Electrical problems, slow crank, blowing fuses.... - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-17-2009, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Electrical problems, slow crank, blowing fuses....

Hey guys,

Just rebuilt my L&A one-way starter bearing, and finally got the machine back together.
Went to start the quad, and it would crank slow (fully charged battery), as if the battery was dead . At the same time, I would get spark (like a loose connection) from the positive terminal. Positive wire would get hot very quickly.

To me, it sounds like something is binding up. Before the starter bearing went out, I had a positive terminal on a brand new battery, melt. All the connections were strong and tight.
Going to take some time and back track the issue.

I do have another wire harness, spare ignitions, CDI, ect.

Not sure what to do. Tried switching the start switch. Blowing the positive fuses now.

Any suggestions would be great.
I've got all winter to fix it.
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post #2 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-17-2009, 01:52 PM
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Loosen the starter and wiggle it around some - sometimes it gets 'cocked' in the side case bore due to the very tight o-ring, causing it to bind with the intermediate gear.

Does the bike start finally? THere's always the chance that the engine is binding up or the starter's bearings are bad. Pull the spark plug and see if things crank over normally. If not, then pull the starter intermediate gear and check again.

Blowing fuses should be unrelated to the slow cranking. The only fuse in the system (the other one on the solenoid is just a spare) is outside of the starter circuit. Since the fuse started blowing only when you swapped solenoids, I'd suspect the new solenoid first... but it's much more likely that you have a wire shorting somewhere. Under what conditions does the fuse blow?

A spark from the battery terminal implies a bad connection - one or the other surfaces dirty or corroded. Disconnect and clean both the battery's and the lug's mating surfaces with a wire brush then reconnect and tighten with a wrench - you can't get them tight enough with a screwdriver.

Also wiggle the wire near the lug and make sure that it is intact. Corrosion can get inside the lug or the insulation near the lug and eat away at the copper, leaving a poor connection that will get very hot under starting current.

I'm betting that the slow crank / hot terminal is related to a bad or corroded connection at the battery.

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Last edited by QuadManiac; 12-17-2009 at 02:04 PM.
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post #3 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-17-2009, 09:48 PM
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post #4 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 02:27 AM
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Willy- you hve what sounds like a "shunt" condition on your positive turminal side(weak connection or feed) Are you using the stock size wire to batery? if not-replace. besides cleaning the terminal REAL GOOD, check the connection at the starter. Clean again. I sugest using a wire brush on all conections. If still poblems, check solinoid/starter. lol
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post #5 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 01:36 PM
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I don't see how connection issues at the starter are going to cause sparks/melting at the battery terminal - this is caused solely by high current passing through a higher than normal resistance ONLY at the point where it is heating. Poor cable connection at the starter could cause slow cranking, but due to the other symptoms, I don't think it's connection at starter related - it is most likely loose or corroded connection at the battery (as we both described).

This also doesn't meet the definition (as I understand it) of a 'shunt'. Exactly what are you describing in the use of this term? A shunt (relative to battery systems) is typically a connection inserted in series with a battery feed with a low, known resistance so, by measuring the voltage drop across the shunt, the current passing through it can be calculated.

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'04 Suzuki LTZ400
'16 RZR XP4 1000 Turbo

Last edited by QuadManiac; 12-18-2009 at 01:45 PM.
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post #6 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 07:17 PM
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You are correct in all your assertions. I used the term "shunt" in quotes to describe a genaric not absolute condition. That is that there is a restriction in current flow or high resistance due to a bad or lose connection. I should be a little more specific in my laguage. Sorry. I forget you are a EE. I thought ALL conections should be cleaned as a matter of completness, not cause. Ill try to clean up my language. Thanks for straitening me out. Hope all this helps willykiller.
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post #7 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 07:20 PM
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Why should this help me...........


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post #8 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 07:37 PM
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Sorry, Ment parde. Im competely lost today. I need a beach with two legged deer.
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post #9 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-18-2009, 11:01 PM
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LOL, np, Thumper. You've got the understanding of the basic issue, I beleive. But now you have me lost... what's a 2 legged deer?

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'04 Suzuki LTZ400
'16 RZR XP4 1000 Turbo
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post #10 of 106 (permalink) Old 12-19-2009, 04:48 PM
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Let me see if I can help. Here is a hint. Thay walk round on the beach with a two piece bathing suit on (depends on the beach) Hence the term "Two leg deer." Bouth two and the four leged version are hunted by man. Sorry to get off track. I hope we helped Pardee. He hasent chimed in with results. What is the outcome?
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