Oil Change *For the last time* - Page 3 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #21 of 144 (permalink) Old 03-20-2008, 10:16 AM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

My first post here, glad I found this place!

Heres the link to the sticky with the manual: https://www.raptorforum.com/index.php?topic=4.0

Also, to the guy who asked what hardware is needed - this is for my 2002 raptor which I think they are all the same:

You will need a 5mm allen wrench to take the skid plate bolts out.
You'll want a 3/8 inch drive ratchet with a 14 mm socket for the oil reservoir and a 17mm socket for the crankcase drain. Althought I found a 17mm open ended wrench was much easier for taking this drain plug out.
You might need an oil filter wrench to get the filter off if yours is really tight.
Your going to NEED a long skinny funnel to pour the oil into the reservior as its in a very invonvenient place. I would say the funnel should be at least 1 foot long, one of those funnels with a hose coming off the end would work perfect as you could feed the hose in there.
Oh and don't forget an oil pan =)

I also found that the reservior will OVERFLOW at exactly 2 quarts of oil if you do not start the engine after putting about a quart in.. you need to put about 1.25 quarts in and then replace the filler cap and let the engine run for 30 seconds or so to suck some of that oil up. I also found that if you do overflow the reservoir, and then try to start the engine without the filler cap on, it will shoot oil out like a geyser ... what I mess I made..


I also wanted to respond to the one persons comment about staying away from automotive oils - I just want to say this is pretty much an urban legend and there is no proof that automotive oils damage wet clutches due to "friction modifiers". This is widely debated over many forums but one thing you will never see is solid proof that running automotive oils will cause problems with wet clutches. This rumor is pretty common in the motorcycle world too but I have seen it to be false with my own vehicles, as have many others I've communicated with.
Just thought I'd throw that in there, if anyone was too scared by the hype to run regular (and much cheaper) oils - I choose not to pay $10 a quart for super duper ATV/motorcycle specific oils until I see some scientific proof about this rumor.
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post #22 of 144 (permalink) Old 03-21-2008, 09:55 AM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

I have responded to this in other posts, but I do know that Friction Modiferis destroy clutches, I did it myself about 6 years ago, I used a 20W50 oil with Friction Modifiers in our 93 Warrior, and in less then 5 minutes the clutch was slipping badly, we dismantled the clutch, could not see any thing wrong, scuffed the plates and reassembled, with no luck, we replaced the friction plates and reassembled the clutch and drove it again, with in a half hour it was slipping again. I had recently purchased my 01 raptor and was reading through the owners manually when I read the section on engine oils and realized my mistake. We ran the engine with new oil to flush the old oil out, changed it to Amsoil 10 40, ran it for about a half hour, dismantled the clutch and installed all new plates, changed the oil again and finally the clutch worked great.


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post #23 of 144 (permalink) Old 03-21-2008, 10:14 AM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

I read through the info from the other thread. Its all very interesting and I do now fear the friction modifiers - but the question still remains, which oils are high in friction modifiers that will damage wet clutches? They must be few and far between as I have run many different oils in many different wet clutch applications and never had any problems. I'm not doubting that these friction modifiers are dangerous, I'm now just looking for some info on how to tell an oil has a dangerous amount of them and which oils to avoid.
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post #24 of 144 (permalink) Old 03-21-2008, 10:21 AM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

I should add that this Warrior is extremely modified, on dyno runs it was putting out 28.5 wheel hp, a stock engine was tested at 16 hp, and the clutch is still basically stock with the exception of the springs being a lot stronger.


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post #25 of 144 (permalink) Old 03-21-2008, 10:25 AM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Quote:
Originally Posted by tittykaka7
I read through the info from the other thread. Its all very interesting and I do now fear the friction modifiers - but the question still remains, which oils are high in friction modifiers that will damage wet clutches? They must be few and far between as I have run many different oils in many different wet clutch applications and never had any problems. I'm not doubting that these friction modifiers are dangerous, I'm now just looking for some info on how to tell an oil has a dangerous amount of them and which oils to avoid.
All I can suggest is to use oil blended specially for the application concerned, I realize that oil is expensive and so are the repairs that are caused by using incorrect oil. I simply just pay the buck for proper oil, the career I am in has taught me to respect this, since I see lots of variance from this moto and the consumer usually pays in the end ten times over, in your case you seem to be using quality oil otherwise I am sure you would have experienced what I have with my Warrior's clutch.


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post #26 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 07:20 PM
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Uh, first post here.

I couldn't find a "what's he best kind of oil" thread to jump on, so I suppose this is second best.

I've been using Castrol dinosaur oil in every bike I've owned since the early 70's. Not the synthetic stuff, just the off the shelf white bottle. Never had a clutch problem yet, so I suppose I'll continue to use it.

Great website- I got my '02 660 3 days ago, and I was looking for just such a place so I could read up a bit before diving in. Need to change oil & filter, then check the PBL, then the reverse gear fix... hadn't heard of it until now, so it may or mayu not apply to me, and may or may not have already been done.



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post #27 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 07:31 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Most people on here use Rotella, Amsoil, or just Yamalube. If your Castrol oil has any Energy Conserving or API on it, it will eventually glaze your clutches. I dont know what your old bikes are, but the Raptor uses the same oil in the motor as it does in the clutch(yes I bet you knew this, not calling you a retard) and any type of friction modifiers will ruin the clutches.

Remember when you remove Parking Brake sensor to fill the end of the plug with some silicone or something.

Good Luck

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post #28 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-07-2008, 06:08 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Huh? Did you say something?? Oh, are you talking to me?


Sorry, I got lost watching your avatar.

My last bike was a Kawasaki ZRX1100, and I traded it for the Raptor. It has 48,000 miles on it.

Thanks for the tip on the sensor, I hadn't yet deciphered if I had to jumper it or plug it up.


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post #29 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-11-2008, 09:18 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited660
If your Castrol oil has any Energy Conserving or API on it, it will eventually glaze your clutches. .... and any type of friction modifiers will ruin the clutches.
I have to disagree with this - it was only the old oils, 6,7 years ago and older, that had the wrong kind of molybdenums (friction modifiers) in them that were ruining friction plates. Modern synths all have a "wet clutch" safe friction modifier in them.
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post #30 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-12-2008, 04:54 PM
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Re: Oil Change *For the last time*

Quote:
Originally Posted by tittykaka7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited660
If your Castrol oil has any Energy Conserving or API on it, it will eventually glaze your clutches. .... and any type of friction modifiers will ruin the clutches.
I have to disagree with this - it was only the old oils, 6,7 years ago and older, that had the wrong kind of molybdenums (friction modifiers) in them that were ruining friction plates. Modern synths all have a "wet clutch" safe friction modifier in them.
Believe what you want.

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