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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2009, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
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Starting trouble...

Hey all,

Noobie around here... have done a bit of digging already and some possible answers have cropped up but thought I'd throw it out for discussion.

Recently (2 days ago ) purchased a 2003 Raptor 660.... cracking quad!

The starter button (I suspect) isn't working. To start it I've to run ignition on and cross the two bolts on the battery and it fires up fine. Naturally I'd like to get it sorted so its firing up off switch.

Symptoms... knock ignition on and knock it into neutral, neutral light comes on fine. Engine temp light on constant, even from cold, press starter button & nothing. The one thing I've noticed is that there is ZERO travel on the starter button. I'd assume this is the problem? What I'm suspecting is spring in button is gone and previous owner has disconnected to stop it continuously cranking? When starting and running the engine temp light stays on.

Was a little tricky getting it into neutral but thanks to biking for a few years diagnosed it as a poorly adjusted clutch. Bite point was too close to full press on clutch lever. Adjusted slightly and pops into neutral fine.

Cheers guys... all views and insights greatly appreciated. Any ideas how much OEM bar controls are?

Looking forward to spending quite a bit of my life on here
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2009, 07:24 AM
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Well fix the starter button first and report back,sounds like you already found some of your problems, as far as the temp light being on all the time, make sure it is the temp light, and not the reverse indicator in the wrong hole. Unless , as you said, the start button is on full time and the wire is disconnected the to the starter relay.........


686 three plugger with HV porting, 39 FCRS, Curtis Sparks exhaust, Dyna FS CDI
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2009, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Well fix the starter button first and report back,sounds like you already found some of your problems, as far as the temp light being on all the time, make sure it is the temp light, and not the reverse indicator in the wrong hole. Unless , as you said, the start button is on full time and the wire is disconnected the to the starter relay.........
Cheers for the response... I presume there is typically a little bit of travel in the start switch, circa a couple of mm? Can you confirm light behaviour on startup? i.e. in neutral, ignition on, not started.... presume just neutral light on? (assuming you're in neutral of course)

On startup... temp light come on? while starting and then off again once started?

I need to have a look at the reverse light also. Even in reverse its not coming on. Off full time.... I reckon it just needs a little bit of TLC and sorting out. Found the service & owners manual on here too... great sticky!
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2009, 11:06 AM
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Temperature light is supposed to come on when the start button is pushed... fix the button and measure continuity from the button back to the starter solenoid - blue/black stripe wire. I'm guessing, as Willy has, that the previous owner disconnected the blue/black wire at or going to the relay, and the switch is on full time, keeping the temp light on.

Reverse light - check to see whether the reverse wire (green/white stripe) has been grounded. Normally it connects to the reverse switch (just below the output sprocket). Many ground it (disconnected from the switch or not) to eliminate a poor connection at the switch, which causes an annoying reverse RPM limiter to come on when NOT in reverse. Grounding this wire also disables the reverse light.

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'04 Suzuki LTZ400
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Last edited by QuadManiac; 10-19-2009 at 11:09 AM.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2009, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by QuadManiac View Post
Temperature light is supposed to come on when the start button is pushed... fix the button and measure continuity from the button back to the starter solenoid - blue/black stripe wire. I'm guessing, as Willy has, that the previous owner disconnected the blue/black wire at or going to the relay, and the switch is on full time, keeping the temp light on.

Reverse light - check to see whether the reverse wire (green/white stripe) has been grounded. Normally it connects to the reverse switch (just below the output sprocket). Many disconnect and ground it to eliminate a poor connection at the switch, which causes an annoying reverse RPM limiter to come on when NOT in reverse. Grounding this wire also disables the reverse light.
Great, thanks for the super detailed responses guys. I'll pick up a new switch, get it replaced and check that wire and see if we can get to the bottom of the issues. Great forum B.T.W..... been digging back through many of the threads.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2009, 01:26 PM
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You can do most of the testing prior to getting a new switch... all it does is short the blue/black stripe wire at the relay to ground when pushed... you can verify whether the wire at the relay is at ground or not, and assuming not, use a jumper wire to ground it to verify proper starting operation.

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-19-2009, 03:52 PM
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theres a few nrand new OEM switches on ebay at the moment for 100$..

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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theres a few nrand new OEM switches on ebay at the moment for 100$..
Cheers... I ended up getting a second hand one off a nice gentleman here who was breaking a couple of raptors. Arrived yesterday. Have new grab bar, switch, oil, bushings, spark plug etc. to go into it next time I'm down at my bro's. Hopefully we can get it running spot on again. A little bit annoying having to start it by lifting the seat every time. Not enjoyable when you're up to your knees in a bog
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-09-2009, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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OK guys... have an update on this. Myself and my bro spent a bit of time working on my quad yesterday. Got the new upper A arm bushing replaced, new grab bar on, new switch on and a couple of other bits and pieces.

Regarding the switch. Solved our temperature light issue.... now only comes on when I press the button which is normal operation. However no joy in getting it operational yet. It appears that tinkering has been done before. All the wires going back under the seat to the battery are taped up and looks possibly non standard. Also thinking the solenoid might be faulty also.... my bro is an electrician... so he was looking at that end... he's fairly mechanically minded also.

Best course of action now I assume is tracing the blue & black stripe wire back to the solenoid & ensure no breaks etc.? was a bit worried to see the wires taped and looking very DIY'ish. Don't suppose anyone can pop up a photo of how it should look stock, under the seat/solenoid etc.? I've a feeling someone went DIY bananas rather than just replacing the switch before. Cheers.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-09-2009, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenm View Post
OK guys... have an update on this. Myself and my bro spent a bit of time working on my quad yesterday. Got the new upper A arm bushing replaced, new grab bar on, new switch on and a couple of other bits and pieces.

Regarding the switch. Solved our temperature light issue.... now only comes on when I press the button which is normal operation. However no joy in getting it operational yet. It appears that tinkering has been done before. All the wires going back under the seat to the battery are taped up and looks possibly non standard. Also thinking the solenoid might be faulty also.... my bro is an electrician... so he was looking at that end... he's fairly mechanically minded also.

Best course of action now I assume is tracing the blue & black stripe wire back to the solenoid & ensure no breaks etc.? was a bit worried to see the wires taped and looking very DIY'ish. Don't suppose anyone can pop up a photo of how it should look stock, under the seat/solenoid etc.? I've a feeling someone went DIY bananas rather than just replacing the switch before. Cheers.

There is a wiring schematic in the service manual on this site, check it out for your wiring concerns.......


686 three plugger with HV porting, 39 FCRS, Curtis Sparks exhaust, Dyna FS CDI
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