I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: PACIFIC N.W.
I believe your rear is to wide if you have stock a-arms on the front. Rule of thumb is the rear should be narrower then the front. You may have a wider aftermarket axle and thick spacers, offset rear wheels, or extended hubs. Try to narrow it, even running the wheels reversed. Valve stem inside only on the rear, never on the front.
Set up your shocks first. Get the sag adjusted to your weight, set shock adjusters to the middle. Your WORKS shocks may not have any adjustment except sag, (spring). Shock reservoirs hold extra oil for cooling but most important is nitrogen to reduce foaming, (bubbles).
If you run a longer swing arm get the shock built for that, not factory length.
Your steering stem, as said, is a anti vibration system. It helps some but you may need a steering stabilizer, attaches to the bottom of the stem.
What's the off set of your wheels? To much out and not enough in can cause bump steer and arm pump.
I would decrease rear tire pressure to around 5lbs.
Ask Kevin (JOGACA) about your WORKS shocks, if you don't use them maybe use for trade. YFZ shocks won't fit the 660 without mods, (grinding).
'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.