660 with 700 rear shock vs stock vs flipped link w/ pics - Yamaha Raptor Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-04-2011, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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660 with 700 rear shock vs stock vs flipped link w/ pics

So I was looking to upgrade my 660 rear suspension and I was looking through several threads about using 700 rear suspension components. This week I finally got my parts and found time to install them. When I bought my 660 I had the stock rear setup and I later flipped the rear link.

In short:
With the stock rear setup my grab bar was at about 34.5 to 35 inches.
With the stock setup but flipped rear link my grab bar was at 31 inches.
With the 700 combo the grab bar was 33 inches.

From what I read the 700 rear shock (preferably the SE with hs/ls compression adjustment) was the best to use. Use the 700 rear linkage (see note about new hole) but the 660 dogbone. On the 700 linkage I drilled a new 12mm hole that is exactly 1.5 inches (center to center) towards the solid end from the previous hole (I'm pretty sure the linkage is flipped from stock on the 700). The new hole drilled the same distance from the edge as the first hole but it on the opposite side of the linkage (see picture). I used several 7/16" (12mm) ID washers that had a large OD to space between the shock and the sides of the linkage as the stock setup was welded in place as can be seen.

I haven't taken the travel measurements but the setup is supposed to add several inches of travel over the stock setup as well as increase suspension performance. From my initial testing the suspension was a major upgrade as it soaked up the bumps much better. I will try to catch air with it to see how it handles the larger bumps but I have a feeling that is going to be much better as well.

Picture 1 is stock measurement
Picture 2 is flipped link measurement
Picture 3 is side shot with flipped rear link side shot (front was sitting slightly high due to preload adjustment)
Picture 4 is 700 rear combo measurement
Picture 5 is 700 combo side shot
Picture 6 is 700 combo in place (hole location can be seen)

I will update everyone with anything else I find and feel free to ask questions
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2007 700-
11:1 Wiseco piston, +5 HR crank, Lucky700R ported head, HDD5050 cam, +3TB, DMC Force IV duals, MSD Blaster FI controller, UNI pod filters, ITP Beadlock rims + more

2001 Raptor-
100.5mm 11:1 Wiseco piston, balanced crank, trail ported head, Ferrea valves, stage 2 HC, Barker duals, UNI pod filters + more

2007 pitbike-
150cc Lifan engine, 26mm Mikuni carb, 32mm custom stainless steel exhaust, 12" motard tires, working on LED

Last edited by maxtrax; 12-04-2011 at 09:05 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2011, 12:18 AM
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Some very usefull information you have posted. Something I might consider doing. Please let us know how it rides over the stock 660 setup when you get some good seat time on it.

2002 raptor 660- full yoshi, K&n pro flow, DJ Kit, YFZ front shocks, Itp holeshot tires
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-09-2011, 11:40 AM
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I love how low it is with the flipped link. I'm assuming that you can't use the front stock shocks with the flipped rear link?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-10-2011, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by boostedboxer04 View Post
I love how low it is with the flipped link. I'm assuming that you can't use the front stock shocks with the flipped rear link?
I'm not sure. I had +2+1 with +1 offset front rims on it. With the 700SE front shocks it sat really high. I think with a good set of YFZ front shocks (preload settings would be lower) that it would work better.

Also had someone send me this:
I ride trails a lot and enjoy all the ground clearance I have right now. But I wouldn't mind up dating my rear setup with a 700 shock. Is there any way I could use the 700 shock and keep my stock ride height?

To answer this question my measurements were all taken at the rear grab bar. With the geometry of the bike 2" at the rear grab bar is probably only 1/2-3/4" difference at the frame. IMO this would be a good tradeoff considering a slightly lower center of gravity will help in cornering. With the increased travel and better shock, the ride will be much smoother too. There may be a way to assemble the components and keep a stock ride height but I never tried it because that was not my goal.

My guess from looking at the hole locations and design is do it exactly like I did only drill the hole more centered in the link. Obviously you would need to check for binding and such though.


2007 700-
11:1 Wiseco piston, +5 HR crank, Lucky700R ported head, HDD5050 cam, +3TB, DMC Force IV duals, MSD Blaster FI controller, UNI pod filters, ITP Beadlock rims + more

2001 Raptor-
100.5mm 11:1 Wiseco piston, balanced crank, trail ported head, Ferrea valves, stage 2 HC, Barker duals, UNI pod filters + more

2007 pitbike-
150cc Lifan engine, 26mm Mikuni carb, 32mm custom stainless steel exhaust, 12" motard tires, working on LED
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-12-2011, 10:35 AM
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[QUOTE=maxtrax;998576]When I bought my 660 I had the stock rear setup and I later flipped the rear link.

Picture 2 is flipped link measurement
Picture 3 is side shot with flipped rear link side shot (front was sitting slightly high due to preload adjustment)QUOTE]

What do you mean by flip the link ? Im really interested in doing this with my 01 660 since its EFFD up right now anyway lol. Do you just flip it end to end or spin it over ? thanks
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-12-2011, 12:04 PM
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[quote=01REP660;1000365]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxtrax View Post
When I bought my 660 I had the stock rear setup and I later flipped the rear link.

Picture 2 is flipped link measurement
Picture 3 is side shot with flipped rear link side shot (front was sitting slightly high due to preload adjustment)QUOTE]

What do you mean by flip the link ? Im really interested in doing this with my 01 660 since its EFFD up right now anyway lol. Do you just flip it end to end or spin it over ? thanks
There is a sticky on this at the top of the suspension forum but here is the direct link.

https://www.raptorforum.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=24958
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-12-2011, 01:00 PM
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[quote=01REP660;1000365]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxtrax View Post
When I bought my 660 I had the stock rear setup and I later flipped the rear link.

Picture 2 is flipped link measurement
Picture 3 is side shot with flipped rear link side shot (front was sitting slightly high due to preload adjustment)QUOTE]

What do you mean by flip the link ? Im really interested in doing this with my 01 660 since its EFFD up right now anyway lol. Do you just flip it end to end or spin it over ? thanks
You just take the three bolts out of the link rotate 180 and put back together but im pretty sure the link is different from 01 and 02-05 on the 01 I think the hole is in the center of the link and 02-05 the hole is offset.

07 700 SE Black And Orange
DMC Force 4,PCV,Rock nerf/fat pegs. YFZ Clutch Kit with 30% Stronger Springs 105.5mm CP piston, HDD 5050, Ported Head by Lucky700R, FCI Intake, +3 TB,+1 anti-vibe stem.

02 686 Black & White
Hot Cams stage 2,Wiseco 102 11:1 piston,Hinson clutch basket and pressure plate,Gytr clutch kit,Alba full exhaust,Renthal bars,Alba bumper,6 pack rack,Alba nerf bars,Full skid plates
STOLEN
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2012, 11:26 AM
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I have the 700 linkages, now jist need the 700 shock :-)

2003 Raptor 660LE
727cc
105mm 14.5:1 CP piston
X-4 cam & no decomp
39mm FCR's
HV ported Willykiller 3-Plug head
Ferrea SS Valves
Custom In-Frame Duals
GYTR Clutch

Faast Flexx Bars
Custom +3+1 A-Arms
CCP Steering Damper (I must post a thread on how to....)
450 Front Calipers
+2 Extended Swingarm
G-Force Axle & Hubs.
Axis Pro-Air Shocks
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