**STICKY** Complete Raptor 700 FCI Installation - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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**STICKY** Complete Raptor 700 FCI Installation

Background:
As the recipient of the FCI (Fuel Customs Intake) that was given away in the VIP section of the website (section reserved for paying members of this wonderful website), I am doing a write-up to help others with the decision about which intake to buy and how to install the FCI should they choose to go that route. This entire thing would not have been possible without the great coordination of Illusive, a moderator for Raptorforum, and Garrett, from FCI.

The intake was installed on my fiancιs bike… yes she rides with me and is actually faster than many guys I have ridden with in the past. The specs of the engine/performance mods on the quad are as follows:
2007 Raptor 700
1. +5 Hotrods stroker crank
2. 11:1 Wiseco piston
3. Lucky700 ported head
4. HDD5050 cam with heavy duty springs
5. +3 TB (throttle body)
6. Modquad intake adapter with a single stage UNI pod filter and outerwear
7. MSD Blaster FI controller (available but not originally tuned with DL700 timing curves)
8. DMC Force IV dual exhaust

The quad originally was dyno tuned with a CP Tech 11.5:1 piston on 93 octane and registered 63hp and 50ft/lbs tq on the local dyno. However since then I had switched the engine to the 11:1 Wiseco piston to help alleviate some detonation issues.

Package / Initial impression:

When I opened the box from the original giveaway I was pleasantly surprised to find:
9. FCI intake tube
10. FCI mounting bracket
11. Small diameter rubber vent line
12. Larger diameter rubber vent line
13. Throttle body boot
14. FCI cone air filter (K&N style)
15. FCI filter outerwear
16. Aluminum mounting brackets for MSD
17. STICKERS!!!!!


The FCI tube is a huge upgrade to the stock intake as far as the airflow path and actual intake diameter. I didn’t measure it but would guess that the intake has close to double the intake area at the air filter.


Because of the extreme dusty conditions where I ride I ended up ordering the UNI foam filter. Below you will see it pictured next to my previous UNI pod filter.



Tools Needed:
The tools you will need will depend on if you are stock or not. The bike this FCI was installed on was certainly not stock and some of the fasteners were more than likely swapped. That being said, I would recommend having the following tools handy:
• Ό” Drive metric sockets
o 8mm
o 10mm
o 12mm
• Open end metric sockets
o 10mm
• Metric allen wrenches
o 4mm
• Screwdrivers
o Flat – small, medium and wide
o Philips - #2 (medium)
• 6mm thread tap
• WD 40
• Rags
• Filter oil
• Plastic grocery bag

Removal of old intake:

The installation can be fairly in depth or quite simple, depending on how difficult you want to make it. Because I tend to make things more complicated hopefully people can learn from me and shorten the installation time.

1. Begin by removing the seat

2. Remove the front plastics. Note that this is a step that can possibly be eliminated
o Remove front grill
• Remove two button head allen (4mm) screws (both sides of the steering stem)


o Remove tank topper
• Unscrew gas cap
• Use Philips screwdriver and small flat screwdriver to remove two quick fasteners from front portion of where seat has been removed


• Slide tank topper back slightly and lift
o Remove two bolts (10mm) from under where seat was removed


o Remove two button head allen (4mm) screws and nuts (10mm) from rear side of front fenders (both sides)


o Remove two bolts (10mm) from under fenders behind lights (both sides)


o Remove bolt from nose of fender (likely 10mm but mine had been replaced with an 8mm) from under grill cover


2007 700-
11:1 Wiseco piston, +5 HR crank, Lucky700R ported head, HDD5050 cam, +3TB, DMC Force IV duals, MSD Blaster FI controller, UNI pod filters, ITP Beadlock rims + more

2001 Raptor-
100.5mm 11:1 Wiseco piston, balanced crank, trail ported head, Ferrea valves, stage 2 HC, Barker duals, UNI pod filters + more

2007 pitbike-
150cc Lifan engine, 26mm Mikuni carb, 32mm custom stainless steel exhaust, 12" motard tires, working on LED

Last edited by maxtrax; 02-23-2014 at 08:02 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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o Disconnect wiring harness


3. Removal of the gas tank may also help improve visibility and access. Note: that this is a step that was not found to be necessary!
o Remove bolts (10mm) on all four corners of tank.
o Disconnect wiring harness on top of tank.
o Disconnect gas line on top of tank.

4. Remove undertail plastics
o Bolt (10mm)on left side near where fender comes down to the heel guard
o Bolt (10mm) on right side underneath fender
o Slide undertail back and gently pull down
o Disconnect wire harness by left subframe rail


5. Remove battery clamp (10mm) and rubber cover
6. Remove four airbox bolts (10mm)


7. Disconnect intake temperature sensor


8. Disconnect intake vacuum lines by squeezing clamps and sliding them away from the T fitting. carefully use pliers or fingers to pull the hoses off the fitting.



9. Using a phillips (#2) screwdriver, loosen clamp and disconnect intake tube from airbox.


10. Disconnect intake tube from throttle body using and allen wrench (4mm). Pliers may be needed to increase the leverage of the allen wrench due to limited space.


11. Remove intake tube

12. Remove temp sensor and vacuum T from intake tube
o Spray joint between tube and device with WD-40
o Use a large flat screwdriver to gently pry the fittings out. Be careful not to break them as they are plastic and may be brittle.


13. Remove airbox
o Lift box slightly and disconnect CDI. This may require the use of a screwdriver to very carefully release the retainer clip if you have large fingers. In my case I had the MSD installed so the extra wiring harnesses limited the space greatly.
o Disconnect the crankcase breather hose on front left of airbox


2007 700-
11:1 Wiseco piston, +5 HR crank, Lucky700R ported head, HDD5050 cam, +3TB, DMC Force IV duals, MSD Blaster FI controller, UNI pod filters, ITP Beadlock rims + more

2001 Raptor-
100.5mm 11:1 Wiseco piston, balanced crank, trail ported head, Ferrea valves, stage 2 HC, Barker duals, UNI pod filters + more

2007 pitbike-
150cc Lifan engine, 26mm Mikuni carb, 32mm custom stainless steel exhaust, 12" motard tires, working on LED
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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14. Remove the disconnected vacuum lines from the throttle body



15. Remove the CDI and bracket from the airbox (10mm?). In my case I have the MSD Blaster so I had to remove the MSD from the mounting plate and remove the mounting plate from the airbox (4mm allen and #2 phillips).


Installation of new parts:

16. Install new vacuum lines and T fitting onto throttle body
o Cut larger vacuum line supplied with the kit to 4-7/8” to 5” and attach to the T fitting
o Install smaller diameter onto the other side of the T.
o Attach a small section 1” to 1-1/2 “ of the larger diameter vacuum line to the stem of the T


17. Install the vacuum assembly onto the throttle body.

18. Insert temp sensor into intake tube and snug bolt with allen wrench (4mm). Use order of:
o Rubber o-ring
o Temp sensor
o Aluminum retainer plate
o Bolt
o Small washer goes between aluminum retainer plate and the intake


19. Work the support plate between the frame rails (I had the tube installed in the picture but would wait to install it yet.


20. Install the crankcase breather filter onto the tube and put it underneath the support plate. If you are using the airbox setup I would recommend trimming the tube slightly due to the reduced space. (UNI UP-123 filter)




21. (If you are installing the intake with the airbox please skip to step 22) At this point you would want to use the aluminum brackets to install the CDI on the left frame rail. If you are using an MSD you would mount the MSD to the aluminum brackets and the stock CDI would mount to the large aluminum support plate (covering the logo).

22. (If you are installing the intake without the airbox please skip to step 2 Install the MSD mounting plate to the side of the airbox (#2 philips and 4mm allen). Then install the MSD to the plate using the 4 screws (#2 philips).


2007 700-
11:1 Wiseco piston, +5 HR crank, Lucky700R ported head, HDD5050 cam, +3TB, DMC Force IV duals, MSD Blaster FI controller, UNI pod filters, ITP Beadlock rims + more

2001 Raptor-
100.5mm 11:1 Wiseco piston, balanced crank, trail ported head, Ferrea valves, stage 2 HC, Barker duals, UNI pod filters + more

2007 pitbike-
150cc Lifan engine, 26mm Mikuni carb, 32mm custom stainless steel exhaust, 12" motard tires, working on LED
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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23. Because my box did not come the airbox I am not sure if I received all the optimal hardware to mount it. It was my choice to tap the airbox holes in the aluminum mounting plate to accept the 6mm bolts (6mm tap). Because the plate is aluminum I did back them up with nuts and tighten with a wrench (10mm).



24. In order to install the airbox I had to twist and squeeze it between the frame rails before it returned to the proper shape.


25. Plug in the MSD to the wiring harness. It is a tight fit and I had trouble with the rubber seal on the wiring connection pushing out of place. Having the wiring harness completely straight before pushing it in is the key.

26. The stock CDI will sit in the tool tray. The wiring harness from the MSD can be routed through the holes in the bottom of the tool tray or over the top. I opted to run over the top to help keep the wiring away from the exhaust and keep everything better contained.



27. Install and tighten three airbox bolts (10mm). Do not install two bolts in the aluminum mounting plate yet. If you have a dual exhaust system now is also a good time to check for clearance on both sides!



28. Slide the rubber connection boot to the small end of the FCI intake tube. It is important to note that the boot has two different sizes. The smaller end is designed to face the throttle body and the larger end toward the FCI tube. Tighten it onto the FCI tube using a screwdriver(#2 flat)

29. Maneuver it through the airbox/mounting plate and onto the throttle body. Be sure to fully seat the boot onto the throttle body and tighten the second clamp (#2 flat).



30. Hook up the vacuum lines near the throttle body to the FCI tube
31. Plug in the intake air temp sensor
32. Install air filter
o If you are using a K&N style filter
• Oil and install outerwear
• Place filter in box and tighten the band clamp (Flat screwdriver)
o If you are using a UNI or foam style filter
• Place filter into a plastic grocery bag


2007 700-
11:1 Wiseco piston, +5 HR crank, Lucky700R ported head, HDD5050 cam, +3TB, DMC Force IV duals, MSD Blaster FI controller, UNI pod filters, ITP Beadlock rims + more

2001 Raptor-
100.5mm 11:1 Wiseco piston, balanced crank, trail ported head, Ferrea valves, stage 2 HC, Barker duals, UNI pod filters + more

2007 pitbike-
150cc Lifan engine, 26mm Mikuni carb, 32mm custom stainless steel exhaust, 12" motard tires, working on LED
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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• Spray a decent amount of foam air filter oil evenly across the entire outside surface


• Let the filter sit for about 2 minutes to let the oil get a little sticky
• Wrap the filter in the bag and work the oil into the entire filter evenly


• Keep the filter wrapped in the bag (keeps your hands clean), place filter in box and tighten the band clamp (Flat screwdriver)
• Remove bag


33. Reinstall battery clamp bolts (10mm)

34. Reinstall undertail plastic
o Reconnect wire harness by left subframe rail
o Slide undertail into place making sure all wires are contained on the left side
o Bolt (10mm)on left side near where fender comes down to the heel guard
o Bolt (10mm) on right side underneath fender

35. Reinstall the gas tank if removed
o Reconnect gas line on top of tank
o Reconnect wiring harness on top of tank
o Reinstall bolts (10mm) on all four corners of tank

36. Reinstall front plastic if removed
o Reconnect gear indicator / warning lights wiring harness
o Reinstall bolt (10mm) to very front nose
o Reinstall bolts (10mm) to under fenders behind headlights (both sides)
o Reinstall button head allen (4mm) screws and nuts (10mm) from rear side of front fenders (both sides)
o Install two longer bolts (10mm) through the FCI metal support plate and fenders under seat
o Reinstall tank topper
• Remove gas cap
• Place topper into position and slide forward to engage plastic hooks. Ensure that all are hooked properly before installing fasteners.
• Simply press two quick fasteners into the rear holes under front portion of the seat
• Do not install button head screws to front of tank topper yet.
o Install front grill
• Install two button head allen (4mm) screws (both sides of steering stem)

37. Install seat

38. Test ride (Always wear your helmet!)

39. Dyno tune

Final impression:
There are definitely things that could be improved on the FCI but overall the quality and design seemed pretty solid. Most of the improvements I would recommend would likely drive the cost of manufacturing up due to increased handling.

It is hard to tell from a seat of the pants feeling how much it has helped because we have tons of snow and ice here. I have to schedule my dyno tune yet but will be posting the sheets once I have them available.


2007 700-
11:1 Wiseco piston, +5 HR crank, Lucky700R ported head, HDD5050 cam, +3TB, DMC Force IV duals, MSD Blaster FI controller, UNI pod filters, ITP Beadlock rims + more

2001 Raptor-
100.5mm 11:1 Wiseco piston, balanced crank, trail ported head, Ferrea valves, stage 2 HC, Barker duals, UNI pod filters + more

2007 pitbike-
150cc Lifan engine, 26mm Mikuni carb, 32mm custom stainless steel exhaust, 12" motard tires, working on LED
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 07:05 PM
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Amazing job with the install directions!

Enjoy the new intake man.

08 Raptor 700r - March 2014 ROTM
DMC Force 4 Duals, Pro Design K&N - No Lid, PC5 Tuned by Cuervo Racing
+5mm HotRods Stroker Crank, 12.1 CP Piston, HotCam Stage 3, +3 Throttle Body
ODI Grips, ProTaper SE Bars, 2014 SE Plastic swap, Cut by myself
+6 Stellar ladder bar Swing arm, Jogaca reworked rear shock, E-Brake Block Off Plate
74.5" ro 12 Paddle SLS Haulers

Dynoed at 69hp/53tq on 110 race gas


My Youtube Videos
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 08:20 PM
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What is this used for?


07 700 SE
Custom powder coating. Custom +2 stem. 2013 plastics
DMC Force 4 dual's. FCI Intake w/box. PCV w/auto tune
JD +2 MCG arms. +4 G-Force axle
Fastwaay stage 3. Precision clamp
Pro Taper bars. ASV Shorty levers
Pro Armor Tether. Pro Armor Nerf bars.
Streamline steel braided lines.
Motion pro throttle&clutch cable
ITP SS rims. STI XC tires
Raptor Eyes. Irate rad gaurd. ODI Lock grips.
Renthal sprockets 13/38. UNI Chain
Armidillo swing arm skid. TM Design chassis skid.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeenWolf View Post


What is this used for?
That is supposed to be the fitting that the crankcase breather hose attaches to. However, if you attach to that it doesn't utilize a filter so I opted for direct crankcase filter and didn't use that fitting. I did leave it in place to allow the airbox to drain if water gets in it.


2007 700-
11:1 Wiseco piston, +5 HR crank, Lucky700R ported head, HDD5050 cam, +3TB, DMC Force IV duals, MSD Blaster FI controller, UNI pod filters, ITP Beadlock rims + more

2001 Raptor-
100.5mm 11:1 Wiseco piston, balanced crank, trail ported head, Ferrea valves, stage 2 HC, Barker duals, UNI pod filters + more

2007 pitbike-
150cc Lifan engine, 26mm Mikuni carb, 32mm custom stainless steel exhaust, 12" motard tires, working on LED
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 08:29 PM
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Benefits of a crank case filter vs none?


07 700 SE
Custom powder coating. Custom +2 stem. 2013 plastics
DMC Force 4 dual's. FCI Intake w/box. PCV w/auto tune
JD +2 MCG arms. +4 G-Force axle
Fastwaay stage 3. Precision clamp
Pro Taper bars. ASV Shorty levers
Pro Armor Tether. Pro Armor Nerf bars.
Streamline steel braided lines.
Motion pro throttle&clutch cable
ITP SS rims. STI XC tires
Raptor Eyes. Irate rad gaurd. ODI Lock grips.
Renthal sprockets 13/38. UNI Chain
Armidillo swing arm skid. TM Design chassis skid.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Not running a filter can result in bugs, dust or sand to get into the crankcase as the piston goes up and down - creating pressure and vacuum.


2007 700-
11:1 Wiseco piston, +5 HR crank, Lucky700R ported head, HDD5050 cam, +3TB, DMC Force IV duals, MSD Blaster FI controller, UNI pod filters, ITP Beadlock rims + more

2001 Raptor-
100.5mm 11:1 Wiseco piston, balanced crank, trail ported head, Ferrea valves, stage 2 HC, Barker duals, UNI pod filters + more

2007 pitbike-
150cc Lifan engine, 26mm Mikuni carb, 32mm custom stainless steel exhaust, 12" motard tires, working on LED
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