubles and it works. Even took a gamble on the bottom engine replacement.

So the smokes normal, okay good thats perfect then.

I cant ride it yet as the carbs are leaking you see, i think its the gaskets as they did look at scumpled up and bent ? Where can i buy some from? All i can find is the full rebuild kits on ebay

Also did you watch the video? does it sound good? Timing look good
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post #207 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 06:04 PM
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YES very happy, all that work and troubles and it works. Even took a gamble on the bottom engine replacement.

So the smokes normal, okay good thats perfect then.

I cant ride it yet as the carbs are leaking you see, i think its the gaskets as they did look at scumpled up and bent ? Where can i buy some from? All i can find is the full rebuild kits on ebay

Also did you watch the video? does it sound good? Timing look good
Yes, I watched the video and it sounded good at idle. I didn't hear any roughness or changes in RPM's. How did it sound if you gave it some throttle?

I didn't see any timing marks so I don't know, but since it runs I would assume it's correct. Did you adjust the valves?

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #208 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I watched the video and it sounded good at idle. I didn't hear any roughness or changes in RPM's. How did it sound if you gave it some throttle?

I didn't see any timing marks so I don't know, but since it runs I would assume it's correct. Did you adjust the valves?
Okay perfect, first i started it it was idling very hard and high, but then i screwed the throttle adjuster out and then it idle perfect.

The timing i did it correct as i followed a youtube video and it went well.

No i did not adjust any valves but i guess its fine i guess?

When i pressed throttle it sounded good but i only throttled it once

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post #209 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 06:13 PM
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If the carb leaking from the overflow tube it's is most like a bad needle and seat that allows gas from the tank to fill the float bowl. There may be something small blocking it from closing all the way and the float bowl overflows. Or the needle is worn and won't seal.

If it's the space between the carb and float bowl then you need a bowl gasket. I don't know where to get one, unless you contact Mikuni.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #210 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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If the carb leaking from the overflow tube it's is most like a bad needle and seat that allows gas from the tank to fill the float bowl. There may be something small blocking it from closing all the way and the float bowl overflows. Or the needle is worn and won't seal.

If it's the space between the carb and float bowl then you need a bowl gasket. I don't know where to get one, unless you contact Mikuni.
its flowing out from the bottom part of the carb bowel, not the tubes.

What shall i do then? Shall i take the carbs apart and check for any blockage and adjust the float bowel to 3mm or something its supposed to be?

And the gaskets may be a problem on the carbs as i did say they looked a little knackerd..

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