Proper Break in procedures - Page 3 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-13-2012, 08:34 AM
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How many times should you run hard though the gears when breaking in on the road I did not see it on that post
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-23-2012, 11:46 AM
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I have been working on bikes for more than 10 years now and he is absolutly correct and to answer your question (foot) the same gos for street as in dirt or (track as he said it in the post) The only real difference is when your dyno breaking it in. I've almost specialized i two stroke bike and quads.This has been my break in process for years and none of my projects have breaken during this process and all of my customers are running hard and strong. An old engine builder taught me that a long time ago,I was building drag race cars.He asked to to look and see if the top feul drag guys were breaking in there motors before there next run. Hellllllll no, they put that sucker together in a matter of 1 1\2 hours, push it ot the line and run the wheels off that puppy. After that, I always broke it in by running it like i stole it. With some caution of course.

Raptor 720 = banshee killer
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-23-2012, 11:57 AM
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eye opener

Quote:
Originally Posted by willykiller View Post
The same way as the link says to breakin the engine........
I just stumbled on to your website and I must say alot of the thing you say in the posts about porting make so much sense that its scary. I've been building race cars and two stroke bikes for years and have never heard of this concept.I have just recently put the head of my 660 raptor in the shop to get the ports over sized,then I read this and now I wanna run down there and rescue my head but I will let him finish his job then I will go behind him and try your way. I've tried so many ways of getting more power out my builds without making them delicate but,the way hte I was taught was to go bigger. In doing so that made the engine thinner and more delicate. Your way adds strenght and keeps the overal integrity of the meatl in take, therefore kepping it strong and that way it will last longer. Man I wish I had known this info sooner,I'm taking this concept to the local track. pbir here i come!

Raptor 720 = banshee killer
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 11:07 AM
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I know this is an older post, but I have a question about the build/break in process. When you all are putting the top end together do u lube the cylinder, piston side and rings with engine oil. I had a local motorcycle engine builder say DEF NOT. he said after cleaning and right before assembly he uses a clean rag and wipes the cylinder with WD40.

So I understand this post you are saying I should:
1. Warm the engine up (how long for 2006 Raptor 350)
2. After warm up ride it hard
a. Run through 2nd 3rd and 4th with some power
b. Let off the gas in different gears and let the engine slow the bike down
c. Repeat #2 for at least an hour.
3. Change oil after break in ride.

Is that correct?
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dconnest View Post
I know this is an older post, but I have a question about the build/break in process. When you all are putting the top end together do u lube the cylinder, piston side and rings with engine oil. I had a local motorcycle engine builder say DEF NOT. he said after cleaning and right before assembly he uses a clean rag and wipes the cylinder with WD40.

So I understand this post you are saying I should:
1. Warm the engine up (how long for 2006 Raptor 350)
2. After warm up ride it hard
a. Run through 2nd 3rd and 4th with some power
b. Let off the gas in different gears and let the engine slow the bike down
c. Repeat #2 for at least an hour.
3. Change oil after break in ride.

Is that correct?
After honing, wash the cylinder with Dawn soap and water and a good brush till a white paper towel wipes clean. Dry with a heat gun or hair drier. Wipe the cylinder with oil used for the motor. WD40 may not be compatible with all oils. Lube the rod at the crank, wrist pin, rings and piston with the same oil. Some builders think a dry cylinder and rings will seat faster, but I don't like that idea. Start the new motor and check for leaks and shut down ASAP. Let cool down and re-torque the head bolts and check other mounts, cases, etc. Next time it's fired up, be ready to ride aggressively, but don't lug it. Follow the link on the first post of this thread, I've done it for years with 2 and 4 stroke motors. AKA, ride it like you stole it. I always recommend a magnetic drain plug.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dconnest View Post
I know this is an older post, but I have a question about the build/break in process. When you all are putting the top end together do u lube the cylinder, piston side and rings with engine oil. I had a local motorcycle engine builder say DEF NOT. he said after cleaning and right before assembly he uses a clean rag and wipes the cylinder with WD40.

So I understand this post you are saying I should:
1. Warm the engine up (how long for 2006 Raptor 350)
2. After warm up ride it hard
a. Run through 2nd 3rd and 4th with some power
b. Let off the gas in different gears and let the engine slow the bike down
c. Repeat #2 for at least an hour.
3. Change oil after break in ride.

Is that correct?
After honing, wash the cylinder with Dawn soap and water and a good brush till a white paper towel wipes clean. Dry with a heat gun or hair drier. Wipe the cylinder with oil used for the motor. WD40 may not be compatible with all oils. Lube the rod at the crank, wrist pin, rings and piston with the same oil. Some builders think a dry cylinder and rings will seat faster, but I don't like that idea. Start the new motor and check for leaks and shut down ASAP. Let cool down and re-torque the head bolts and check other mounts, cases, etc. Next time it's fired up, be ready to ride aggressively, but don't lug it. Follow the link on the first post of this thread, I've done it for years with 2 and 4 stroke motors. AKA, ride it like you stole it. I always recommend a magnetic drain plug.

Ride it like you stole it...........What if when you steal a bike,, you like to gingerly ride it through the country side and take in the scenery? Lol

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07 700RSE
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08 700RSE1 GYTR
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09 700R Under big build construction, to much to list
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Last edited by Raptor Nation; 03-07-2018 at 03:46 PM.
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 04:00 PM
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Like the owner or police are chasing you down a trail. Accelerate in the straights, slow down for the corners. Break in is pretty much done in 15 - 20 min of run time. That's run time, not ride time. Like on a dyno or in a race car.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Like the owner or police are chasing you down a trail. Accelerate in the straights, slow down for the corners. Break in is pretty much done in 15 - 20 min of run time. That's run time, not ride time. Like on a dyno or in a race car.

That makes more since now. Lol. I'm just messing with ya!

06 700
06 700RSE 50th anniversary
07 700RSE
08 700R set up for XC, to much to list
08 700RSE1 GYTR
08 700RSE1 GYTR
08 700RSE2 GYTR
09 700RSE /dealer edition 1 of 1
09 700R Under big build construction, to much to list
09 700R
09 700R
11 700R
13 700RSE
16 700RSE 60th anniversary stock
16 700RSE 60th anniversary, to much to list
14 YFZ450RSE
08 TRX 700XX
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptor Nation View Post
That makes more since now. Lol. I'm just messing with ya!
It just rolls right off, lol. I've messed with you guys for years, haha.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptor Nation View Post
That makes more since now. Lol. I'm just messing with ya!
It just rolls right off, lol. I've messed with you guys for years, haha.
I forgot to give you props on the comment about an old crank and who's ganna do my dishes now! That was a good one! Lol
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06 700
06 700RSE 50th anniversary
07 700RSE
08 700R set up for XC, to much to list
08 700RSE1 GYTR
08 700RSE1 GYTR
08 700RSE2 GYTR
09 700RSE /dealer edition 1 of 1
09 700R Under big build construction, to much to list
09 700R
09 700R
11 700R
13 700RSE
16 700RSE 60th anniversary stock
16 700RSE 60th anniversary, to much to list
14 YFZ450RSE
08 TRX 700XX
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