Carb mods and Clear tube method explained - Page 2 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #11 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-11-2006, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

Thanks guys.

Ok, as they said, the rubber snorkel I refer to is the rubbery peace of tuber that fits onto the airbox lid. Remove it, it just drops power output. It has a single clamp, loosen it and pull it off. If you look inside the dynojet kit, they tell you to cut some restrictions out of it. Don't bother. Liek I said, just rip it off, and put it away.

Then the "tubes". I don;t knw what is the right word to descrive them, but remove the lid, and turn it upside down. Look at the way the air is comming into the lid. You will see there is two seperate passges or "tubes". Where they suck in clean air, they are wide, but the tube narrows towards the end where they lead into the airbox, assuming the lid is on. Those tubes restric airflow, so cut the tubes open. Meaning, take all the plastic inside the airbox lid out, so those tubes disapear. You will still end up with the two passges leading to the outside, of the lid, but don't mess with those.

I will try and get a puctire for you guys to see what the modified airbox lid looks like.

But, if you want the best power, the best is just to remove the whoel lid, and install a air cleaner wwith a billet adaptor. Thwen you don't need to bother with the lid.

I liek to install Outerwears airbox clovers on all the quads I modify. Thos eairbox cover will stop mud and water splaches from gettigng into the airbox. These things let air thru, but keep the other stuff out. I still advice peopel to be carefull aroudn water, but the cover works well.

Then, if your bike is already jetted, and you do the carb and intake mods, you most likely can go up a jet size on each carb.

Then, the 3mm.

Like they said, find the place where the carb and the float bowl comes together. Then with the carbs upright, or normal mounting position, measure 3mm up from the split.

A easy way to find 3mm, is to look at the carb. Find the split. Then if you look at it, and you move your eyes up a tad, you will see it has a shoulder, which goes over the float bowl and hold it it place. IF you go a tad futher up, you will see form the shoulder there is a 45 degree angle or support. Where that 45 degree angel stops, or joins up with flat body of the carb, that is 3mm. Mark where the shoulder and flat side meets, and you make sure the fuel level is level with that mark.

Hope that clears up a few things.

These mods have been tested over and over again. I personally have done around 50 raptors with these mods and the owners love it.

While you are working on the bike, make sure the valve gaps are checked and set correctly.

To put this into perspective. If you drag race over 300 ft, and struggled with a close competitor, these mods will give you 2 to 3 bike lengths over the other guy. You will feel the increase instantly, without even taking it to a dyno.
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post #12 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-11-2006, 04:04 PM
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

Ok, i ve got another stupid question,
i know understand the 3mm concept but, what is the correct way to push the clear pipe up against the carb? Ive found that this can be misleading dependend on how it gets pushed up against the carb.
Just as a point of interest: My floats was set at about 10mm.
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post #13 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

There is no special way or trick to hold the clear tube next to the carb. The only thing you need to worry about it that the fuel does not run out of the top of the tube. As long as the tip of the tube is higher than the fuel level, you’re fine. Then, move the tube close to where you can clearly see the 3mm line on the carb, and compare that to the fuel level inside the pipe.

Just remember to get rid of any air bubbles in the tube, before you measure the 3mm level. A couple of taps against the tube, will sort the bubbles out.
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post #14 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 03:18 PM
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

Freez from qpr?
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post #15 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 10:55 PM
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

few more valueble questons. The end of the clear tube is it suposed to be at? a certain level of the carb are above?

I now almost fully understand this method and will be doing it after next atv event dureing maintance like oil change clean the filter and I will also clean the carbs and check jetings and such.

So to go back stock i will need new air lid if i cut on it and also put back on the snorkle correct?
Will the fuel/air screw need to be mess with doing this mod?
And If i ride in heavy mud events should i keep snorkle on I thought of the prefilter for the k&n i got but still concern about mud /water geting into box. most trail and events are 98% dirt and mud free but some can get unexspectly muddy as crap cause they presoak the tracks for the 4x4 guys who like to tare it up. I sure aperciate Your reply back to my questions and thanks again for all the info pics and post.
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post #16 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

660RaptorR, yes QPR is my company.

Ok, last try to clear up the clear tube measurement. Get yourself a clear tube than fits the drain plug fitting on the float bowl. It does not have to be an exact length, but about 12" should be fine.

Attach the clear tube to the drain plug and bend the other end upwards. The open end should be higher that the mating surface of the carb and the float bowl. Any height is fine, so long as it is higher than the matting surface.

Just hold the clear tube high enough to prevent the fuel from overflowing out of the pipe.

The fuel level is not worried about how high you hold the open end. The fuel level will be consistent, no matter how high the open end is.

O, and don't close the fuel supply from the fuel tank, when you do these checks.

Look at the picture below, and try and figure the “path” of the clear tube. It is very visible, just keep in mind that the tubes passes behind the "fitting" that attaches the throttle cable to the carbs. You will see it comes out the top of the “triangular plate thing" and ends nearly at the top of the carb. I fit it like that, so that I don’t have to use my hands to hold it in place. You will get an idea of how I fit the clear tube. In the photo, the open end is nearly as high as the top of the carb. But again, like I said, a bit higher or lower than that is fine, it will not mess with the reading.

Try changing the height of the open end, and you will see the fuel level stay constant. That’s just how levels work.

Again guys, there is not specific high, just hold it high enough so that the fuel does not run out the open end. It’s that simple.


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post #17 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 02:23 AM
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

How will i get charged to do the above and to do the valve clearances?
I dont want to stuff up anything
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post #18 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 11:29 AM
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

thanks for info i tottaly get this method now and cant wait to try it out. on the other hand how about in muddy condition shuld the snorkle be left on?
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post #19 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-14-2006, 03:59 PM
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

I vote for this thread to be stickied.
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post #20 of 250 (permalink) Old 10-14-2006, 09:01 PM
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Re: Carb mods and Clear tube method explained

So what would flow more air: a lid that has been modified to the max (holes, baffles cut out), or an outerwears airbox cover (not the filter sock, the actual cover that replaces the lid)?
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