How to put a 700 shock on a 660 (using stock linkages) - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-27-2010, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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How to put a 700 shock on a 660 (using stock linkages)

ok there have been alot of questions about this, and i did this today so ill tell you how to do it... its super simple
since the 700 shock is a half inch longer you need to drill a hole in the linkage (12mm is the bit size i think), to compensate for the length...it should be about 1.5 inches away from the stock shock mounting hole, towards the center of the linkage and about a 7/8 inches down from the top of the linkage. (as seen in the pictures).

from there everything bolts up exactly the same as it did before. no flipping the linkage for none of that stuff. all it is a hole relocation and your done. the bottom picture shows the difference in hole placement on the bike. and make sure you lub. everything up real good its helps allot in every aspect.

the bike sits a little higher but being a 190lb pound rider when i get on it, it compresses to where it would normally be. this is a great susp. mod it is so much smoother now.. i highly recommend it.

hope this helps you guys out.
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05 rappy 660--->AC nerf bars, 6 pack grab bar, front bumper with teeth , intake, full exhaust, jets, lightened
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-27-2010, 10:50 PM
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What if I wanted to flip the rear link to make it lower??

Could I just drill the hole farther back or more towards the bottm and it would work the same?

And then if I was drilling a new hole I wouldn't have to flip the link?

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Located in Southwestern Pennsylvania.We make bumpers for ATV's and UTV's and we do welding repairs /custom fabricating / machine shop/ just about anything to do with steel working/ if you have any ideas for something custom we can work with you to try to build build it.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-27-2010, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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if you flip the link with this setup then it wont do much for you at all, being as is the hole for the shock is near the middle you would only from it an 1/8 or an inch if you flipped it..

as far as drilling it farther back i guess you could go back as far as you wanted to as long as you didnt hit the bearing for where it connects to the swing arm. and it would have a lowering affect, as far as how much lower it would take you i have no idea. but if you are trying to make it lower dont go with the 700 shock its longer lol go with the 660 shock and flip the link that will drop you an inch i think..

i didnt mention this in the post put this is where the elka linkage would sit if you bought that. except instead of paying 300 dollars for billet aluminum you get the same bolt pattern for free

05 rappy 660--->AC nerf bars, 6 pack grab bar, front bumper with teeth , intake, full exhaust, jets, lightened
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 12:55 AM
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Good post ! Glad this worked out for you !

Get on my level Brother
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 09:34 AM
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great post got my vote for a sticky for shure

01' BlackBack Raptor 660R-XC setup w/to much to list


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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 10:56 AM
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I was wondering just because I thought a used 700 shock would be less worn out then my 9 year old 660 shock...but I wanted to flip the link...Maybe once some of this snow melts or I do more shoveling I'll get it in the shop and take a look at what I can do with it.

Good post,thanks.

Double M Steel,

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/p...4080972?ref=ts

Located in Southwestern Pennsylvania.We make bumpers for ATV's and UTV's and we do welding repairs /custom fabricating / machine shop/ just about anything to do with steel working/ if you have any ideas for something custom we can work with you to try to build build it.
Check out the link for for contact information or send me a PM and I'll get back as soon as I can.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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you could try using the 700 shock with the flipped link i think you might just have to do some grinding (for clearance issues) but in my opinion drilling is an easy solution.

but thanks guys i can make it all better grammar and junk if they want to make it a sticky

05 rappy 660--->AC nerf bars, 6 pack grab bar, front bumper with teeth , intake, full exhaust, jets, lightened
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 10:49 PM
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Wouldn't this change the suspension geometry? Any differences in ride other than the 'smoothness' you mentioned?

2003 Yamaha Raptor 660:
Yoshimura TRS Carbon/Ti
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Barnett Carbon Clutch
I.M.S. Heel Guards
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'06 YFZ Front Shocks
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PRM Full Skids
Lonestar Stainless Tie-Rods
L & A One-Way
IMS Desert Tank
C.E.C. Bumper
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HiPer CF1's
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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well yea it does change the geometry.. but it changes it in a way that does not hurt the shock or the linkage via not putting it at an angle that causes more stress to either of these parts or changeing the way the shock compresses... and as far as hurting the linkafe the place where you drill this new hole is stronger because its almost in the middle of the linkage instead of the top of it where it could crack easier...

but the travel is noticablly more.. i have not had it on trails yet i just did some testing in the field.. so i cant tell you it reacts differently while turning sharply or jumping..
the smoothness is wat does it for me because ride quality is way better..

05 rappy 660--->AC nerf bars, 6 pack grab bar, front bumper with teeth , intake, full exhaust, jets, lightened
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 10:59 AM
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this isn't a sticky yet? def should be

01' BlackBack Raptor 660R-XC setup w/to much to list


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