Raptor 660 Wont start up - Page 9 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #81 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 01:00 PM
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The timing chain I say was posted from Chino California, not China. One ends in o, the other ends in a, haha. Chances are they are all made in China.

You want at least 5mm of movement of clutch free play.

Dirty carbs and discharged battery are the most common problems for no start on 660's.

Yes, you can connect the battery, just be careful no loose wires short to the frame.

Now is the time to consider what you'll do with the head. You have three options.
(1) Put it on as is. You said there was no liquid past the valves.
(2) Lap the valves. This is easily done yourself, but you do need a valve spring compressor, stick magnet, and lapping tools. Install new seals. Should explain it in your manual.
(3) Have a valve job done with new seals by a machine shop.

How's your budget holding out? I know it's easy for me to spend your money!!

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #82 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 01:03 PM
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Don't forget you have some bolts to be replaced.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #83 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Hi, i will do some trouble shooting with electronics tomorrow then.

Yes there was no liquid coming out from the valves, i sprayed WD40 through the exhaust and intake hoes and nothing leaked through. However in the picture you can see, we identified that there was that groove/Chip near the valve, would this be causing a issue into running or is this just a minor wear and tear?

I think its best if i just clean and use the head the way it is as i dont have money to spend on the head, my initial budget was just getting a replacement battery haha, as the seller said this was the issue.

SO can i clean the head and valves etc with a toothbrush and Wd40 or carb cleaner? Or do i need a special cleaner?


So, i have seen the bolts i need on partzilla, however they are $30 postage, other sites i found dont post to the UK. DO i need that specific bolt from the dealers or can i get the same from a local hardwear store? If not, can you direct me to a site where i can buy the bolts i need.

Do i need new dowels? if so how many?

Progress so far;

1) Cylinder is sent off to be bored, and a Weisco 11:1 Piston will be provided
2) Yamaha generator cover gasket, & a full top end gasket set has been ordered ( picture attached )
3) Have both batteries fully charged via trickle.
4) Have purchased 'Red RTV 100% silicone gasket sealer & loctite 2400 ( medium strenghth)
5) Have purchased a 1/2" 282-210Nm torque wrench
6) Timing chain has been ordered

Searching for bolts atm, any help welcome

Bare in mind guys, i have never worked on a engine before, let alone a Yamaha Raptor 660 Quad Bike. This is a massive learning curb and with the help of this forum I have got this far.
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post #84 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-04-2019, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YamahaSpecial View Post
Yes there was no liquid coming out from the valves, i sprayed WD40 through the exhaust and intake hoes and nothing leaked through. However in the picture you can see, we identified that there was that groove/Chip near the valve.

SO can i clean the head and valves etc with a toothbrush and Wd40 or carb cleaner? Or do i need a special cleaner?

DO i need that specific bolt from the dealers or can i get the same from a local hardwear store? If not, can you direct me to a site where i can buy the bolts i need.

Do i need new dowels? if so how many?

1) Cylinder is sent off to be bored, and a Weisco 11:1 Piston will be provided
2) Yamaha generator cover gasket, & a full top end gasket set has been ordered ( picture attached )
3) Have both batteries fully charged via trickle.
4) Have purchased 'Red RTV 100% silicone gasket sealer & loctite 2400 ( medium strenghth)
5) Have purchased a 1/2" 282-210Nm torque wrench
6) Timing chain has been ordered

Searching for bolts atm, any help welcome

Bare in mind guys, i have never worked on a engine before, let alone a Yamaha Raptor 660 Quad Bike. This is a massive learning curb and with the help of this forum I have got this far.
I'm not sure how that chip(s) got by the valve unless someone replaced the seats and it happened. As long as it wont leak or have sharp edges it's OK. If it's sharp, round it some with sand paper or rotary tool.

Yes, you can clean the head with any solvent or WD40. I would use a degreaser after the WD40 on the gasket surface so it's not slippery. If you have something "perfectly flat" like a granite counter top or thick glass, you can check the head for warpage. Look for the instructions and specs in your manual.

YES, dowels need to be there. I don't know how many there are, but they can be reused. I would think at least 2. If damaged, try a cycle shop.

The 4 main cylinder bolts with hex heads should be replaced every rebuild but most people don't do that. So you can reuse them, I like to retorque them the next day. The smaller Allen head bolts can be replaced with quality replacement from a cycle shop or local distributer.

Just think of yourself in a motorcycle repair class. We all have to get our hands dirty to learn and you're doing a fine job so far. You never thought you would get those head bolts out, but a little perseverance and bad words and they are out. GOOD JOB!!

The assembly will get serious, so while waiting on parts, it's best to read ahead in the manual so you understand the next steps.
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'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #85 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-11-2019, 05:37 PM
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We haven't heard from you in a while, how's it going? Waiting for parts I assume.

Any luck getting the piston and the flywheel off? Be sure to measure the crank and rod side clearance.

How did your electrical turn out?

When you get your cylinder back, you'll need to wash the bore real good with hot soapy water until a white towel comes out clean. Then dry it with a hair drier or heat gun. You can wipe inside with a light coating of motor oil.

Unless done by the shop, the piston rings end gap needs to be checked before putting on the piston. During assembly, all moving parts need a coating of oil. You can even pore some oil on the crank.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #86 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-17-2019, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Hi , yes im still waiting for my cylinder to come back from being bored with a new piston so just waiting on them.

I have been trying to get the piston pin out for 4 days now with no luck, tried light tapping with a hammer, even got the piston puller but its just solid jammed in there! I think previous owner used no oil when installing? SO how can i get this pin out !

I tried to connect the battery but nothing comes on at all so im not sure what happened? maybe its becuase the bikes all apart and some ground cables not connected etc?? Going to sort electrical when its back in one piece.



I have told the shop to send the piston and rings with it all set up so hopefully they do a good job of it, yes i will give it a good clean then coating with oil.

I changed the cam chain today, the old chain was very stiff and was hard to bend, new one went on very good - however, I havent put the case back on, little trouble , there is a gap where the stator cable/rubber bit sits in the case, it wont sit flush and i cant seen to get it sealed properly

PS: someone please help on how to remove the piston pin as its so frustrating.

Shall i just pull the whole engine out as its half apart anyway and then do it that way? Or leave it in the bike?


Thanks

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post #87 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-17-2019, 09:01 PM
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I wouldn't pull the motor just yet.

I don't know what type of pin puller you have. Is it a bolt thru the pin? Try heating the piston with a hair drier/heat gun/propane torch to let it expand. Have the puller on with tension and when hot, add more tension, along with some hammer taps. Use gloves if you have them so you don't get burned. Still didn't work, try soaking the pin and piston for a few days with penetrating oil and try again. And, as above, have the puller installed with tension.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #88 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-18-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Hers the pin puller, I am just going to buy a g clamp tomorrw and push it out with that. I heated the top crank rod end and also the area around it on the piston and it still did not hammer through.

I have been told by a friend that i need to take the valves out and check if they are not bent because if they turn out to be bent when everything is installed it wont run properly apparently?

So shall i order a spring compressor and take the valves out and check them ?
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post #89 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-18-2019, 03:26 PM
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Heat the piston, not the pin or rod. Something else to try, is to put a E-Z out or similar in the pin and try to twist it to break free.

You already determined that the valves don't leak, a indication that they are probably straight. But, since the head is off, the valves could be lapped. You would need the spring compressor, stick magnet, lapping tool, lapping compound, and new seals. The lapping tool is cheap, basically a stick with suction cups and you spin in your hands.

Be sure to check the head for flatness.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #90 of 171 (permalink) Old 10-18-2019, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Ok , I will take the springs off and check if the valves are bent in case, dont want to asssemble everything with new parts and the valves be bent after i start the bike up.

If i take the valves apart, if they are fine can i just put them back together? or do i need to put new seals in?

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