700 YFM R 2018 speed sensor - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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700 YFM R 2018 speed sensor

Hey there, you guys.
Iím French and new to the forum.
Iíll use Google translate so forgive me for mediocre English.: wink
I just bought a 700 from 2018.
Iím having trouble reaching 130 km/h on the GPS.
I have 15 teeth and 36 teeth.
Line FMF 4.1+power Bomb.
I think that electronic clamping as in other years is a problem for me.
The Mod that did this before no longer works.
Do you know a new MOD that allows to remove the electronic bridging on the 5th report or is that there is an electronic box(dobeck,PC,...)that allows to remove this bridging?

Thank you very much.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 02:34 PM
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I have heard, but can not verify that if you disconnect the clutch switch it will bypass the speed limiter. Theory is that the ECU will think the clutch is pulled in all of the time.
I disconnected my clutch switch when I added aftermarket bars and clutch lever. I ride woods so I have never needed a high top speed and have not tested this modification for top speed.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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thank you.
Yesterday I tested this modification and I put tape on the pusher to make believe that the clutch was pressed but it didnít wor
I only drive on the road.
Before the raptor I had a Banshee and it went much faster
I read a lot of mod big 3 but I donít know what it is...
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 05:47 PM
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First let me say your translation is very good.

As best as I know, there is no cure for the limiter on the newer 700's.

My concern may be your gears are to tall to reach maximum power to overcome the drag. You can test this by operating in 4th gear and see if you go faster. If so it may help to go one tooth smaller on the front, or one or two teeth bigger in the rear.

The 'big 3' consists of a fuel controller, free flow air cleaner and full exhaust system, Combined they usually add about 10 horsepower. After that would be a Stage 3 cam that will add about 3 horsepower and a +3 bored throttle body that also add about _3 horsepower.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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Iím going to try to put the original 38 teeth back in place of the 36 to do a test. Thatís a good idea.
Too bad about the fifth speed bridging!
I found a preparer that passes the butterfly body to 47mm, is that the dimension I need in the BIG 3?
In EFI case, the PC5 is the best?(+autotune?)
In an air filter, I saw that the KN and other air filters of the same type were not the best.
A foam filter TWINAIR +air box cover KN is OK for the BIG 3?
I am also looking for a camshaft but difficult to find for models 2018.
For road use, level 3 is more suitable I think?
I donít want to lose reliability.

Thank you
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 06:49 AM
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The hot cams stage 3 is mild in lift and how aggressive the lobes are. It will be very reliable as it is easy on the valve train components while still giving a good increase in power.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Resellers in France tell me that you have to have a high compression piston and also change the valve springs for stage 2 and 3.They advise me to do a stage 1.
I will also make my body shine at 47mm and put an air filter TWINAIR + Power commander .
i What do you think?
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 04:05 PM
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Stock springs will work with the Hot Cams. Your stock compression will work with the stage 2 and 3 cam. A higher compression piston will improve the low end power. I tried the stage 2 with a stock piston and it worked good. After I put in a 12-1 CP piston I gained more power at all rpms. Bigger cams have more valve overlap that bleed off dynamic compression. The higher piston compression helps gain back some of the low rpm power you can lose when adding a large camshaft.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-24-2019, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicolas Petiteaux View Post
Iím going to try to put the original 38 teeth back in place of the 36 to do a test. Thatís a good idea.
Too bad about the fifth speed bridging!
I found a preparer that passes the butterfly body to 47mm, is that the dimension I need in the BIG 3?
In EFI case, the PC5 is the best?(+autotune?)
In an air filter, I saw that the KN and other air filters of the same type were not the best.
A foam filter TWINAIR +air box cover KN is OK for the BIG 3?
I am also looking for a camshaft but difficult to find for models 2018.
For road use, level 3 is more suitable I think?
I donít want to lose reliability.

Thank you
A 38 tooth may make a positive difference if you have enough chain.

As said before, the Big 3 is fuel controller, full exhaust and improved air cleaner. The K&N air filter has been shown to pass fine particles. There are similar K&N "style" filters that have more gauze layers and do a better job. Or, the foam filter is another option. But I always use a pre-filter. What ever your decision, be careful of over oiling.

Now, when you "add" a bigger throttle body that's a Big 1, and a cam is another Big 1. With all combined that is called the Big 5 and is done in that order.

Yes, the throttle body can be bored to 47mm, but be sure the machinist knows that a new throttle blade needs to be fabricated with angled edges and the shaft needs machined too.

Your 2018 already has a higher compression piston, so the Stage 3 cam will be a good choice for medium to high speeds. No special valves or springs are required. Slower speeds may benefit from the Stage 2, but I see no reason to use a Stage 1.

Your next performance gains would be head porting and a 11:1 compression piston. None of these modifications with a good map will affect reliability.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-24-2019, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot, guys.
I think my chain is pretty long for 38/15, I’m testing this weekend.

I bought a Power Commander 5 last night. Do you also need the autotune or not?
I hope that won’t be too difficult to regelr without a power bench.
What is a Head porting please?

So if I summarize what I understood:

My 2018 already has a high compression piston so it is not necessary for me to change it. This is good news!
The bore of the injection body can be done but it is an operation that requires precautions.
If I put a HOTCAMS level 3 camshaft,I can keep the rest of the mechanics without changing everything(valve springs,valves.

So if I do PC5+camshaft stage 3+complete line+air filter, the Machian will be as reliable as it was...

Thank you so much
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