Raptor 660 blowing smoke - Yamaha Raptor Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Raptor 660 blowing smoke

So, I replaced 2nd gear in this 660 a month or so ago. And, while I had it apart I took the cylinder to a buddy to have him check it out. He said it was worn beyond specs. I don't remember how much tho. But the owner didn't want to pony up more money to fix that at that time. My buddy said that it would run fine for a while, maybe a little noisy. So it' all back together, the owner has had it out and riding a couple times. Everything is fine he said. He brought it back yesterday for a new chain and sprockets. He started it up and it smoked alot. Blue smoke. He said that it hasn't done that. Well, I fired it up yesterday and it smoked alot when it first fired up. Then it kinda petered out. It would blow a little with a burst of throttle. What seems to be the cause? I'm thinking that it might be the valve guide seals IDK. I have some new seals that came with the gasket kit when I did the trans. What does it take to change those seals? Valve spring tool? Any thoughts, advice? Thanks!
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 01:34 PM
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Yep, valve guide seals. IDK if there's room to do the work without pulling the head. If you try, get or make a air fitting to fit the spark plug hole. I've taken a old spark plug, break out the ceramic and weld/braze a air fitting to it. Pressurizing the cylinder will hold the valves closed after the cam is out and you remove the valve keepers. Or, pull the head and I've use a standard, full size compressor on 700's. Speaking of 700's, I found the casting where the seal mounts is easily broken off. Just be careful. If you pull the head, I would at least lap the valves.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Yep, valve guide seals. IDK if there's room to do the work without pulling the head. If you try, get or make a air fitting to fit the spark plug hole. I've taken a old spark plug, break out the ceramic and weld/braze a air fitting to it. Pressurizing the cylinder will hold the valves closed after the cam is out and you remove the valve keepers. Or, pull the head and I've use a standard, full size compressor on 700's. Speaking of 700's, I found the casting where the seal mounts is easily broken off. Just be careful. If you pull the head, I would at least lap the valves.

Alrighty thank you. I think I would just pull the head. It isn't that difficult and probably safer.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-29-2019, 06:55 AM
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Besides a valve spring compressor you should have a pencil type magnet to remove and install the keepers. When installing the seals a little spit helps them slide easier. Just not mine, haha!

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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