Push the start button & nothing happens! HELP! - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Push the start button & nothing happens! HELP!

Alright everybody, I need some help please. 2005 Raptor 660. Got it home from my craigslist trade and every thing was as great as it could be considering what I traded for it. Crank right up and ran great. Needs some TLC but the motor seemed strong. Parked it (backed it into garage), put it into neutral, shut it off. Next day, turned the key, slid the kill switch to run, made sure it was ALL the way in neutral (able to roll the quad without pulling in the clutch lever), hit the button, and nothing happened. Not even a click. I double checked that I had the bike in the quad in the correct position to crank, still nothing, no click or anything. Pulled in the clutch to start, still nothing. So I checked the fuse and it was fine and correctly installed. I changed the fuse anyway, nothing, no click. Jumped the starter relay with a screwdriver and the starter engages and the motor thumps over but won't crank. So I pulled the spark plug and inserted it back into the wire, pushed it against the header for ground, jumped the starter, no spark. Took off the switches off and cleaned everything and also WD-40 everything, still nothing. The kid that I got this quad from had some rigged things already going on with some of the electrical so I went ahead and changed the Ignition switch and key, changed the coil and wire, the spark plug, starter relay, and the rectifier. All known good new parts. I don't know what to do with this thing now. Help please !!!!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 08:05 PM
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Do your head lites work? Do they go dim when you hit the start button? Can you bumb start the motor?

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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The Headlights come on ... they don't dim when I hit the button ... I can't bump/roll the quad and get it to start
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 08:21 PM
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Will the dash turn on when you turn the key on?

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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yes the dash comes on .... green neutral light illuminates when in neutral and shuts off when in gear ... the temp light doesn't come on when I hit the button or when I jump the relay ... the reverse light did illuminate when the quad was running and I would put it in reverse
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 10:06 PM
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Closely follow all wires, something is grounding out. Check connections at switch on bars real good.
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[U]2006 raptor 700

DMC Force 4's, FCI W/box, Dynatek Fusion
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Trailtech 1 1/8 xbar w/vapor dash & Vapor installed
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PRM Edge Baja bumper w/12" Cree spot/flood bar
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PRM A-Arm skids, GYTR skid, ProArmor swinger skid
Fastway steering stabilizer
68HP 49TQ

PM me if you need service manuals
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 10:51 PM
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Most likely, the run/stop switch has dirty/corroded contacts.

Try putting the quad in reverse - key on, run/stop in run. Does reverse light come on? If not, then (again most likely) the run/stop is not providing 12V to the CDI on the red/black wire. You can pierce the red/black wire with a straight pin and measure voltge from the pin to battery minus... better be 12V with switches as described above.

Remove and clean the run/stop switch! OR, since you've changed a bunch of stuff, just verify what's on the red/black.

Bottom line - you MUST have 12V at the red/black CDI wire or no spark, no start, no nothing.

You should have 12v -->

on Red wire from solenoid to rec/reg and to key switch
on red/white wire from key switch to run/stop switch
on red/black wire from run/stop switch to CDI

Let me know if any of the above is NOT true!

Also, you may have more than one issue - the temp light not coming on when the start button is pressed has nothing to do with whether 12V is at the CDI or not... only whether the bulb and diode in the circuit are good and the wiring is connected correctly - period.

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
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'16 RZR XP4 1000 Turbo

Last edited by QuadManiac; 12-16-2016 at 11:04 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all ... i'm very glad that I joined this forum ... I will get a multi-meter tomorrow and give your suggestions a try ... I will be back to you with my results ... I have already taken the switch apart and done a pretty thorough inspection and cleaning. All things seemed good and operational and it honestly wasn't very dirty to begin with but I will check it again after reading the voltage ... I also checked the connector near handle bars and things looked good there also ... I will check my voltage and let you know my results and thank y'all again
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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ok ... first thing I did was check for the reverse light like you said and the light would not come on ... so I took the switches back off and apart and sure enough the small spring behind the contacts for the run/kill switch was broken ... just so happened that a small pair of pliers I have had a small spring on it. I removed that spring, trimmed it down a bit and used it as a replacement ... voila she lives again!!! Thanks again.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 09:00 PM
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Woohoo - I just love makin' things work with totally unrelated parts!

Good job and welcome to what I consider one of the best forums on the 'interweb'... and I belong to a lot!
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'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'04 Suzuki LTZ400
'16 RZR XP4 1000 Turbo
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