Raptor 700 Oil Change Procedure - Page 3 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #21 of 59 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by fast frenchie canada View Post
Do what you want! I just took the info from the pros on here and they have yet to be prooved wrong. Have fun.
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Originally Posted by fast frenchie canada View Post
No problem, If you only fill it in the tank it aint good you need some in the crankcase also so its all lubricated. 1 quart in the tank and i quart in the crank and check the oil you should be perfectly toped off once you have started it up and shut it off with a couple off blips on the throttle to move it around real good. I am each time i do it that way. And mag plugs are good just dont over tighten and dont follow those recommended torque numbers they are full of it. Just tighten by hand then give it a 1/4 turn with the ratchet and you wont strip them out because the crankcase is made of aluminum and real buttery soft so dont go crazy or you will regret it. Use a crush washer on that belly bolt its just an added precaution. I do all this everytime and havent had a problem since i bought my baby brand new. Now tell me this how do you like that Rappy?
Easy , I am not arguing, I think what you are saying is better. I just wish the manual had it that way, maybe the newer ones do.

2007 Yamaha Raptor 2/8/2011-
Amsoil Synthetic Oil
GYTR Sport Bar, Engine/Frame Skid, Swing Arm Skid
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2019 Grizzly 700 Camo EPS
2018 CFMoto CForce 500s
1987 Yamaha Warrior (1986-1989) Was heavily Modified.
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post #22 of 59 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 10:30 AM
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No they just get real technical this amount and that amount of oil. Just F that. I asked FLWoods, Carpenter, SpiderPaleFace and a bunch of others they will probably tell you similar to what i told you. Bro's on here are a ok in my book they take the time to tell you the real stuff. Dont bother measuring everything just poor 1 here and the other quart there and your good to go. I love my rappy and really baby it but not to a point of measuring every freaking ML for my oil come on. I dont got time to waste i wanna ride ride ride.

I try really hard to give the right info when you need it but id rather make people laugh. Their aint enough laughter in this world.

2009 Raptor 700R SE - Mods: Runkind light covers and speed limiter blue wire cut

Can now provide most manuals for most makes and models and years. Send me an email at [email protected] BE SPECIFIC: YEAR/MAKE/MODEL add Hiya Frenchie in your email so i know your from this forum. My manuals galore thread https://www.raptorforum.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=95852
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post #23 of 59 (permalink) Old 02-20-2011, 09:49 PM
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Rotella?

Speaking of oil and changes...is, or has anyone here used Rotella oil. I've spoken with quite a few peeps including some respectable mechanics that say it's as good or better than most anything else out there....and its cheap. Cheap enough to be able to change your oil after every 10 hours or less without going broke. $15.00 per gallon vs 11 or 12 bux per quart of the "you should use this brand" stuff!

Thought I'd get a little feedback from youz guyz too...
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post #24 of 59 (permalink) Old 02-21-2011, 05:54 AM
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Alot use it without any problem. Im sold on my 2 quarts of synthetic blend for sport atv. Hey oil is oil. Its alot like pepsi and coca-cola. Thats all im going to say because i dont use Rotella-T. Its good as any other oil your going to use its up to you to change it regurlarly and take care of your engine.

I try really hard to give the right info when you need it but id rather make people laugh. Their aint enough laughter in this world.

2009 Raptor 700R SE - Mods: Runkind light covers and speed limiter blue wire cut

Can now provide most manuals for most makes and models and years. Send me an email at [email protected] BE SPECIFIC: YEAR/MAKE/MODEL add Hiya Frenchie in your email so i know your from this forum. My manuals galore thread https://www.raptorforum.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=95852
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post #25 of 59 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by fast frenchie canada View Post
Alot use it without any problem. Im sold on my 2 quarts of synthetic blend for sport atv. Hey oil is oil. Its alot like pepsi and coca-cola. Thats all im going to say because i dont use Rotella-T. Its good as any other oil your going to use its up to you to change it regurlarly and take care of your engine.
Yup, couldn't agree more about the maintenance thing. That's why I figure changing more often is better, especially since you can detect if something has gone wrong more readily with frequent changes....thus the cheaper Rotella. What I CAN say though, is that after a 3 day dune trip and two 3 hour XC rides the Rotella still came back out significantly more golden than any expensive thumper oil I've ever used....go figure....

Last edited by rappypappy414; 02-24-2011 at 08:30 PM.
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post #26 of 59 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 06:59 AM
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OIL synth or dino will always be a choice your going to make on your own. You can get people to say this and that about this and that oil. Comes down to you and your wallet. Ok ok so synth is better than regular dino oil. But i wont go in the brand debate no f-ing way. On a lighter side i choose my oil by taste and the nice colours on the bottles its alot easier LMAO.

I try really hard to give the right info when you need it but id rather make people laugh. Their aint enough laughter in this world.

2009 Raptor 700R SE - Mods: Runkind light covers and speed limiter blue wire cut

Can now provide most manuals for most makes and models and years. Send me an email at [email protected] BE SPECIFIC: YEAR/MAKE/MODEL add Hiya Frenchie in your email so i know your from this forum. My manuals galore thread https://www.raptorforum.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=95852
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post #27 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by fast frenchie canada View Post
OIL synth or dino will always be a choice your going to make on your own. You can get people to say this and that about this and that oil. Comes down to you and your wallet. Ok ok so synth is better than regular dino oil. But i wont go in the brand debate no f-ing way. On a lighter side i choose my oil by taste and the nice colours on the bottles its alot easier LMAO.
agreed!! oil is oil if you maintain your bike right. now i won't get the complete generic shtuff that comes in a red bottle with black label that says "Motor Oil" but i don't buy the expensive stuff either. i usually just buy any synthetic wet clutch oil that is cheap and has some kind of name i can get when i want to change my oil at whatever place is open at the time.

and when your taste testing your oil frenchie, do they let you put it back on the shelf after you stick your finger in it? jk

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post #28 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 07:16 AM
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and when your taste testing your oil frenchie, do they let you put it back on the shelf after you stick your finger in it? jk
If they dont catch me yes! LMAO. And if they do i just poor it on the floor and run like hell LOL...

I try really hard to give the right info when you need it but id rather make people laugh. Their aint enough laughter in this world.

2009 Raptor 700R SE - Mods: Runkind light covers and speed limiter blue wire cut

Can now provide most manuals for most makes and models and years. Send me an email at [email protected] BE SPECIFIC: YEAR/MAKE/MODEL add Hiya Frenchie in your email so i know your from this forum. My manuals galore thread https://www.raptorforum.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=95852
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post #29 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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I just got my Raptor and the oil & filter to change the oil so this thread caught my attention. I read the manual a few times and it never does "clearly" say to pour oil directly into the crankcase.

The two are called Engine oil filler cap (The one with the dipstick) and Crankcase engine oil filler cap.
But I do notice they vary a little on the exact wording at times if you you read the steps carefully. So that may be where the confusion is.

12) Install the engine oil filler cap, and the tighten it to the specified torque.
(Notice it didn't say Crankcase engine oil filler cap)

13) It states "Pour only 1.37US qt of the specified amount of the recommended engine oil through the engine oil tank filler hole"
(Now since the tank is referenced it must mean the one with the dipstick attached)
Notice it says ENGINE oil filler cap, the oil tank isn't the engine, and that's the only other filler cap. The crankcase is part of the engine, in fact it's the base of it. I think you're getting hung up on semantics.

Notice how in 13 they reference the "engine oil TANK"? There would be no reason to reference the tank part of that unless the step in #12 was different.

The manual does it's best to be clear but sometimes people need pictures to help them understand or to verify what they're reading. That's what this thread is for, clarification.

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Last edited by Mad Dog; 03-07-2011 at 08:16 AM.
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post #30 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 03:49 PM
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Notice it says ENGINE oil filler cap, the oil tank isn't the engine, and that's the only other filler cap. The crankcase is part of the engine, in fact it's the base of it. I think you're getting hung up on semantics.

Notice how in 13 they reference the "engine oil TANK"? There would be no reason to reference the tank part of that unless the step in #12 was different.

The manual does it's best to be clear but sometimes people need pictures to help them understand or to verify what they're reading. That's what this thread is for, clarification.
Hey Mad Dog, Your method is the best way and I did it that way when I changed the oil and it worked great.
My point above was just to show/highlight 1) how the 2007 Manual isn't consistent with its wording and 2) it also does not have you pour oil directly into the crankcase which I think it should. Maybe later year manuals are written that way.

It has you remove the crankcase plug in an earlier step to vent the draining oil and then they want you to reinstall it (step 12) and "torque" to the specified rating before you start to put oil into the quad (step 13) by adding to just the tank.

As for symatics, I work in a "high tech" industry and have to read and sometimes correct technical manuals and procedures everyday for my job so the wording is very important to me on most procedures as it can mean the difference between a successful repair and a happy customer or very expensive damage and an irrate customer!

2007 Yamaha Raptor 2/8/2011-
Amsoil Synthetic Oil
GYTR Sport Bar, Engine/Frame Skid, Swing Arm Skid
Dr. D Reverse, Voyager Trail Tech, Houser Nerf Bars

2019 Grizzly 700 Camo EPS
2018 CFMoto CForce 500s
1987 Yamaha Warrior (1986-1989) Was heavily Modified.
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