Building a RAPTOR 700r 2007(all year parts) - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Building a RAPTOR 700r 2007(all year parts)

I just wanted be informative to the raptor “bike builder” community. (Pictures, deeply descriptive)
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“When there’s a nut, there’s a wrench”
“When there’s a wheel, there’s a way”
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 12:08 PM
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I'm not sure what you're looking for. Are you showing your build, or looking for information?

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Im new to this and don’t know what the HILL is going on lol.

#1 most of your tools for disassembly will be sockets(sz. 8,10,12,14).

- i start by removing the head covers, then the head bolts(12/14??) The small hell screws “head holder”(per “partzillas” youtube vid) are like t20s/30s. LOOSEN BUT DONT REMOVE YET
(IF YOU DONT HAVE A PROPER FLYWHEEL HOLDING TOOL, YOU MAY WANT TO ATTEMPT TO REMOVE ITS NUT WHILE YOU HAVE THE EXTRA CAM RESISTANCE. NOW)

-CYLINDER HEAD- take cam sprocket off, hold it, allow it to lower about half way until you have enough slack to remove chain.(IF ITS A LITTLE DIFFICULT FOR YOU, STICK A FINGER OR SOMETHING THROUGH SPROCKET “GAP” IN MIDDLE SO IT DOESN'T FALL, TAKE OTHER FINGER/HAND AND RUN IT AGAINST THE UNDERSIDE OF CHAIN AND PUSH TOWARD HEAD. CHAIN CAN FALL ITS OK, I SIT MINE ON THE CAM “DOO HICKIES” THAT U TOOK SPROCKET OFF.

REMOVE HEAD BOLTS(6top,2underside)

#2 Remove cylinder bolts(14s), 2 allens again. Slide cylinder off.

#3 remove clutch cover(8s)(may have to play with the “actuator”/shaft arm, twist inward.)

-to get most gears off you can use an “impact gun”(easier) if you dont have or cant use, “PARTZILLA” recommends using a combination of appropriate aluminum “chuncks”/pieces and holding tools to acquire the proper “hold”/ torque to loosen nuts holding gears and drive components.
-as i REMEMBER, i think my easiest method was to: 1st flywheel
(if you didnt when u removed nut, youll need a “fly wheel puller” in most cases, also be careful with those gears they have a “ friction”/“race” style bearing that look like shaft end caps, may stay in place, get chain out the way too)
——2nd——
On the clutch side, remove the basket spring retaining screws(Phillips head+ or 10/12mm), remove all the fiber and metal plates, remove the ”boss” nut(MAY NEED CLUTCH HOLDING TOOL IF YOU DONT HAVE A SUITABLE IMPACT GUN), remove the basket assembly(its going to be a little washer that may restrict you if u didnt get it)

(IF YOU DONT HAVE IMPACT, OR WANT REASSURANCE, TAKE THE CHAIN DRIVE SPROCKET OFF THE STATOR SIDE. NOW)(its best to loosen and tighten that nut while engine is still on bike, and chain is still on sprocket, one of the highest torques on these bikes)

——3rd—gears(”Use aluminum parts or pieces between gears to hold in place”, Partzilla)
(MUST BE SURE YOU UNFOLDED THE TABS ON ALL “lock” STYLE WASHERS AROUND NUTS) remove those nuts, don’t remember the sizes i used “sae” sizes(was short of larger sizes.22mm-34mm??. )


-remove gear “windage” tray, remove gear nuts, remove gears(MAKE SURE TO LISTEN OR LOOK CAREFULLY AS EACH GEAR SHAFT SHOULD HOLD/ HAVE A “WU-DRUF KEY”)(good time to check for engraving/shear marks on the key itself and the grooves that house them)
——-4th-—-
the Oil pumps gear “windage” tray. There are small allens,take out, but dont bendup, is very soft metal. Use “snap ring” pliers to get ring off of gear shaft. Remove gear. Its 3 allens on oil pump. Remove them, then remove the pump.

—-5th———-
Remove the shift drum “tumbler” and its retainer(2x10mm)(little circular black thing towards back of case by oil pump you just messed with)(12mm deep socket)(MAKE SURE YOU LOOK AND LISTEN FOR SPRINGS AND LITTLE METAL PINS TO RELEASE OR POP OUT)(YOUR SUPPOSED TO SEE A BLACK DRUM DOOKICKEY, 2 metal flaps, 2springs, their 2 end caps, and the retaining plate.)

——6th——-
Remove remaining 8mm bolts holDing the case halves together.( I HAVE A CASE SPLITTER, if you dont this may take a while and some effort...

police on block sooo ill have to resume my passion some other time... will post more later 🏾

“When there’s a nut, there’s a wrench”
“When there’s a wheel, there’s a way”
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 04:23 PM
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My suggestion is not to use a impact on any motor parts without holding the flywheel, gears, sprocket or clutch without some sort of tool to keep the part from spinning, that may shock the gears together, crank and rod or other internal parts may be damaged.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 08:34 PM
I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!

 
Join Date: Jun 2012
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If you are blowing head gaskets the head may be warped, a common problem on the 700. Also, you should always use a factory head gasket and I like to retorque it twice.
morphrider likes this.

'19 Can-Am X3, RS Turbo, 172 HP, 1300x15 STU #2 paddle, Tribute front, DynaTec controller, cat delete, GTP blow off valve, custom flame wrap, Bent Metal windshield, Blazer wiper, rear window, 48in LED light bar, 14in LED light bar, GTP LED side lights, S3 shock tower brace, aluminum rear pull plate, 5K Badlands winch, dual batteries, 5ft lighted whips, Rugged radio and intercom, interior lights, rock lights, chase lights, over $200 additional switches, YES, street legal with dirt tires.
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