Most common Raptor 660 problems explained (Read this before posting your problems) - Page 3 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #21 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 02:44 PM
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Question Oil change?

OK, I'm sure everyone will have this question when they first get a Raptor - how do you drain the oil? I opened the drain plug by the shifter shaft, oil came out, all should be good, right? But, the oil tank still has dirty oil in it, and the dipstick indicates full. How do i drain the oil tank without taking it off and dumping it, which will probably be my solution if I can't figure it out soon?

Thanks!
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post #22 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkunz View Post
OK, I'm sure everyone will have this question when they first get a Raptor - how do you drain the oil? I opened the drain plug by the shifter shaft, oil came out, all should be good, right? But, the oil tank still has dirty oil in it, and the dipstick indicates full. How do i drain the oil tank without taking it off and dumping it, which will probably be my solution if I can't figure it out soon?

Thanks!
14mm plug under the tank, dead center, look under it, and be cautious, the tank is thin and prone to cracking in that area, use a socket with an extension and support the extension with your other hand when pulling on the ratchet..............


686 three plugger with HV porting, 39 FCRS, Curtis Sparks exhaust, Dyna FS CDI
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post #23 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-24-2010, 07:29 PM
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Read the sticky on oil changes.

Mike

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post #24 of 98 (permalink) Old 03-12-2010, 02:03 AM
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hey guys ive got a problem ive read the common issuses with the raptor 660's my bike wont start. ive disassembled the carb n cleaned it to the point i would eat off it lol. ive put new spark plug in it. ive removed the tank n dumped it filled with new gas. changed the oil. clean fuel line clean the all the vacuum lines cleaned out the inline tubes cleaned. ive clean everything i could think of that would prevent fuel delivery or air delivery. checked for spark its arcing blue/white arc. so its getting good spark brand new battery just bought it. from the closest parts shop for Atv's. so im stumped on what else to look for i dont know much about ATV's but i know the basic's n im not mechanically inclined so id rather rip it apart myself to fix it then take it to the shop cuz they charge $300 just to find whats wrong n then charge to fix n id rather not spend $1000 for some1 else to fix it if i can do it myself n know how to fix it if it happens again later on down the road.

its an 2004 660
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post #25 of 98 (permalink) Old 03-12-2010, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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This one may take a bit of back n forth, so instead of hijacking the sticky, why don't you copy and paste your post into a new one in the General 660 Discussion section?

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'04 Suzuki LTZ400
'16 RZR XP4 1000 Turbo
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post #26 of 98 (permalink) Old 03-12-2010, 03:24 AM
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k will do
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post #27 of 98 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 07:18 PM
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3) MY BIKE WON’T START – THE STARTER CRANKS THE ENGINE OVER, I SMELL GAS, BUT IT JUST WON’T START.
or - it runs, but badly, especially at certain throttle positions.

1st (if it won't start at all) check for spark – pull the spark plug and plug it back into the spark plug boot. If you have a spare spark plug, leave the plug in the engine and use your spare for this. Ground the metal body of the plug to a clean spot on the engine. Crank the starter and look for good, strong (preferably blue/white), CONSISTENT spark across the plug gap.

If there is NO spark:
Stator – a common 660 problem is an internal short in the stator windings – between the windings used to charge the battery and the winding used to generate high voltage (HV) for the ignition circuits.

To test for this failure, unplug the rectifier/regulator and try again. Unplugging the rec/reg frees this common short that is pulling HV down and it now allows the ignition voltage to be generated – spark returns. If this works, your stator needs to be replaced. A good article on stator replacement is in the forum here: https://www.raptorforum.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=30801

If you do have success by unplugging the rec/reg, you can leave it unplugged indefinitely with no concerns about damage to the bike…. But your battery will not be charged. Ride all you want, don’t use your lights and limit the number of shutdowns/restarts as this will discharge the battery quickly. You can charge the battery regularly with a charger, and keep jumper cables with you just in case.

If there IS spark:
Carburetors - The biggest cause of no start, poor start, poor running (as long as you haven't made any recent mods) is dirty carburetors. The 660, because it has 2 carbs, uses smaller than normal jets, for an engine of this size. Because the jet’s passages are so small, they are very prone to being plugged up by solids left behind when gasoline evaporates from the float bowls. The pilot jets (responsible for idle) are especially prone to plugging. Sometimes, leaving the bike unridden with the petcock on for just a few weeks will cause plugging of a pilot jet. To prevent this, close the petcock and let the engine idle till it dies, whenever you're going to let the bike sit for more than a few days. This nearly empties the float bowls and will eliminate any evaporated solids from gumming up the jets.

Note: If you are trying to tweak your mixture after having made mods, look at the link referenced below, and others in this forum.

If no start: Spray some starting fluid into the carb intakes and quickly try to start it. If it catches fire and tries to run, you are probably not getting fuel into the engine due to carb issues (assuming fuel is reaching the carbs).

If you have popping on decal, poor response when you first press down on the throttle, which recovers quickly, a slow return to idle when you've released the throttle, or just plain sloppy idle, it may well be clogged or partially clogged pilot jets. You can try turning out (CCW) the pilot screws (front, bottom of the carbs, screwhead up inside small cylindrical bore) about 1/4 turn at a time. First, turn them clockwise while counting turns until you bottom out... return CCW to this count - their original positon. Start experimenting from there, 1/4 turn or so at a time, keeping count. If you have to turn any further than 3 1/2 - 4 or so turns from bottomed out and you still haven't got the performance you want, then either your pilot jets are plugged or they need to go larger.

The only solution to these problems (if pilot screw adjustment didn't work) is to dismantle and thoroughly clean the carbs, the jets, needles, choke plunger, float valves and all passages. I prefer to use spray carb cleaner, toothbrush, and thin copper wire (a strand or several stolen from a piece of speaker wire). Make sure that all passages in the carb body have been sprayed until you can see the spray exiting from another passage (they all end up somewhere else), and then blow clean with compressed air.

Each jet should be inspected, sprayed with cleaner, especially through their small diameter passages, rodded out with the copper wire, then sprayed again and blown clear with air. When done, you should be able to see an nice, circular shaft of light coming through the jet’s passage. If it’s not symmetric, clean some more.

A good discussion on carbs (removing, disassembling, cleaning, jetting, etc.) is in the forum here: https://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20

That's all I have time for, for now. I will be adding, as I have more time, or as you all contribute good ideas!

CONTINUED IN PART 3 BELOW
i have an '03 raptor that i put an '04 motor in. it rode it for 2 minutes,it jumped into rev. i finally got started back up, rode it for 5 min cut off. i tried to start it today with starting fluid all it does is make these insane popping noises! i dont have a clue!
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post #28 of 98 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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1) Please start this as a post in the regular forum - many more will see it there, and this is supposed to be a reference 'sticky'.

2) Check that the carbs are tightly mounted on the intake manifold boots and the clamps are tight.

3) possible that cam chain has slipped.

'01 660 Raptor, Burgard +2+1 arms, YFZ Shocks, LSR anti-vibe, CTR pipe, jetted, K&N
'01 Polaris Scrambler 400, K&N
'02 Honda 400ex, Big Gun pipe, jetted, K&N, Lonestar +2 A-arms, Lonestar anti-vibe
'04 Suzuki LTZ400
'16 RZR XP4 1000 Turbo

Last edited by QuadManiac; 03-23-2010 at 08:55 PM.
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post #29 of 98 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 01:39 PM
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post #1, question #2 was the answer to all my problems, the PB limiter was engaged, took the carburetors apart many times, and the quad still did the same. After I read this post, went and checked the PB limiter switch on the handle and noticed it was not where it is supposed to be. My issue was that the parking brake cable was not adjusted right, so when I disengaged the PB the part that activates the limiter switch stayed in the same place.

thanks.
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post #30 of 98 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 04:39 PM
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ummm having problem number 4 right now but cant see the anwser in this post anywhere...little help?
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