2016 Raptor 700r HP upgrade - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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2016 Raptor 700r HP upgrade

Hi guys,
So I didn't end up changing any sprockets on my 700 but instead, now I am looking to the idea of building more power on my Raptor. To remind you I have a dual exhaust set up and a tuner currently. My friend is building a 4 mil Banshee, and the other is building a YFZ478..... I need to keep up with all the progress so now it's my turn. What's the best way of building some good power, I was looking into maybe turbocharging? Let me know your thoughts !!


EDIT: I have decided I am gonna go towards doing a big bore build instead. They seem reliable right and can make good power? Anyone know where I can find a good deal/reliable head?

EDIT PT 2: Is the 727 the best way to go? I assume I would need a new cam as well what stage would be best?

Last edited by Jonnah Malsegna; 11-07-2019 at 09:59 PM.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnah Malsegna View Post
Hi guys,
So I didn't end up changing any sprockets on my 700 but instead, now I am looking to the idea of building more power on my Raptor. To remind you I have a dual exhaust set up and a tuner currently. My friend is building a 4 mil Banshee, and the other is building a YFZ478..... I need to keep up with all the progress so now it's my turn. What's the best way of building some good power, I was looking into maybe turbocharging? Let me know your thoughts !!


EDIT: I have decided I am gonna go towards doing a big bore build instead. They seem reliable right and can make good power? Anyone know where I can find a good deal/reliable head?

EDIT PT 2: Is the 727 the best way to go? I assume I would need a new cam as well what stage would be best?
The big question is what kind of riding do you do and where? Street, track, sand, dirt or ?? And, what kind of total horsepower do you want?

A turbo is good for top end power and will cost about the same as N/A to build. You'll need a turbo cam and a $125 SCE head gasket and $150 head studs, maybe a "O" ring cylinder. Be sure NOT to get a oil-less turbo.

Big bores aren't very reliable unless you spend extra money on a GOOD cylinder, $125 SCE head gasket, $150 stud kit and decking the head so it's flat.

A 105.5 big bore motor is 734cc. A 5mm stroker motor is 727cc.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
The big question is what kind of riding do you do and where? Street, track, sand, dirt or ?? And, what kind of total horsepower do you want?

A turbo is good for top end power and will cost about the same as N/A to build. You'll need a turbo cam and a $125 SCE head gasket and $150 head studs, maybe a "O" ring cylinder. Be sure NOT to get an oil-less turbo.

Big bores aren't very reliable unless you spend extra money on a GOOD cylinder, $125 SCE head gasket, $150 stud kit and decking the head so it's flat.

A 105.5 big bore motor is 734cc. A 5mm stroker motor is 727cc.

So I do trail riding and drag racing, and I just talked to someone and they had recommended doing a stroker and porting the head, with a new cam and a larger throttle body. I'm trying to make 70 hp range. I still want reliable power and the ability to ride without it being crazy.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 02:17 PM
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You can do well over 70hp on a stock bore stock stroke engine. Only requires high compression piston, head porting, cam, throttle body, and race fuel or e85.

2015 700Rse
Fci, PC5F/I, monster exhaust, +2 Cuervo head, HDD5150, 54mm throttle body, 105.5 14:1, +8 swingarm.
08 yfz450se
Sparks big core, k&n no lid, yz needle, yz timing mod, +4 swingarm.
“Peepshow”
Cuervo 870, lectron, msd, monster megs, single a-arm lightened chasis, +14 swingarm.
”Monarchy”
Cuervo 930, lectron, msd, db fab titanium chasis.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 03:38 PM
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What is your elevation? My build shown below is SS/SB and is at 68hp. Solid build for all terrain. My dyno was done right at 5000'

[U]2006 raptor 700

DMC Force 4's, FCI W/box, Dynatek Fusion,
CP 11:1 piston, BaMotorsports porting, HC3
RacersEdge +3TB
YFZ 450 fronts & reworked rear by JOGACA
Trailtech 1 1/8 xbar w/vapor dash & Vapor installed
ODI Rogue grips & ASV pro pack levers
Fastway steering stabilizer
68HP 49TQ

PM me if you need service manuals
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by t web2007 View Post
You can do well over 70hp on a stock bore stock stroke engine. Only requires high compression piston, head porting, cam, throttle body, and race fuel or e85.
As Troy says, 70HP and torque around 55FP is possible with stock bore/stock stroke. You'll at least need a 11:1 piston that is pump gas safe, or depending on your elevation maybe 11.5:1 piston, head porting by a qualified porter, cam would be a HDD5050 or Web 4 and required springs and maybe bigger valves, and a +3 bored factory throttle body. High 70HP would need 14:1 compression, bigger valves for sure and race fuel/E85. And as mentioned, SCE head gasket and studs. A 12:1 piston is available but if running race gas , might as well as do 14:1 Want more torque and more HP, do a stroker, but be ready to spend $2000 on 5mm or more stroker, trued, balanced and welded. No matter what crank you use, always have it trued and welded. On ALL my builds I like to use a "crank bearing support plate" available from Cuervo.

One thing to be aware of, 70HP can be a handful depending how tight or open your trails are.
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'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by t web2007 View Post
You can do well over 70hp on a stock bore stock stroke engine. Only requires high compression piston, head porting, cam, throttle body, and race fuel or e85.
So what would you recommend doing then? As in the compression, piston, how much porting, what type of cam and size of the throttle body?
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
As Troy says, 70HP and torque around 55FP is possible with stock bore/stock stroke. You'll at least need a 11:1 piston that is pump gas safe, or depending on your elevation maybe 11.5:1 piston, head porting by a qualified porter, cam would be a HDD5050 or Web 4 and required springs and maybe bigger valves, and a +3 bored factory throttle body. High 70HP would need 14:1 compression, bigger valves for sure and race fuel/E85. And as mentioned, SCE head gasket and studs. A 12:1 piston is available but if running race gas , might as well as do 14:1 Want more torque and more HP, do a stroker, but be ready to spend $2000 on 5mm or more stroker, trued, balanced and welded. No matter what crank you use, always have it trued and welded. On ALL my builds I like to use a "crank bearing support plate" available from Cuervo.

One thing to be aware of, 70HP can be a handful depending how tight or open your trails are.
Ok thank you. That's what I was looking for, trying to get more power but 70 is most likely plenty for what I am doing, Im also trying to stick with pump gas as well. My elevation is low, were pretty much at sea level for elevation. (600 ish)
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonnah Malsegna View Post
Ok thank you. That's what I was looking for, trying to get more power but 70 is most likely plenty for what I am doing, Im also trying to stick with pump gas as well. My elevation is low, were pretty much at sea level for elevation. (600 ish)
You should contact Daniel at Cuervo Racing and talk about your needs. That's all he does is Raptor 700's and has lots of winning races under his belt. T-Web2007 who replied above has a race motor, last summer, making around 115-125 horse power. He can correct me if I have it wrong, haaha. My wife said, "I hope he lives"! His lady also has a show winning fast 700.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2019, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEZPERADO View Post
As Troy says, 70HP and torque around 55FP is possible with stock bore/stock stroke. You'll at least need a 11:1 piston that is pump gas safe, or depending on your elevation maybe 11.5:1 piston, head porting by a qualified porter, cam would be a HDD5050 or Web 4 and required springs and maybe bigger valves, and a +3 bored factory throttle body. High 70HP would need 14:1 compression, bigger valves for sure and race fuel/E85. And as mentioned, SCE head gasket and studs. A 12:1 piston is available but if running race gas , might as well as do 14:1 Want more torque and more HP, do a stroker, but be ready to spend $2000 on 5mm or more stroker, trued, balanced and welded. No matter what crank you use, always have it trued and welded. On ALL my builds I like to use a "crank bearing support plate" available from Cuervo.

One thing to be aware of, 70HP can be a handful depending how tight or open your trails are.

So another question, so If i have the head sent out and ported, with an 11:1 piston, a HDD5050 and +3 throttle body, would I have to do new valves? And would this combination be sufficient to give me 70HP right?
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