How To: Dirtbike Kill Switch as Start Button - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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How To: Dirtbike Kill Switch as Start Button

Chop That Blob!

Here is a simple way to clean up the handlebars by removing the factory switch assembly and replacing it with a YZ kill switch (The dirtbike kill switch will become the start button). This is also a great time to add a tethered kill switch if desired and that will be described down below. The point of this modification is to clean up a little clutter on the bars and simplify things. If you have already relocated your key due to larger bars, you can take it a step further with the blob removal. This modification is not for everyone.

For safety precautions, remove the negative battery cable. I removed the front plastics for ease of access, but you probably don’t have to depending how far back you cut the factory harness. Remove the factory switch “Blob” assembly from the handlebars, cut about a foot down the harness with a pair of scissors.



Next, pull the wire sheathing either off, or cut it back to expose a few inches of the wires. You should have the following wires:
-Red
-Red w/Black stripe
-Blue
-Blue w/Black stripe
-Yellow
-Yellow w/Red stripe
-Brown
-Black

Some quick info, the Red and Yellow w/Red stripe are one in the same. There is a “Y” junction in the factory harness. These two wires are both power supply wires for the hi/lo function in the headlight switch. You ONLY need the yellow with red stripe wire. If you cut down further toward the connector for the harness you will bypass this junction and only have the yellow w/red stripe. Here is pic of factory junction:



Back to the wiring. If you do not plan to run a tether kill switch, tie the Brown & Red/Black stripe together. If you are going to run a tethered kill switch, tie one wire to each of the kill switch's wires (pull the tether, engine stops).



The YZ Kill switch has two wires, one solid black, and one black with white stripe. Tie the black of the YZ switch to the black on the factory harness. Also tie the black with white stripe from the YZ switch to the blue with black stripe on the factory harness.





There you have it. Before any soldering insert the key and make sure she fires up. The key will now be the way you turn off the bike (and/or tethered kill switch if you installed one).

BUT WAIT, THERES MORE!


If you do not run headlights, neatly tape up and stow away the remaining wires. If you want to retain the headlights, keep going.

You should have a solid blue wire, solid yellow wire, and yellow with red stripe wire remaining. The solid blue and yellow wires are your hi/lo wires, and the yellow w/red stripe is the power wire. I used a push button style toggle switch, but a regular toggle will work just as well. Either way, make sure it is water proof. Tie the solid blue and solid yellow wire together. Now the hi/lo beams will come on together at the same time providing higher output. The toggle switch will have two wires. Connect one wire to the yellow w/red stripe power wire, and connect the other wire to the blue/yellow wires.



Turn the key on, and flip or push the toggle to verify headlights come on:



Now solder everything up, your connections should look like this:



Shrink wrap or tape everything up neatly and place inside a new wire loom. Now grab a beer, sit back and enjoy the new setup:



The black button below the key is the new headlight switch:



YZ250 Kill Switch $9.99---> https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...2-YAMAHA-YZ250

Push button toggle for headlights $7.99 --->




Enjoy!

06' 700 SE
-Pro Taper-
-Elka-
-GT Thunder-
-Alba-
-Lonestar-
-Streamline-
-PC5-
-Pro Design-
-HMF-

Last edited by TorchTarga94; 07-15-2018 at 10:30 AM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 11:09 PM
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Very nice write up. Im electricly challenged, and i think even i could do this with the help you gave here. Great job

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07' Raptor 700- 11:1, hotcam 3, Pro design intake with K&N, +3 throttle body, Monster big bore duals, MSD with cuervo timing, JOGACA shocks, trail tech VAPOR, GYTR heel guards & bumper & nerfs, .250 aluminum skids, TM case saver, folding anodized levers and shifter, powermadd hand guards

04' raptor 660-Hot rods crank, .5mm overbore, 11:1 wiseco piston, Stage 1 hotcam, Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, K&N filter with outerwears, open lid airbox, Dynojet stage 2 jet kit
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 4stroker4life View Post
Very nice write up. Im electricly challenged, and i think even i could do this with the help you gave here. Great job

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Thanks for the feedback! Yes its very easy to do, and a worthwhile mod IMO.

06' 700 SE
-Pro Taper-
-Elka-
-GT Thunder-
-Alba-
-Lonestar-
-Streamline-
-PC5-
-Pro Design-
-HMF-
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 07:14 AM
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Very nice. Might look into this for my dinosaur

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 02:39 PM
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Great write up, sticky worthy even for all members.
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[U]2006 raptor 700

DMC Force 4's, FCI W/box, Dynatek Fusion
CP 11:1 piston, BaMotorsports porting, HC3
RacersEdge +3TB
YFZ 450 fronts & reworked rear by JOGACA
Trailtech 1 1/8 xbar w/vapor dash & Vapor installed
ODI Rogue grips & ASV pro pack levers
PRM Edge Baja bumper w/12" Cree spot/flood bar
PRM Desert grab bar
PRM A-Arm skids, GYTR skid, ProArmor swinger skid
Fastway steering stabilizer
68HP 49TQ

PM me if you need service manuals
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by morphrider View Post
Great write up, sticky worthy even for all members.
Thank you!

06' 700 SE
-Pro Taper-
-Elka-
-GT Thunder-
-Alba-
-Lonestar-
-Streamline-
-PC5-
-Pro Design-
-HMF-
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