5 step speed sensor removal (with pictures) - Page 3 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #21 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-20-2009, 07:37 PM
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Getting rid of the speed limiter will only help you gain power from 4,500 rpms and up in 5th.
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post #22 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-21-2009, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 2007yfzse View Post
Getting rid of the speed limiter will only help you gain power from 4,500 rpms and up in 5th.
Hey bud, I think you are getting a little ahead of yourself on some of your postings. The retarding (dyno proven) happens around 6500-6800 rpm in 5th gear.

By unplugging it, YES, the check engine light will come on after a certain period of time of it being in 5th gear past the 6500rpm point in 5th gear. BY NO MEANS does it "run like crap" like you stated in a earlier post. It simply throws the error code for the speed sensor and reverts back to stock. If that happens you have to go threw the anguish of reaching down and plugging it back in quick roling forward and unplugging it again. Also, 100% of bikes that you unplug it will remove the speed sensor UNTIL the light pops up. Its not a question of some it works, others it doesnt.

If this Blue wire mod works, it seems like the better way to go. HOWEVER, if you end up getting the speed sensor check engine light code again, you are kind a screwed. And I dont think its out of the question for it to possibly happen if you are spending a lot of time at high speed past 6500 rpm in 5th. The reason I say this is several of us now have had the check engine light come on flashing the speed sensor error code and we were running the dynatek ignitions that are suppose to make this sensor obsolete. I didnt even have the sensor installed anymore and had a block of plate and had the ignition and I got the damn light after many many topspeed runs down a runway.
Others have had the light pop up with there's still in but unplugged with ignition. Another had his completely stock with ignition and the damn light came on.

So time will tell if this method 100% works for the long run. Thus far its been iffy with other methods of getting rid of the speed sensor. For us, it was as easy as reinstalling or connecting it back up. Cutting wires is kind a final, unless you have a solder gun out in the woods. This is the latest method, seems like it will work....but based off of all the luck in the past with trying to permanently remove this retarding in 5th you can understand peoples uneasy feelings of cutting ECU wires

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Last edited by 135boom; 10-21-2009 at 01:42 PM.
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post #23 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-21-2009, 01:56 PM
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Nice post/write up Dalonar!

*06 Raptor 700R SE: Barkers, FCI, PC3, DynaTek Ignition (custom curve), HC3, +3 TB, TQS 11.5.1,Evac, Sparkplug Wire Mod w/ iridium NGK, Full GYTR Clutch w/ HD springs, Ohlins Suspension F/R, 15/38G
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post #24 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-21-2009, 04:25 PM
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good!!! cut the cable light blue and put it ground. ok, but cable from the ecu go to ground, or de cable light blue cames from de speed sensor go to ground did you understand mi
sorry, my inglish is so bad. thanks!!!
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post #25 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-21-2009, 05:40 PM
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[QUOTE=135boom;708281]Hey bud, I think you are getting a little ahead of yourself on some of your postings. The retarding (dyno proven) happens around 6500-6800 rpm in 5th gear.

In the article Speed Limiter Bypass (ebay Easy) I thought that was the rpm that someone said but maybe I was off on that. But a few differn't people said that their bikes would not run correctly once the light was on with the sensor unplugged. In fith gear wide open on my gps and vapor with the sensor umplugged it didn't help the power loss (retard in the timing). Once I grounded the wire it woke the bike right up in 5th and I gained 2mph. My light never came on while the sensor was unplugged so I didn't verify the bike running poorly but that is what others were experiancing.
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post #26 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-21-2009, 05:50 PM
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good!!! cut the cable light blue and put it ground. ok, but cable from the ecu go to ground, or de cable light blue cames from de speed sensor go to ground did you understand mi
sorry, my inglish is so bad. thanks!!!
The end from the ECU goes to ground! The end from the speed sensor just tape it up back in the harness.
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post #27 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-21-2009, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fl. Woods Raptor View Post
The end from the ECU goes to ground! The end from the speed sensor just tape it up back in the harness.
+1


just to clarify and backup the modded wire, i drive my rappy 6 days a week 20+ miles going to and from the job site. We live on straight flat roads and i am 5th gear pinned 90% of the time, granted not the most legal speeds in the world but what fun would it be to go 65! anyway, the check engine light hasn't ever came on from the speed sensor. (2009 700r)
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post #28 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-22-2009, 06:27 AM
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Hello, my experience, disconnect the cable it(he,she) drinks blue of the ecu and connect it to mass, then connect the battery realize a general checkup and everything was ok, encendio the engine and everything I remain 10 perfectly. The ecu has a free cable now, a terminal without anything connected. Thank you very much for the information, this weekend will try it in the dunes!!!
Thank you very much!
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post #29 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-22-2009, 06:50 AM
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If the light comes on with this method, could you not just splice the wires back together and roll forward just like you say you have to when unplugging the sensor? Just thinking out loud, i dont even own a 700.

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post #30 of 249 (permalink) Old 10-22-2009, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pedro700 View Post
Hello, my experience, disconnect the cable it(he,she) drinks blue of the ecu and connect it to mass, then connect the battery realize a general checkup and everything was ok, encendio the engine and everything I remain 10 perfectly. The ecu has a free cable now, a terminal without anything connected. Thank you very much for the information, this weekend will try it in the dunes!!!
Thank you very much!
not 100% sure what you are saying but i think you got it, and if the light came on Yes you could just splice the wire back together and ride like stock. The blue wire sends a ground pulse so all you are doing is fooling into a solid ground.
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