I have read heaps about doing the flipped link mod to the 660, & problems with binding, & yes it's good, no its bad etc.
So I figured lets do it, doccument the process, & mod as required to prevent any binding happening if the suspension bottoms out.
Wash the Quad well first, a clean bike is easier to work on (trust me, you will still find dirt/sand/dogshit etc in all sorts of crevices & hidden corners)
1/ Support the Quad on a stand or box that will lift the rear wheels off the ground
2/ For ease of access remove the rear wheels (I didn't, but it would have helped)
3/ Unbolt the rear suspension linkage complete from the swingarm (1 bolt) & the chassis (2 bolts)
4/ Remove the complete linkage from the quad
(see pic 1)
5/ Remove the bottom pivot bolt for the shock
6/ Turn the linkage over & put the bolt back in, but don't put the nut back on
(see pic 3)
7/ Pivot the link on the shock until the link hits the bottom spring carrier
8/ With a vivid marker draw a line around the bottom spring carrier to clear it by about 1/4" (6mm)
(see pic 4)
9/ Use a linishing belt or grinding wheel to grind away the metal in the marked off area
Keep the edges smooth & the shape nicely rounded, or you could create a stress point where the link might ultimately fracture (if you keep bottoming things out)
10/ Reassemble & check the clearance
(See pic 7)
11/ Strip Clean & paint the ground edges so they won't rust
12/ Clean out all the bushes, bolts washers, spacers etc (or you'll have grit & rubbish in all the linkages & they will grind themselves apart
13/ Grease & re-assemble the complete linkage
14/ Re-fit to the quad, & then give several shots of grease into each grease nipple to ensure plenty of fresh grease is in all the pivot points
The back of your quad will now sit 2-3" lower, & the handling will be significantly improved due to getting the centre of gravity lower.
Widen the back end, widen the front end & fit YFZ shocks, & you'll be set to rock!
Click on these links for a better description of binding concerns and fixes:
Not to beat a dead horse and start another thread about flipping the 02'-05' rear shock link but there seems to be two sides to check for binding and possible grinding to safely accomplish the flipped link mod. The thread starts perfect for the steel clearance check but does not mention the possible binding on the backside of the shock end with the dog bone. Not sure why but it seems like some people need to only modify the steel piece and others only the aluminum dog bone and yet others need to do both. I bought a 2002 link and shock from ebay with the link already flipped but the shock rod is bent and from the looks of it, it was caused by the second area that should have been checked for binding, the dog bone to back of rebound adjuster. I have attached a picture of the area in question with red circles around the problem area. As for the new sticky it might be helpful to others to have the original post with the descriptions of this other issue and how people solved it with as many pictures as possible of what people did and how much they ground off with no issues or for that matter even if it went bad it could help people stay away from the same mistake. The current sticky has a good description of the second area of bind but not till page 17 or so. Hope this at least helps others read the whole sticky before trying the mod. Once again thank you to every one for the great info and making the Raptor that much nicer to own, ride and work on.
I machined off about 4mm at the corner of the raised area tapering back towards the spring collar with no issues. This might help for any one looking to grind off some of this area to help with clearance but afraid to go to deep and wreck the shock (this is a 2002 shock). I also grooved the dog bone a bit to help just in case. I will try to mount this up to the raptor this weekend and take pictures at both full rebound and full jounce to show the clearance on the steel bracket and the clearance on the dog bone to the back of the shock look.