Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained
Ok, as they said, the rubber snorkel I refer to is the rubbery peace of tuber that fits onto the airbox lid. Remove it, it just drops power output. It has a single clamp, loosen it and pull it off. If you look inside the dynojet kit, they tell you to cut some restrictions out of it. Don't bother. Liek I said, just rip it off, and put it away.
Then the "tubes". I don;t knw what is the right word to descrive them, but remove the lid, and turn it upside down. Look at the way the air is comming into the lid. You will see there is two seperate passges or "tubes". Where they suck in clean air, they are wide, but the tube narrows towards the end where they lead into the airbox, assuming the lid is on. Those tubes restric airflow, so cut the tubes open. Meaning, take all the plastic inside the airbox lid out, so those tubes disapear. You will still end up with the two passges leading to the outside, of the lid, but don't mess with those.
I will try and get a puctire for you guys to see what the modified airbox lid looks like.
But, if you want the best power, the best is just to remove the whoel lid, and install a air cleaner wwith a billet adaptor. Thwen you don't need to bother with the lid.
I liek to install Outerwears airbox clovers on all the quads I modify. Thos eairbox cover will stop mud and water splaches from gettigng into the airbox. These things let air thru, but keep the other stuff out. I still advice peopel to be carefull aroudn water, but the cover works well.
Then, if your bike is already jetted, and you do the carb and intake mods, you most likely can go up a jet size on each carb.
Then, the 3mm.
Like they said, find the place where the carb and the float bowl comes together. Then with the carbs upright, or normal mounting position, measure 3mm up from the split.
A easy way to find 3mm, is to look at the carb. Find the split. Then if you look at it, and you move your eyes up a tad, you will see it has a shoulder, which goes over the float bowl and hold it it place. IF you go a tad futher up, you will see form the shoulder there is a 45 degree angle or support. Where that 45 degree angel stops, or joins up with flat body of the carb, that is 3mm. Mark where the shoulder and flat side meets, and you make sure the fuel level is level with that mark.
Hope that clears up a few things.
These mods have been tested over and over again. I personally have done around 50 raptors with these mods and the owners love it.
While you are working on the bike, make sure the valve gaps are checked and set correctly.
To put this into perspective. If you drag race over 300 ft, and struggled with a close competitor, these mods will give you 2 to 3 bike lengths over the other guy. You will feel the increase instantly, without even taking it to a dyno.