So here is a quick tutorial how install a HID kit to a raptor. I captured only the important stuff. If you don't know what are you doing than I advise you not to do it since this is one way mod and once you start cutting your lights there is no way back unless you buy new ones. There is quite a lot of improvising and doing it on your own.
The most important things you'll need:
- 2 20A+ relays (I used 30A)
- waterproof rotating switch (The best way or two switches like me to achieve same functionality)
- wires (black, red, or any other colour if you desire)
- soldering iron
- other minor electrical stuff
- I assume you allready have a 10mm wrench, screwdriver, oven, drill, etc.
* Step 1 Dissasembling
Disassemble the raptor for easy access to the headlights and electrical wires. Just take the plastics off. No need to remove the intercoller or anything similar. Undo the 10mm bolt on top of the light and pull it off from the two remaining holders. Both are on rubber and come off fairly easily.
* Step 2 Opening the lights
Take off the lights and put them in a oven so the silicon becomes flexible. Preheat the oven to 150°C and put the light inside (with no bulb and other cables) for about 2 minutes. When placing the light inside put it on wooden panel or something so that the heated grid inside the oven won't damage the soft plastics.
Put some gloves on and take out the light. With a help of a friend that has a flat screwdriver unclip the light and disassemble it. The silicon is some kind of Japanese masterpiece and its extremely strong so use the force.
* Step 3 Modifying the lens
After this there is no way back.
Cut the default cables of the light between the connector and the light assembly. You will need the black and yellow wire to control the shutter for the HI beam. Use the lense so you can adjust the light elevation and that the light will be centred and pointed directly upfront. Remove the inner holder for the light bulb. I used some long nose pillers and twisted the holder all the way around. Once the steel part is out grind the hole a bit to make the back of projector fit. You can test it by putting it in on the opposite side. Once the hole is big enough mark the lens and start cutting it. Use the angle grinder for the job. Don't use any cable cutters or anything similar since the plastic is very rigid and will crack or brake off in large segments. After a while you should end up with something similar.
* Step 4 Electrical wiring
First of all I threw away the wiring harness controller since it was useless to me and was wired in such weird way that it couln't possibly work. I used only the connectors.
This may be the most complicated and time consuming part of the whole thing. Once you made the projector fit in the projector and everything in back in the light assembly (with no front plastic) mount the light back to the frame and start wiring it. Instead of the rotary switch I used two normal waterproof switches. The functionality is the same. I'll upgrade to rotary once I get it. For the relays I used 4 contact 30A car relays and hot glued the bottom part to make it waterproof. Use cable ties to hold everything in place, rubber hoses and shrinking tube to make everything water, dirt and damage resistant.
Both lights mounted.
Electrical wiring nearly completed