Raptor 660 Wont start up - Page 23 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #221 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-28-2019, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Don't use synthetic oil for break-in. It's too slippery. Also, over here YamaLube has a bad reputation. We use RotellaT4 for break-in, and 2 oil changes after that. Then either continue with it or switch to RotellaT6, is a synthetic. I think it's made by Shell and may be what you're talking about, but whatever you use be sure it's "wet clutch" compatible, labeled as JASO as Morphrider says.

There is a sticky about float adjustment called "clear tube method". No need to remove carbs to check the float level.

Listen to Morph about batteries as I have no clue what's good or bad.

I purchased a 4L yamalube oil bottle, put half in for the breaking and now the first oil change i think ill have enough as i have 2.5 litres left in that same bottle. I will just use that.

I also checked the oil bleed hole at the top head and when it was started i unscrewed the bolt a little bit and oil poured out ! PERFECT it has oil where it needed to be.

I will adjust the floats then give the quad a proper break in and assemble all the lights, plastics back on.

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post #222 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-28-2019, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
I purchased a 4L yamalube oil bottle, put half in for the breaking and now the first oil change i think ill have enough as i have 2.5 litres left in that same bottle. I will just use that.

I also checked the oil bleed hole at the top head and when it was started i unscrewed the bolt a little bit and oil poured out ! PERFECT it has oil where it needed to be.

I will adjust the floats then give the quad a proper break in and assemble all the lights, plastics back on.
It's best to ride it for break-in. Just revving it won't put a proper load on the rings. And, don't let it idle anymore then possible. Just start it, warm up for 30-60 seconds and ride. After 1/2 - 1 hour you can put a load on it, also known as "ride it like you stole it", lol.
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post #223 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
It's best to ride it for break-in. Just revving it won't put a proper load on the rings. And, don't let it idle anymore then possible. Just start it, warm up for 30-60 seconds and ride. After 1/2 - 1 hour you can put a load on it, also known as "ride it like you stole it", lol.
Hi, tore the carbs down, when i checked the float height it was around 9mm haha ! found the problem straight away.

Adjusted them to 13mm on both sides and then took out all the jets and properly cleaned them , assembled back together and then they was not leaking.

However when i took the bike out and started it up on idle, i could see oil seeping out the bottom, i checked and its this oil pipe thats leaking ? Where can i get a replacement of these? I also need a replacement fuel like that goes from the tank to the carbs? Any idea where to order?


Thnaks

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post #224 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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here is the oil line leak
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post #225 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 05:42 PM
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Good job on the floats.

Is it the pipe that's leaking or the gasket? Is there a pipe on your old motor to use? Or does it need a gasket? You could make a new gasket. Or some gasket maker like non hardening Permatex. You could use silicone but not all are compatible with oil. Use any sealer sparingly so it doesn't plug part of the passage.

Your fuel hose may be generic hose, available at most auto or cycle shops. Take your old hose as a sample. Be sure it's rated for gas, not vacuum hose.

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post #226 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Good job on the floats.

Is it the pipe that's leaking or the gasket? Is there a pipe on your old motor to use? Or does it need a gasket? You could make a new gasket. Or some gasket maker like non hardening Permatex. You could use silicone but not all are compatible with oil. Use any sealer sparingly so it doesn't plug part of the passage.

Your fuel hose may be generic hose, available at most auto or cycle shops. Take your old hose as a sample. Be sure it's rated for gas, not vacuum hose.

The oils coming out of the pipe area not the gasket, theres not a old one on the other motor as this is off the old motor.

What shall i do?

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post #227 of 238 (permalink) Old 11-30-2019, 08:20 PM
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The oils coming out of the pipe area not the gasket, theres not a old one on the other motor as this is off the old motor.

What shall i do?
Chances for you to find a replacement may not be good. Message the guy you bought the motor bottom from, tell him about the problems you had to repair, and see if he'll give you his pipe. You could also try ebay. Message anyone parting out a 660. Is it leaking where the flange is welded to the pipe or a split or hole? You maybe could have it brazed or welded.

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post #228 of 238 (permalink) Old 12-01-2019, 11:22 AM
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Hi, tore the carbs down, when i checked the float height it was around 9mm haha ! found the problem straight away.

Adjusted them to 13mm on both sides and then took out all the jets and properly cleaned them , assembled back together and then they was not leaking.

However when i took the bike out and started it up on idle, i could see oil seeping out the bottom, i checked and its this oil pipe thats leaking ? Where can i get a replacement of these? I also need a replacement fuel like that goes from the tank to the carbs? Any idea where to order?


Thnaks
I think there is supposed to be an O-ring on that pipe under the plate. Id replace that or make sure there is even one on it before i get a new pipe. Unless you can plainly see a hole or crease in it...

And what DEZ said about the fuel line. Any auto store should have it, make sure its for fuel or the petrol will break it down

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post #229 of 238 (permalink) Old 12-01-2019, 01:36 PM
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How many other people are still following this thread? Give a like on this post, #229. THANKS!

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #230 of 238 (permalink) Old 12-01-2019, 02:46 PM
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I just checked a parts fisch. Sure enough, there should be an O-ring in there. Heres a screenshot, #35.

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04' raptor 660-Hot rods crank, .5mm overbore, 11:1 wiseco piston, Stage 1 hotcam, Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, K&N filter with outerwears, open lid airbox, Dynojet stage 2 jet kit
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