Raptor 660 Wont start up - Page 22 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #211 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 07:30 PM
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On the bottom of the carb is there a small nipple where a tube can be hooked to? If that is where the fuel is coming out it can be an easy fix with white toothpaste and a q tip to clean where the floats have a tapered jet of sorts that seats in there. I can't think of the official name of it but I have to polish my carb bikes unit as well every year.

Hope that makes sense..

Great job on following through getting the bike to run, it sounded good through my ears as well.

[U]2006 raptor 700

DMC Force 4's, FCI W/box, Dynatek Fusion,
CP 11:1 piston, BaMotorsports porting, HC3
RacersEdge +3TB
YFZ 450 fronts & reworked rear by JOGACA
Trailtech 1 1/8 xbar w/vapor dash & Vapor installed
ODI Rogue grips & ASV pro pack levers
Fastway steering stabilizer
68HP 49TQ

PM me if you need service manuals
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post #212 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by morphrider View Post
On the bottom of the carb is there a small nipple where a tube can be hooked to? If that is where the fuel is coming out it can be an easy fix with white toothpaste and a q tip to clean where the floats have a tapered jet of sorts that seats in there. I can't think of the official name of it but I have to polish my carb bikes unit as well every year.

Hope that makes sense..

Great job on following through getting the bike to run, it sounded good through my ears as well.
Yes i think there is, i will take a video of it and some pictures tomorrow and show you my carbs,

Yeah i also had the battery fully charged but it did not start the bike , put jumper cables on a first press it fired up

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post #213 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 08:13 PM
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Is the seal rubber or a fiber gasket? If it isn't broken or gouged you might be able to rejuvinate it with some rubber conditioner. ArmorAll, 303, or tire dressing may work to soak it in overnight. If it's fiber, get a flat fiber gasket, trace the float bowl on it and carefully cut a new gasket.

I don't know what type of hardware stores there, but you might find "O" ring material. You by it round or straight length of the correct diameter and make the shape you need. You might overlap the ends slightly or use a rubber/contact cement to glue end to end.

Yes, adjust the floats to spec's.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #214 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
its flowing out from the bottom part of the carb bowel, not the tubes.

What shall i do then? Shall i take the carbs apart and check for any blockage and adjust the float bowel to 3mm or something its supposed to be?

And the gaskets may be a problem on the carbs as i did say they looked a little knackerd..
Oh, wait. I just reread this. The leakage is leaking from the bottom of the float bowl or the seam where it bolts to the carb body?? Is it the drain plug under the bottom of the float bowl? The plug can use a "O" ring of the correct size, or cut out some gasket material to fit. No "O" rings or gasket material? Do you have any flexible plastic water/milk/fizzy drink or similar containers? You might try cutting a gasket from one, the thicker, the better.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #215 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Oh, wait. I just reread this. The leakage is leaking from the bottom of the float bowl or the seam where it bolts to the carb body?? Is it the drain plug under the bottom of the float bowl? The plug can use a "O" ring of the correct size, or cut out some gasket material to fit. No "O" rings or gasket material? Do you have any flexible plastic water/milk/fizzy drink or similar containers? You might try cutting a gasket from one, the thicker, the better.
Hi, i will take the carbs apart and adjust the float which is probabaly the problem because when i took them apart before i did not adjust them or anything. I just cleaned the carbs and put them back together. They did not leak prior so i think its the float.

I also saw this engine oil on Eurocar parts on offer, I filled the bike with yamalube 10w40 semi synthetic, but as ill need to change oil after iv run in the new engine i found this alternative, Shell Advance 4T AX7 10W-40 - 4Ltr

Shall i go for that oil? or just buy another yamalube?

Also the mechanic i took the bike to in the first days of ownership said the battery was wrong and underpowered for this bike , they did write down the correct one but i lost the paper. Find picture of my current battery, and i need a option to buy a new battery for the bike ( any help would be nice )


Picture 1 ( yamalube I have put in the new rebuild )

Picture 2 ( new engine oil im asking if its ok to purchase for the oil change )

Picture 3 ( old battery )


Thanks
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post #216 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 04:57 PM
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Here is where I get my batteries, Battery mart.com. Good prices. There are 3 different ones they offer for you.

Concerning oil just make darn sure it is Jaso rated wet clutch compatible.

https://www.batterymart.com/p-mtx-15...e-battery.html

[U]2006 raptor 700

DMC Force 4's, FCI W/box, Dynatek Fusion,
CP 11:1 piston, BaMotorsports porting, HC3
RacersEdge +3TB
YFZ 450 fronts & reworked rear by JOGACA
Trailtech 1 1/8 xbar w/vapor dash & Vapor installed
ODI Rogue grips & ASV pro pack levers
Fastway steering stabilizer
68HP 49TQ

PM me if you need service manuals
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post #217 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Here is where I get my batteries, Battery mart.com. Good prices. There are 3 different ones they offer for you.

Concerning oil just make darn sure it is Jaso rated wet clutch compatible.

https://www.batterymart.com/p-mtx-15...e-battery.html

Here is the oil description, it says SMJASO MA2, which i belive is Jaso rated?


And im in the UK the delivery wont be nice from that site. Do you reccomend any brand battery i can find over here??

Thanks
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post #218 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 05:29 PM
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The oil ratings are good. battery to you will be a tough call. I have even picked them up from local Wal-mart store but I doubt you have those over there. What about from an auto store?

[U]2006 raptor 700

DMC Force 4's, FCI W/box, Dynatek Fusion,
CP 11:1 piston, BaMotorsports porting, HC3
RacersEdge +3TB
YFZ 450 fronts & reworked rear by JOGACA
Trailtech 1 1/8 xbar w/vapor dash & Vapor installed
ODI Rogue grips & ASV pro pack levers
Fastway steering stabilizer
68HP 49TQ

PM me if you need service manuals
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post #219 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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The oil ratings are good. battery to you will be a tough call. I have even picked them up from local Wal-mart store but I doubt you have those over there. What about from an auto store?
Yeah ill have a search around or go to my local motorbike store and ask them,

Okay ill order that oil for the oil change after i fix the carbs and run the bike for half a hour.


Ill keep you guys updated, will take carbs apart this week

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post #220 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
Yeah ill have a search around or go to my local motorbike store and ask them,

Okay ill order that oil for the oil change after i fix the carbs and run the bike for half a hour.


Ill keep you guys updated, will take carbs apart this week
Don't use synthetic oil for break-in. It's too slippery. Also, over here YamaLube has a bad reputation. We use RotellaT4 for break-in, and 2 oil changes after that. Then either continue with it or switch to RotellaT6, is a synthetic. I think it's made by Shell and may be what you're talking about, but whatever you use be sure it's "wet clutch" compatible, labeled as JASO as Morphrider says.

There is a sticky about float adjustment called "clear tube method". No need to remove carbs to check the float level.

Listen to Morph about batteries as I have no clue what's good or bad.
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'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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