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Most common Raptor 660 problems explained (Read this before posting your problems)

345K views 99 replies 52 participants last post by  QuadManiac 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This is just a start. I aim to have one post in which the most common problems that 660 owners face will be described and resolved - to perhaps eliminate some of the constant repeats we get every day.

I’ll add to this as I have time and as readers contribute pertinent information. I will spread this across a couple of posts because the system only allows 10,000 characters per post, and I'm already way past that.

Below are, IMO, the most common problems that 660 owners have, based upon the number of times they show up on this and other forums. I’ve tried to give a concise description of the problem and a detailed explanation of the fix. If anyone has anything to add, please add a post. If it is a noticeable improvement over mine, I’ll be glad to edit it into this, the 1st set of commands.

Also, if anyone has pictures related to any of these subjects, please post them below, and if applicable, I’ll edit them into these 1st few posts.

You are welcome to add your opinions on common problems and solutions here if I've overlooked anything.


Please note that there is new information added to #3 - "My Bike Won't Start" regarding the 'unplug rectifier/regulator to get the spark back' problem... see "NEW EDIT AS OF 3/27/2011" in Post #2

QM

Here is whats in here so far, an Index, if you will -
1)MY STARTER MOTOR TURNS, BUT IT DOESN’T TURN THE ENGINE OVER
2) MY ENGINE IDLES GREAT, BUT IT SPITS AND SPUTTERS WHEN I JUST BARELY PRESS ON THE THROTTLE
3) MY BIKE WON’T START – THE STARTER CRANKS THE ENGINE OVER, AND I SMELL GAS, BUT IT JUST WON’T START

And here's what I plan on adding shortly:
4) NOTHING HAPPENS (OR I JUST HEAR A CLICK OR BUZZ) WHEN I PRESS THE START BUTTON
5) I HEAR A CLUNKING NOISE FROM MY TRANSMISSION IN ONE OR MORE GEARS

Suggestions for more?


Ok, here we go -

MOST COMMON PROBLEMS AND THEIR SOLUTIONS:

1) MY STARTER MOTOR TURNS, BUT IT DOESN’T TURN THE ENGINE OVER

Starter one-way bearing – the 660 has a systemic problem with this component; Yamaha had a bad design. Symptoms include a grinding noise while starting and/or the starter turns, but sometimes the engine doesn’t – it may take several tries, or it may not work.

Once the one-way begins to fail, it starts dumping small pieces of metal into the oil sump. You don’t want these pieces ending up where they shouldn’t (like in your tranny gears), so it’s a good idea to replace the one-way at the first evidence of a problem.

We recommend you not buy an OEM Yamaha one-way; it will repeat the failure later. The consensus here is that the L&A or Extreme aftermarket one-ways are a much more robust design and are likely to last much longer – for most, the life of your quad.

Also necessary, most of the time, is the replacement of the 52-tooth gear, which has a smooth bearing face that the one-way engages. As the one-way fails, it usually chews up this bearing face on the bag. If you don’t replace the gear, this scarred face will also damage the clutch sprags on the new one-way bearing… Not what you want. If the bearing look on your 52T gear is not as smooth as silk, replace it.

A website called raptortranny.com had an excellent treatise with pictures – walking you through the replacement process step by step. Unfortunately, they no longer exist. I have posted an archive of those pages in a sticky called “How to replace the starter one-way bearing (From Raptortranny)” in the 660 General Discussion area of this forum; the link is - How to replace the starter one-way bearing (From...


2) MY ENGINE IDLES GREAT, BUT IT SPITS AND SPUTTERS WHEN I JUST BARELY PRESS ON THE THROTTLE

RPM limiters - Most 660s have three RPM limiters – Max RPM (which will not be dealt with here), Reverse RPM and Parking Brake (PB) RPM limiters. If either the reverse or the PB electrical circuits fail, the CDI will invoke these limiters, and the engine will cough, spit, backfire, and even die sometimes when the throttle is just barely applied.

Reverse limiter – The engine has a reverse switch, a small, circular 1-pin switch in the engine case just under the output sprocket. The switch button, which extends into the case, is depressed by the reverse gear moving into its operating position. This switch is usually closed (shorted to ground) EXCEPT when the bike is in reverse. A wire, GREEN with WHITE STRIPE, leads from this switch up to the CDI.

The CDI (computer) looks at the reverse switch wire, and if it is at the ground, it assumes all is normal. If, however, the CDI sees that the reverse switch wire is NOT at the bottom, it takes the bike in reverse and turns on the RPM limiter and the Reverse indicator light. Note: Early ‘01s do not have this limiter; late 01’s do. If you have it, you would know it from limiting RPMs when in reverse.

Failure of the switch, unplugging the reverse switch wire, dirt or corrosion at the wire’s connection to the control, or if the wire is broken somewhere between the button and the CDI will all fool the CDI into thinking the bike’s in reverse and turning on the RPM limiter AND the light.

If your light blinks or flickers randomly (NOT at a fixed on/off rate) or is on all the time (assuming the bulb works), this is likely your problem. Find the GREEN with WHITE STRIPE wire’s connection to the switch, unplug and clean all the connecting contacts, tighten the spring clamp in the connector and re-connect.

An option is to ground the GREEN with WHITE STRIPE wire to a clean spot on the frame or the battery negative terminal. This eliminates the possibility (assuming the wire is intact back to the CDI) of this problem occurring again, BUT it also disables the reverse light. I have a sticky in the ‘660 Modifications’ section on how to lose the reverse limiter but keep the light. Look at it if you wish. It's here: Lose your reverse limiter but keep the reverse light -...

Another possible cause of this issue (reverse limiter) is if the GREEN with WHITE STRIPE wire has broken along its path to the CDI. Look carefully at the wires around the CDI and in the battery box to detect any possible damage. The reverse light should be on in this case (assuming the bulb and wiring to the bulb are ok).


Parking Brake limiter – The 660 has a switch up on the clutch perch to sense when the parking brake has been engaged. (I believe that some or all ‘05s do not have this). When the parking brake is on, the switch is engaged (closed) and shorts two wires together – GREEN with YELLOW STRIPE and BLACK. These wires come from the harness to a connector and switch. The black wire is ground. The CDI looks at the GREEN with YELLOW STRIPE wire, and if it senses it at the bottom, it turns on the RPM limiter. If you are feeling the symptoms described, spitting, sputtering, etc., but it can not be explained by the reverse switch issues mentioned above, it may be the PB switch.

Simply unplug the PB switch connector to eliminate this as a possible cause of your problem. The connecter is white, has two pins, have BLACK and BLACK wires coming in one side and GREEN with YELLOW STRIPE and BLACK wires coming in the other side. The connector is hidden behind the left headlight near the radiator. A sticky with some pictures regarding the PB switch and its removal is here in the forum: How To: Remove PB Sensor

If allowed entry to this unplugged connector, water and dirt can short across the pins and cause the limiter to come on again. To prevent this, seal the connector (the one with the GREEN with YELLOW STRIPE wire that leads to the harness) with silicone caulk or equivalent to keep out all foreign debris.
Another possible cause of this issue is if the GREEN with YELLOW STRIPE wire has chafed and is shorting to the ground somewhere along its path to the CDI. Look carefully at the wires around the CDI and in the battery box to detect any possible damage.


CONTINUED IN PART 2 BELOW
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Part 2

3) MY BIKE WON’T START – THE STARTER CRANKS THE ENGINE OVER, I SMELL GAS, BUT IT JUST WON’T START.
or - it runs, but badly, especially at certain throttle positions.

1st (if it won't start at all) check for spark – pull the spark plug and plug it back into the spark plug boot. If you have a spare spark plug, leave the plug in the engine and use your spare for this. Ground the metal body of the plug to a clean spot on the engine. Crank the starter and look for good, strong (preferably blue/white), CONSISTENT spark across the plug gap.

If there is NO spark:
Stator – a common 660 problem is an internal short in the stator windings – between the windings used to charge the battery and the another winding that leads to the CDI.

To test for this failure, unplug the rectifier/regulator and try again. Unplugging the rec/reg frees this common short that is pulling CDI signal and it now allows the ignition voltage to be generated – spark returns. If this works, your stator needs to be replaced (SEE NEW EDIT, 2nd PARAGRAPH BELOW FOR A POSSIBLE SOLUTION WITHOUT REPLACING THE STATOR). A good article on stator replacement is in the forum here: http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30801

If you do have success by unplugging the rec/reg, you can leave it unplugged indefinitely with no concerns about damage to the bike…. But your battery will not be charged. Ride all you want, don’t use your lights and limit the number of shutdowns/restarts as this will discharge the battery quickly. You can charge the battery regularly with a charger, and keep jumper cables with you just in case.

4/23/2012 - Here'a a great video showing the loss of spark problem, and the cut red wire solution, put together by our friend Banshee2Raptor - http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90882

NEW EDIT AS OF 3/27/2011:

Thanks to feedback from several members and verification work done today by CenCalRacing (thanks to all of you)there is a possible solution to this problem WITHOUT having to replace the stator:

If unplugging the rec/reg DOES return spark to your engine, plug it back in and try cutting the red wire that comes from the stator (FROM THE STATOR, out of the side cover - NOT FROM THE REGULATOR). This red wire is from the stator's rotation direction winding and has proven to be not necessary; I believe it is legacy from kick start versions of this engine where it would prevent the engine from accidentally starting/running in backwards rotation.

If the short is in this winding, cutting the red wire appears to eliminate the short and return spark, without any other issues - allowing you to plug the rec/reg back in and return to full bike operation: You get spark and the battery charges correctly - all is good! This has now been verified several times by forum members with the 'unplug rec/reg to get spark' problem. BONUS: It has been reported and now verified that this also increases the reverse (and perhaps parking brake) RPM limiter's RPM limit by about double, so for those times when you just couldn't get enough reverse power, this may fix that issue.

If cutting this wire DOES return you to operation, you are good to go... if it does not, try cutting the white/blue stripe wire, also coming from the stator - this is the other side of the same stator winding. If you now have spark, great... if not, then it's stator replacement time (or leave the rec/reg unplugged as described above).

ALSO, I ask you a favor: If you do this mod, please add a post at the end of this sticky's thread telling us about your results - success, failure, RPM limit changes in reverse and/or parking brake, etc.

END EDIT 3/27/2011

If there IS spark:
Carburetors - The biggest cause of no start, poor start, poor running (as long as you haven't made any recent mods) is dirty carburetors. The 660, because it has 2 carbs, uses smaller than normal jets, for an engine of this size. Because the jet’s passages are so small, they are very prone to being plugged up by solids left behind when gasoline evaporates from the float bowls. The pilot jets (responsible for idle) are especially prone to plugging. Sometimes, leaving the bike unridden with the petcock on for just a few weeks will cause plugging of a pilot jet. To prevent this, close the petcock and let the engine idle till it dies, whenever you're going to let the bike sit for more than a few days. This nearly empties the float bowls and will eliminate any evaporated solids from gumming up the jets.

Note: If you are trying to tweak your mixture after having made mods, look at the link referenced below, and others in this forum.

If no start: Spray some starting fluid into the carb intakes and quickly try to start it. If it catches fire and tries to run, you are probably not getting fuel into the engine due to carb issues (assuming fuel is reaching the carbs).

If you have popping on decal, poor response when you first press down on the throttle, which recovers quickly, a slow return to idle when you've released the throttle, or just plain sloppy idle, it may well be clogged or partially clogged pilot jets. You can try turning out (CCW) the pilot screws (front, bottom of the carbs, screwhead up inside small cylindrical bore) about 1/4 turn at a time. First, turn them clockwise while counting turns until you bottom out... return CCW to this count - their original positon. Start experimenting from there, 1/4 turn or so at a time, keeping count. If you have to turn any further than 3 1/2 - 4 or so turns from bottomed out and you still haven't got the performance you want, then either your pilot jets are plugged or they need to go larger.

The only solution to these problems (if pilot screw adjustment didn't work) is to dismantle and thoroughly clean the carbs, the jets, needles, choke plunger, float valves and all passages. I prefer to use spray carb cleaner, toothbrush, and thin copper wire (a strand or several stolen from a piece of speaker wire). Make sure that all passages in the carb body have been sprayed until you can see the spray exiting from another passage (they all end up somewhere else), and then blow clean with compressed air.

Each jet should be inspected, sprayed with cleaner, especially through their small diameter passages, rodded out with the copper wire, then sprayed again and blown clear with air. When done, you should be able to see an nice, circular shaft of light coming through the jet’s passage. If it’s not symmetric, clean some more.

A good discussion on carbs (removing, disassembling, cleaning, jetting, etc.) is in the forum here: http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20

That's all I have time for, for now. I will be adding, as I have more time, or as you all contribute good ideas!

CONTINUED IN PART 3 BELOW
 
#27 ·
3) MY BIKE WON’T START – THE STARTER CRANKS THE ENGINE OVER, I SMELL GAS, BUT IT JUST WON’T START.
or - it runs, but badly, especially at certain throttle positions.

1st (if it won't start at all) check for spark – pull the spark plug and plug it back into the spark plug boot. If you have a spare spark plug, leave the plug in the engine and use your spare for this. Ground the metal body of the plug to a clean spot on the engine. Crank the starter and look for good, strong (preferably blue/white), CONSISTENT spark across the plug gap.

If there is NO spark:
Stator – a common 660 problem is an internal short in the stator windings – between the windings used to charge the battery and the winding used to generate high voltage (HV) for the ignition circuits.

To test for this failure, unplug the rectifier/regulator and try again. Unplugging the rec/reg frees this common short that is pulling HV down and it now allows the ignition voltage to be generated – spark returns. If this works, your stator needs to be replaced. A good article on stator replacement is in the forum here: http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30801

If you do have success by unplugging the rec/reg, you can leave it unplugged indefinitely with no concerns about damage to the bike…. But your battery will not be charged. Ride all you want, don’t use your lights and limit the number of shutdowns/restarts as this will discharge the battery quickly. You can charge the battery regularly with a charger, and keep jumper cables with you just in case.

If there IS spark:
Carburetors - The biggest cause of no start, poor start, poor running (as long as you haven't made any recent mods) is dirty carburetors. The 660, because it has 2 carbs, uses smaller than normal jets, for an engine of this size. Because the jet’s passages are so small, they are very prone to being plugged up by solids left behind when gasoline evaporates from the float bowls. The pilot jets (responsible for idle) are especially prone to plugging. Sometimes, leaving the bike unridden with the petcock on for just a few weeks will cause plugging of a pilot jet. To prevent this, close the petcock and let the engine idle till it dies, whenever you're going to let the bike sit for more than a few days. This nearly empties the float bowls and will eliminate any evaporated solids from gumming up the jets.

Note: If you are trying to tweak your mixture after having made mods, look at the link referenced below, and others in this forum.

If no start: Spray some starting fluid into the carb intakes and quickly try to start it. If it catches fire and tries to run, you are probably not getting fuel into the engine due to carb issues (assuming fuel is reaching the carbs).

If you have popping on decal, poor response when you first press down on the throttle, which recovers quickly, a slow return to idle when you've released the throttle, or just plain sloppy idle, it may well be clogged or partially clogged pilot jets. You can try turning out (CCW) the pilot screws (front, bottom of the carbs, screwhead up inside small cylindrical bore) about 1/4 turn at a time. First, turn them clockwise while counting turns until you bottom out... return CCW to this count - their original positon. Start experimenting from there, 1/4 turn or so at a time, keeping count. If you have to turn any further than 3 1/2 - 4 or so turns from bottomed out and you still haven't got the performance you want, then either your pilot jets are plugged or they need to go larger.

The only solution to these problems (if pilot screw adjustment didn't work) is to dismantle and thoroughly clean the carbs, the jets, needles, choke plunger, float valves and all passages. I prefer to use spray carb cleaner, toothbrush, and thin copper wire (a strand or several stolen from a piece of speaker wire). Make sure that all passages in the carb body have been sprayed until you can see the spray exiting from another passage (they all end up somewhere else), and then blow clean with compressed air.

Each jet should be inspected, sprayed with cleaner, especially through their small diameter passages, rodded out with the copper wire, then sprayed again and blown clear with air. When done, you should be able to see an nice, circular shaft of light coming through the jet’s passage. If it’s not symmetric, clean some more.

A good discussion on carbs (removing, disassembling, cleaning, jetting, etc.) is in the forum here: http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20

That's all I have time for, for now. I will be adding, as I have more time, or as you all contribute good ideas!

CONTINUED IN PART 3 BELOW
i have an '03 raptor that i put an '04 motor in. it rode it for 2 minutes,it jumped into rev. i finally got started back up, rode it for 5 min cut off. i tried to start it today with starting fluid all it does is make these insane popping noises! i dont have a clue!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Part 3 (placeholder)

Room to add more - so they'll all be in contiguous order when i'm done, no other posts in between.

PLEASE CHIME IN WITH ANY IDEAS, COMMENTS, ETC., IN A REPLY.

CONTINUED IN PART 4 BELOW
 
#4 · (Edited)
Part 4 (Placeholder)

Room to add more - so they'll all be in contiguous order when i'm done, no other posts in between.

PLEASE CHIME IN WITH ANY IDEAS, COMMENTS, ETC., IN A REPLY.

CONTINUED IN PART 5 BELOW
 
#5 · (Edited)
Part 5 (Placeholder)

Room to add more - so they'll all be in contiguous order when i'm done, no other posts in between.

PLEASE CHIME IN WITH ANY IDEAS, COMMENTS, ETC., IN A REPLY.
 
#93 ·
Room to add more - so they'll all be in contiguous order when i'm done, no other posts in between.

PLEASE CHIME IN WITH ANY IDEAS, COMMENTS, ETC., IN A REPLY.
QuadManiac, Just wanted to say thanks for the great info. I have a 2004 Rhino 660 that would only spark once when releasing the key switch from start position. Went round and round with this thing trying to figure out what was causing this situation with no luck. Finally came across your post and tried your solution. Wham! Fixed my problem. I ended up cutting only the red wire from the stator so now I have cranking spark and the battery is charging. Everything is good without replacing the stator. Don't know how or if it affected the RPM's or reverse speed as it's not mine and don't know how it was running before this problem. Thanks again! JRM
 
#8 ·
Excellent post QM !!

One thing you might want to add is either some of the pictures from other stickies (ie carb 101), or links to some of the other stickies, such as you did with the Starter one-way post.

Great idea man ! :thumbsup:
 
#9 · (Edited)
One thing you might want to add ... links to some of the other stickies, such as you did with the Starter one-way post.
DONE, thanks for the suggestion.
 
#10 ·
Great post Quadmaniac, always of great help. The one thing I had problems with my 05 660 was with warped rear rotors, I tried adjusting my PB a million times and still had to change rotor 3 times in 6 months. Don´t know it this is an issue of the 660 or just me!
 
#11 · (Edited)
The one thing I had problems with my 05 660 was with warped rear rotors, I tried adjusting my PB a million times and still had to change rotor 3 times in 6 months
I have not, personally pulled my PB and installed a block off. Nor do I remember how to adjust the PB... Anybody want to write a quick description - a 'How To' on either/both?
 
#12 ·
All set QuadManiac stickyed. Good work as always!
 
#13 ·
Is the decompression mech a common problem? I got talking to a atv mechanic in the uk today who explained it's a major flaw in the 660 engine along with all the rest! He explained they can weld it before it lets go for £100! Is it worth doing as I've got attached to the beast, he also said it will let go sooner or later!

Cheers

Armo
 
#14 ·
Armo, I honestly haven't heard of (at least on the forum) more than a handfull of issues with the decomp mechanism... others are welcome to chime in if they think it needs attention here - but I'm not the one to write about it, I have no personal experience.
 
#16 ·
pops through exhaust will not run above idle.

Hi I am new to the forum. I bought a 01 660 Raptor that will not run above idle. I have disconnected the PB connector. I have grounded the green with white wire at CDI box. I have had the carbs apart 6 times. Is it possible the CDI box is bad. When I bought it both battery cables were wired to the starter. Thanks in advance for the help. I really want to go riding this weekend. :mad: Steve
 
#17 ·
Hi I am new to the forum. I bought a 01 660 Raptor that will not run above idle. I have disconnected the PB connector. I have grounded the green with white wire at CDI box. I have had the carbs apart 6 times. Is it possible the CDI box is bad. When I bought it both battery cables were wired to the starter. Thanks in advance for the help. I really want to go riding this weekend. :mad: Steve
I would like to add some more info. the neutral light is on in all gears. And reverse does not work. This motor has been apart to install a differant transmission. Is it posible that something was installed wrong. Any ideas where to start looking. Steve
 
#18 ·
I am going to try and ground the green with white stripe wire. My father inlaw has a 01 raptor 660, and it is doing everything you listed. Thanks. I have a 03 Black and red 660R. I put a full GYTR Ex. system, Drilled 3 1" holes in air box,but did not re-jet,should I? It runs fine but when I let off of gas it pops.
 
#20 ·
You need to raise your pilots to 25's. Probably up the mains to. To get the best responses from the people that can help you, you should re-post this as a new post in the open forum, not under a sticky. These get replies seldomly; they're here as a reference.
 
#21 ·
Oil change?

OK, I'm sure everyone will have this question when they first get a Raptor - how do you drain the oil? I opened the drain plug by the shifter shaft, oil came out, all should be good, right? But, the oil tank still has dirty oil in it, and the dipstick indicates full. How do i drain the oil tank without taking it off and dumping it, which will probably be my solution if I can't figure it out soon?

Thanks!
 
#22 ·
OK, I'm sure everyone will have this question when they first get a Raptor - how do you drain the oil? I opened the drain plug by the shifter shaft, oil came out, all should be good, right? But, the oil tank still has dirty oil in it, and the dipstick indicates full. How do i drain the oil tank without taking it off and dumping it, which will probably be my solution if I can't figure it out soon?

Thanks!
14mm plug under the tank, dead center, look under it, and be cautious, the tank is thin and prone to cracking in that area, use a socket with an extension and support the extension with your other hand when pulling on the ratchet..............
 
#24 ·
hey guys ive got a problem ive read the common issuses with the raptor 660's my bike wont start. ive disassembled the carb n cleaned it to the point i would eat off it lol. ive put new spark plug in it. ive removed the tank n dumped it filled with new gas. changed the oil. clean fuel line clean the all the vacuum lines cleaned out the inline tubes cleaned. ive clean everything i could think of that would prevent fuel delivery or air delivery. checked for spark its arcing blue/white arc. so its getting good spark brand new battery just bought it. from the closest parts shop for Atv's. so im stumped on what else to look for i dont know much about ATV's but i know the basic's n im not mechanically inclined so id rather rip it apart myself to fix it then take it to the shop cuz they charge $300 just to find whats wrong n then charge to fix n id rather not spend $1000 for some1 else to fix it if i can do it myself n know how to fix it if it happens again later on down the road.

its an 2004 660
 
#25 ·
This one may take a bit of back n forth, so instead of hijacking the sticky, why don't you copy and paste your post into a new one in the General 660 Discussion section?
 
#28 · (Edited)
1) Please start this as a post in the regular forum - many more will see it there, and this is supposed to be a reference 'sticky'.

2) Check that the carbs are tightly mounted on the intake manifold boots and the clamps are tight.

3) possible that cam chain has slipped.
 
#29 ·
post #1, question #2 was the answer to all my problems, the PB limiter was engaged, took the carburetors apart many times, and the quad still did the same. After I read this post, went and checked the PB limiter switch on the handle and noticed it was not where it is supposed to be. My issue was that the parking brake cable was not adjusted right, so when I disengaged the PB the part that activates the limiter switch stayed in the same place.

thanks.
 
#33 ·
That's because it isn't there yet fellas. Notice where it says "plan on adding in the FUTURE".


and here's what I plan on adding in the near future:
4) NOTHING HAPPENS (OR I JUST HEAR A CLICK OR BUZZ) WHEN I PRESS THE START BUTTON
5) I HEAR A CLUNKING NOISE FROM MY TRANSMISSION IN ONE OR MORE GEARS
;)
 
#34 ·
stator problem? or just wires mest up some were?

my 2002 raptor wont start with the voltage regulator pluged in and it died as soon as i pluged it in. but now i was playing with wires on in and now it still wont start with it pluged in but when i start it i plug it in and it will keep running but if i touch the wires coming out of the plug it dies?stator problem? or just wires mest up some were?
 
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