How to stop the squeak squeak. - Page 2 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-29-2009, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironlemon View Post
....
2. Once you have the bearing out drill a small hole in it ( i cant remember the size i used) to allow grease in.

Just got the shock out.. how do you remove the bearing? I'm afraid to take a flathead to it in fear of messing something up.

Any one!!? My bike is in pieces until this gets solved

also, I know to drill a hole into the top of the shock, but drill a hole in the bearing as well? or just the shock?

'05 Raptor 660r
Full Yoshimura Exhaust
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K&N, ITP Holeshots

Last edited by Veloci660; 10-29-2009 at 08:32 AM.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-25-2009, 12:36 PM
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C Clip

I was at the same spot. Once you take the rubber dust cover off it will expose the inner bearing. The c clip is inside the grove and there will be an open spot you can pry it from. You need a narrow sharp object to get behind the clip with to bend it out. I used a small flat head screw driver that I ground the tip down a bit to make it very thin. Once both clips are out you can remove the bearing. The hard part now is drilling the hole. I snapped a cobalt bit so I have on order the recommend bit to try. The tough part is getting the hole started, may be good to start with a cone shaped grinding pad for the dremel or something. Good luck!

2003 Yamaha Raptor 660R
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-26-2009, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kylebb2005 View Post
I was at the same spot. Once you take the rubber dust cover off it will expose the inner bearing. The c clip is inside the grove and there will be an open spot you can pry it from. You need a narrow sharp object to get behind the clip with to bend it out. I used a small flat head screw driver that I ground the tip down a bit to make it very thin. Once both clips are out you can remove the bearing. The hard part now is drilling the hole. I snapped a cobalt bit so I have on order the recommend bit to try. The tough part is getting the hole started, may be good to start with a cone shaped grinding pad for the dremel or something. Good luck!

can you take a pic of this?? I ended up not doing it, or just greasing the crap out of the bearing in there and the outer washers and putting it back together. That was weeks ago and no squeaks since, but I still want to put a grease cert in there at some point.

I have some Snap On bits that are pretty good... hopefully I don't snap them but I'm expecting to... not worried about it really.

'05 Raptor 660r
Full Yoshimura Exhaust
GYTR skids, guards
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-26-2009, 07:31 PM
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Omg thank you, Ima try this...totally had it with the squeak squeak. Soooo annoying.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 03:38 PM
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a good way to start the drill bit on a hardened surface is with a center punch. make the indent then your drill bit wont wander about while trying to get it started always start with a smaller bit bit and work your way to the size you want
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 04:46 PM
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Some motor oil or chain lube will due for me, putting a zerk in the shock is a little to much if you ask me.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 03:17 PM
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what about swing arm squeek does anyone know what to do to get rid of this squeek withoug changing the bushing?

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 11:36 PM
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what about swing arm squeek does anyone know what to do to get rid of this squeek withoug changing the bushing?
add some grease fittings there too..?

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 01:02 PM
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I drilled the swinger, front and rear, for zerks .... but used grease zerk bolts for the upper & lower shock and link bolts .... much easier / lazy
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 07:47 PM
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what is the top shock mounting bolt suposed to be tourqe to
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